A review of brioche patterning

Nearing the end of another year, reviewing previous drafts, I find myself coming across posts that were never quite completed or published.
This content began to be brought together in 2022.

The term brioche in knitting is used loosely at times in any references to tuck stitches.  Designs may be worked in single colors, or with more complicated planning, they may be executed in 2 colors.
Some patterns are fully automated, with the knit carriage set to tuck in both directions, the ribber set to knit in both, others are worked as a tubular tuck, and lastly, some require frequent changes in cam settings in either or both beds.
My explorations for the use of tuck stitch settings in double bed every needle rib fabrics began with attempting to create a solid color shape on a vertically striped ground in Geometric shapes on ribber fabrics with tuck stitches 1.
The arrow marks the spot where both colors used were picked up from the changer. C1 and 2 show indicate cam setting changes used in the last part of the swatch.
Here, a simple shape was programmed, and varied carriage settings on either or both beds were explored Geometric shapes on ribber fabrics with tuck stitches 2; knitting with 4 carriages. Geometric shapes on ribber fabrics with tuck stitches 3  explores self-drawn repeats in multiple colors. Added samples and files in the subsequent post New double bed swatches based on published sources of inspiration 2
Lace transfers meet fisherman rib in 2 colors on Brother KM 1
Lace transfers meet fisherman rib, 2 color ribbed brioche on Brother machines 2 These are advanced, complex fabrics. The repeats for 2 colors can grow exponentially in length.
Returning to designing suitable repeats, beginning in a spreadsheet: grey vertical lines represent stitches on the ribber, which will force apart stitches created on the top bed, creating the more familiar tuck rib surface. Mac Numbers offers the opportunity to hide both columns and rows. In this instance, with the 10 grey columns hidden, one begins to get the sense of shapes and movements needed on the top bed   Working toward a repeat for knitting the shapes in a single color, imagining the location of eyelets resulting from stitch transfers, I used two repeats, adjusting the first repeat to vary the resulting shape slightly A 11X30 repeat mirrored horizontally for use on my 930, tiled twice horizontally before programming and downloading, used as a 23X30 single motif to obtain a matching border on each side, A 9X28 repeat, my second try, programmed as a 20X28 single motif, When knitting using only one color, the machine is set with the main bed tucking on every needle in one direction, followed by knitting on every needle as it returns to the starting side, the ribber does the same but in the opposite direction. It is a circular tuck, also referred to as fisherman’s rib. A slight shift in patterning may change the outline of the desired shape, introducing or removing stray lines or secondary shapes.
The possible cam setting options: In two-color brioche combined with hand-transferred stitches, the main bed is set to tuck in both directions, white cells tuck, black cells knit.
Brother machines preselect needles for the next row with each pass of the carriage, so on even-numbered design rows, as the carriage moves to the opposite side, all needles will form tuck loops on the main bed. The next row will be preselected, with some needles now back in B rather than D position.
With an appropriate transfer tool, move the stitches on the nonselected needles to the adjacent selected needle to their right after pushing it back to the B position. After each transfer, push all worked needles and their stitches, as well as the now-empty needle, to the E position.
As the carriage returns to the opposite side, an all-knit row will be completed. Several tension adjustments may be needed to ensure loops do not get hung up on gate pegs as stitches move across the bed, while still being loose enough to knit off properly.

Planning a fully automated design, reducing the ground, and staggering the color of the shapes. In these knits, the colors in the background form clear vertical lines:
24X44
brick repeat 24X88tiled.

