In the 80s there used to be a yearly machine knitting seminar that was fairly well attended. There were droves of machine knitting publications. Susan Lazear, founder of Cochenille, was just beginning to develop her knit design software ideas on the Amiga Computers, and a fellow Californian, who happened to be Japanese, used to travel here with he Pandora box of foreign knit magazines. At the time translating knits from one language to another amounted to guess work and some leaflets. Subsequently there were fliers, then articles, and even books on translating from Japanese to English and one on multiple language translations for knits and crochet.
One year there was a “guess how this was done and you get a prize contest” for a technique appearing on a sweater with only Japanese instructions. The design was dubbed wisteria by some, has been reincarnated as a trim, insertion, bandings on sleeves and cardigans and is beginning to reappear in magazines now again.
Here is one method for this “horizontal cable” created by short rowing across the width of the fabric. Brother machine needles are A,B, D, E and a lever sets KH for holding in both directions Studio positions follow the alphabet, and use russel levers on each side must be set for holding. Directions below are for Brother.
Reminder: when the machine is set for holding the needles in B or D positon knit, needles pushed out to E will not knit. Weight is used as needed, watch for dropped stitches particularly along the edges of the sections as the rows of knitting are built up.
1.cast on the desired number of stitches, knit several rows at garment tension, end COR (Carriage on Right)
2.COR, set the carriage not to knit needles in HP (hold position)
3.leave 6 needles at the right of knitting in WP (work position), push remaining needles out to HP (hold position)
4.knit 10 rows over the 6 stitches, ending COR
5.push back 3 needles to D position at the LEFT of the 6 needles now in WP
6.knit one row from right to left (9 needles in WP) end COL (carriage on left). Push the needles now in WP on the far right to HP; 6 needles will remain in WP
7.knit 9 rows on these 6 needles, end COR
8.repeat steps 5 through 7 across the fabric row until the last 6 needles remain. Knit 10 rows over these last 6 needles, end COL
9.set the machine to knit needles in hold (holding lever to N), knit 2 or desired number of rows across all the needles
10.holding lever on H. Repeat the procedure from left to right, reversing the sequence.
If the sequence is not reversed a bias fabric will be created. For maximum texture use a yarn with memory ie. wool. Anything that can be “killed” by pressure or ironing will flatten considerably and yield a very different fabric.
My demo samples were made out of colors that would make them easy to find, unlikely to get “permanently borrowed”, so none of these were studies for actual finished garments
this swatch combines a boucle and a rayon; the latter has become flattened over time
this is a wool rayon, knitting is not reversed, resulting in biasing
these samples show same technique, applied to much larger groups of stitches
a segment of a magazine recent garment photo, no origin given as to source, appears to use the above technique
online source for patterns using this technique
more cable like/structures/textures