Doilies: Lace meets hold and goes round

 This post was written originally in 2011, in one of my lace “phases”, with test swatches knit on a 910 using a mylar sheet or on my 892E Andare Brother punchcard machine. Early on many of the posts were used to record what I had made, sometimes providing the repeats, but not usually step by step instructions. The shares were intended for anyone with previous experience who might want to create their own version of such fabrics. Now in 2020, my swatches are usually knit with download cables img2track on a 930 or less requently on a 910 using ayab, via an iMac. In revisiting those early posts I sometimes find myself wondering about the content and how their fabrics were achieved. I tried to respect copyrights. Since then many publications are now downloadable for free online, I later began to include information from them, and when possible, links to the source.

There is an excellent online resource for the Bond Machine. Techniques are applicable to other KM models for those who enjoy hand techniques. The round lace tablecloth series provides a number of “doily” charts.
Slip setting in both cam buttons is used on the KH for automatic shaping: end needle selection is canceled. It is critical that carriages be off the machine and on the lace extension rails while the alternate carriage is in use as they both engage the timing belt. The latter can be broken if pulled in opposing directions at the same time.
Comparing a pattern on 2 machines: one of the critical differences when using 2 carriages to select patterns, is that on electronic machines such as the 910 each carriage pass advances the design repeat one row. With Brother punchcards, the first pass of the second carriage does not advance the card as it makes its first “trip” from the opposite side, the previous preselection and function are repeated.
Back in 2002 exchanges with a fellow member of an Australian Yahoo Group, OzMKers led to her final edit of the punchcard repeat resulting in the half actual card shown below.
When operating the lace carriage on a punchcard machine, one of the critical differences is that the preselection row from left to right made with the lace carriage is performed with the punchcard not locked as usual, but rather, set to advance normally. From The doily will need to be seamed when completed. Taking that into account, at least one row is knit with “doily” yarn from left to right after several rows are knit in waste yarn before the transfers to create open stitches are begun. Whether joining by rehanging and binding off on the machine or grafting (the method I prefer) with the work off the machine after several rows of waste yarn and dropping it off the KM upon completion of the required segments becomes a personal choice.

Begin with the LC on the left, end needle selection set All transfers are in the same direction, to the right
24 stitch sample, knit in cotton yarn. The center of the circle needs to be managed as opposed to simply gathering it in order to keep the finished shape flat.

In reviewing the repeat on the punchcard in 2020, these were my observations as to the actions of the carriages. It is possible for the lace carriage to transfer while at the same time preselecting every needle to be knit by the next pass of the knit carriage from the opposite side. In order to get the repeat working properly, I found I needed to edit out one of the punched holes at the start of each repeat, revised card the original and the amended start of each segment are shown below, I skipped the extra knit rows numbered 21-23 on the punchcard with the intention of eliminating extra knit rows at the very center, making the circumference at the closure of the doily smaller  If drawing on the back of mylar for use on the 910, either image may be drawn as is, but used with the number 1 pattern case “A” reverse lever to up position. Repeat design principles are shared in creating edgings, ruffles, and more.
The amended 24 stitch repeat with all transfers to the right knit on the 930 after a few rows misstart. The end needle selection on the 910 LC for the pattern to work properly with the carriage in use In turn, this repeat as is was used in 2020 for a pattern test on my 930 for all transfers to the left  When downloading from computers, the software may require mirroring as well. There are other differences in the repeats and their use.
The preselection row is from right to left, using the knit carriage (KC). When the left side is reached, the KC is set to slip in both directions. The first knit design row is executed from left to right. Each carriage makes 2 passes, both advance the repeat one row with each one of their passes. The lace carriage preselects for transfers from left to right, transfers to left, and preselects for the next knit row as it returns to the left and onto its rail.

A 40 stitch adaptation from the Bond site to try A 60 stitch repeat also inspired by the Bond post knit on the 910 using a mylar. Gauge still matters, more than the recommended 16 sections to form a full circle would be required using this particular yarn  In the post on lace edgings automated with slip stitch on Brother machines written in 2020, I shared a modified version of a punchcard published by Susanna Lewis in “A Machine Knitter’s Guide to Creating Fabrics” (1981), the ultimate resource for punchcard knitting for knitters with any amount of experience. The chart on p 223 was modified by me since I like to start my lace edgings on the widest number of stitches in the pattern. The result is shown on the left below, after being reorganized to start on the full 24 stitch width. On the right, rows of black pixels are added, for a version of the full repeat to be used on electronic machines. The slip stitches here are used for knit rows that are shaped by increases and decreases to alter the outside edge of the trim. The design resulting from the transfers also varies, and the transfers change the order of their direction as the outside edge does. In the “doilies” the number of needles in work remains constant, slip stitch becomes a substitute for holding, transfers are all in the same direction.

I am planning a subsequent post on converting automated lace edging charts for use to create circular “doilies”

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