A half-drop tiling error was revealed,  and the file was reduced to 23X44. The half drop repeat 46X44 Using the 24 stitch repeat executable on a punchcard machine as well, planning to knit the test swatch on 72 stitches, anticipating what will happen with color of the alternating pairs of rows forming the shapes, noting that the total number of rows is an odd multiple of 4:adjusting the repeat to 48X40with the total rows an even multiple of 4, tiling check, 72X80the stitches composing the all the shapes will knit in the same color The pattern, tested in thin yarns reveals the stitch structure even more. That said, the dark color was 2 thin yarns threaded on the same side of the mast. At one point, one of the 2 began to loop around needles, causing a carriage jam and a bent needle hook, hence the short height of the sample. Passap to Brother 6, exploring a possible tuck stitch design
More shapes on ribber fabrics with tuck patterning, fantasy fair isle

More designs worked on the double bed using tuck cam settings on either or both beds:
Ribber fabrics with main bed tuck patterning 1/ pick rib 
Fisherman and English tuck stitch rib 1_ checks patterns_ Brother, Passap

New double bed swatches based on published sources of inspiration 2

Published a few months ago: New double bed swatches based on published sources of inspiration

At year’s end, I commonly find myself reviewing earlier blog posts and am drawn to testing previously developed repeats in new or different ways.

Many publications, whether for electronic machines or punchcard models, group patterns in separate categories, not offering many clues as to whether each design may be used for other knit structures.
Some punchcard manuals do offer a page with limited guidance, such as this in the 860 manual. Truchet tiling design inspiration 1 and Truchet/Smith inspired designs 2 meet ArahPaint, introduced resources and methods for developing DIY knittable designs inspired by them.
Blistered DBJ 2 and technique variations on a single repeat. used this tiling in several ways, followed up on the previous post, Blistered stitches DBJ
Revisiting both posts, developing some new pattern variations.
The starting repeat, 74X74, drawn in repeat to test tiling alignment, 148X148ArahPaint, Tools > Layer -> Brush saved the 74X74 picture is loaded
the white palette color is locked with filled rectangle, using the brush and bucket fill on whole image, the new 74X74 file was test knit on the 930, which automatically mirrors the image horizontally,  centered on 60 stitches.
End needle selection on the knit carriage was canceled.
The slip setting in both directions was selected after the first preselection row.
First and last needles were in work on the ribber, with the carriage set to N.
If large groups of stitches were not selected on the sides, an end stitch was brought out to E manually before knitting the next row.
Slipped stitches elongate, as seen in the image on the right. The elongated X2 design did not work on the Brother,  with too many rows knitting only on one bed; they start jumping off, and the length of the slipped stitches is a potential added problem, with too many rows knitting only on one bed, they will start jumping off and the length of the slipped stitches are potential added problems.
Blistered DBJ 3 began with a punchcard design untested at the time, modified for use in knitting a patterned half fisherman rib,  24X112. The knit carriage is set to tuck in both directions, the ribber carriage to knit in both. The resulting knit has subtle textures on both sides, lies flat. Related stitch structures and samples in Geometric shapes on ribber fabrics formed with tuck stitches 4
The same design, 24X112, color inverted, has applications as well, among them, pile knitting, best knit on Studio machines, and single color drop stitch lace.
The first of several blog posts on the technique, Geometric shapes in drop stitch lace 1, Brother KM.
To knit, cast on EON, transfer all knit bed stitches to the ribber, except for the first and last.
Cancel end needle selection.
On rows where no needles are selected, drop the stitches formed on the main bed. Return all the same needles to the B position, checking that no extra needles are accidentally pushed in or out of work.
The knit grows quickly. The yarn used is a 2/10 W/LYO, a wool and lyocell blend. Lyocell is a versatile, semi-synthetic fiber made from wood pulp, particularly eucalyptus trees, and was originally trademarked as Tencel in 1992.
A thinner yarn would highlight the open areas more.
The swatch, knit on 48 stitches for 90 rows of the pattern, measures 9 X 11.75 inches.
Returning to the inspiration, 24X32
using double height, 24X64 color invert every other row, double height, 24X128
renders the color separation that, when knit as DBJ, produces the elongated design version where each color in each design row knits twice.
Preselection for the first row is from the right. Using the tubular tuck setting, either pair of opposite cams, the result is evocative of illusion knits; the texture is more 3D than in the images. There are distinct changes in appearance if one is willing to invest in manually changing cam settings as often as every two rows.
The latter is more feasible using two pairs of carriages operating from opposite sides.
The knit is compressed in height and quite wide, with 48 stitches and 150 rows of pattern measuring 14.75X8.25 inches.

More to explore:
Tuck stitch meets thread lace repeats and vice versa 
Using punchcards (3) or electronics to track small cables in pattern
Using  punchcards to track cables and twists in pattern 2
Unconventional uses for punchcards 1: tracking racking positions in ribbed fabric Unconventional uses for punchcards 2: thread lace cards for “filet” mesh

Using punchcards to track small cables in pattern (1) 
Punch cards to electronics: book symbols and samples 12/17

An army of frogs, some DBJ tips

A tale of crustaceans and critters ,
introduced an army of frogs that began with a border chart  the 27X83 PNG  

in half drop, 81X83

There is often a resistance to swatching. One of the benefits of large enough tests, even when gauge is not a factor, is to find that, as in this case, color separated for DBJ, knit in birdseye backing, well, look at this!

The color reversal seen at the top of the repeat, as return is made to the first row of the design, can be caused by making an error in changing colors appropriately. There is no evidence of that on the reverse; striping would be wider in areas where either color was carried for 4 rows.
If the planned design is to be used as a continuous pattern, with a return to row 1 after reaching its top, when knitting DBJ, the designs must be an even number of rows in height to start with. 
Tools or built-in functions that automate conversions do not always provide error warnings.
Another go at the frogs: 27X84
in half drop, 54X84
The GIMP script color separation, 54X168Color, and technique choices, and whether they are deemed successful or not, are determined by personal preference. Here, a space dyed thin cotton was plied with a white yarn as the light color.
The frog at the top of the repeat is no longer beheaded.
There is a snag around that area, however, that causes slight distortion, noticeable on both sides. Some notes on machine knitting color changers review their use.
The snags in the swatch were from the space dyed yarn getting picked up with the green/ dark ground.
That can happen from the ribber arm needing a minor adjustment, not clearing the color changer far enough (there is an audible click at that time), or, in this case, the thin yarn was snagging around the guide for the adjacent #2 dark color and getting picked up with it. Historical blog posts on DBJ can be found in the blog index
Keeping machines clean and oiled, along with balancing the ribber, aids in error-free stitch formation.
Always something new to learn, lili buttons will not rotate if the carriage is set with the slip levers in the up position.

 

More play with triangles

This post adds to my design repeat collections. Most of the files provided are intended as inspiration for DIY.
From Truchet/Smith inspired designs 2 meet ArahPaint
Quilters are familiar with block designs easily found in print and online that technically may be broken down into triangular blocks joined and meeting to form sharp points. Truchet, in his publication, used half-square triangles and assigned letters to the segments,   and a PNG to explore,   that when magnified shows the inevitable doubling of some same color pixels side by side or in sequential rows when drawing in random repeats; it becomes unavoidable. A DBJ test knit
Exploring how shapes meet and can be combined to make new shapes: this is a 12X10 file, shown in repeat,

and in multiple colors  makes it easier to identify intersections and secondary shapes

A 12X12 start,with added colors  

tiled in an adjusted colorway

18X1824X24different palette tilingBW versionWhen you want to knit no more than 2 colors per row, and large repeats with open spaces are appealing, in this 38X18 file, some same color pixels touching soon become evident, in progress 57X5857X58 BW.

Triangles and blocks forming broken ribbons, 36X34Tired of horizontal and vertical  movement, returning to diagonals, recognizing component shapes with clean edges ,

BW 16X48

knit as single bed fair isleIf broken shape edges are OK, this 24X48 repeat with underlying 8X8 blocks, is usable in punchcard models. Triangles are broken along the diagonal  solid lines.In electronic machines without the capacity of knit from screen or added storage, non repetitive image PNGs may need to be programmed in sequential segments.
When producing items such as scarves, there is an opportunity to play with extending the idea further.
Wolfram world is an online reference explaining the rules for building automata.
Cellular automata charts for knitting, etc. was written by me at a time when I produced a series of pieces inspired by their patterning such as this, knit on the Brother 930, with images of earlier automata samples knit on my E6000 shared in My new knitting projects

Triangles can be easily recognized forms when testing designing and related techniques and how textures and aspect scale can vary in machine knitting.
From Geometric shapes on ribber fabrics with tuck stitches 2; knitting with 4 carriagesTranslating Passap model book pattern/use on Brother 1
Early posts:
A simple shape, an exercise in DBJ, Brother KM
Double jacquard using punchcard machines

 

Modified hexagons meet stars

This site is maintained as a living document, retaining starting points for ideas followed by their proofs of concept and evolution over time.
The following links share historical references to my descriptions of using miters and spirals in shaping knits.
My earlier posts tended to be brief; the first in the series below dates back to more than a decade ago.
Miters and spirals: visualizing, charting (and more) 1
Miters and spirals: visualizing, charting (and more) 2
Miters and spirals: visualizing, charting (and more) 3
From Revisiting miters, spirals, going square, round, and more
For miter with shaping and resulting eyelets at the center of the triangle: begin with all knit row(s) (red line) at the start.
To shape a full wedge: *green segment is worked, bringing stitches into hold opposite the carriage at the determined rate until all the needles are in hold. Shaping is next reversed with the yellow segment, pushing needles back at the determined rate until all needles are returned to work.
End with all knit row(s) (red line) *. The sides of this miter are all knit rows, an easier place to seam/ graft joins if needed.
Shaping with resulting eyelets at the center of the triangle: the final shape working with starts with COR (Carriage On the Right).eyelet at center2The knitting sequences for when shaping from the left and from the right. final at centerIf the color changer comes into play, then the design repeats, and their starting sides may need to be adjusted accordingly.
Pursuing the six-pointed star/ snowflake challenge, the first test in this series was executed with hand selection, and the knit carriage set for hold.
To get points, not curves, sequential miter shapes are used, and for the easiest counting of segments and seaming/ grafting at the end of each piece, the eyelets are planned to occur at the center of each miter and are retained as design features.
In the photograph:
1: 2/8 wool, random color, casually planned holding sequences2: using the formula for hexagons planning for 4 stitches being held every six rows, using a 1, 1, 2 sequence The repeat, 14X38, as a BW PNG planned for use with the knit carriage set to slip in both directions to knit on the 930 as it is drawn, it needs to be reversed The first preselection row is made from right to left, picking up the yarn for the star on the left, knitting the first row back to the right, and then repeating selections for pairs of rows until the last segment has been knit, ending with one last row knit across all the stitches.
On punchcard machines the shapes are punched as provided, consider that the punched holes in the card represent what happens on the purl side, and is automatically reversed. One way to correct for that is to insert the card flipped over, thus losing numbering sequences in many cases, or to mark up and punch the card on its back side,  then insert it in the usual orientation when ready to knit.
Punching need not be centered, air knit to double check proper needle placement for the first all knit row.
On any machine, end needle selection is canceled.
3: when you don’t have enough light on to notice the yarn you you just pulled from the yarn mast you are about to use is not the same, even in color, as you plan a slightly smaller repeat, the repeat is 12X34

Visualizing some of the differences in shaping between the 2 sizes
4: the same repeat, trying out a softly spun rayon to perhaps render a flatter item, it measures 6 inches across the diagonals. A tempting cone of an unknown fiber spun combined with a strand of sparkly  led to one last try with the 14 stitch design repeat, the result measures seven inches along its diagonals. The swatch was folded, steamed, and lightly pressed on the knit side along eyelets, measures 7 inches on its diagonal.
The center hole is inevitable in these techniques.With practice gathering to close it can be improved, here it is performed casually.How small can one pursue the shape? 10X18
The result diagonals measure 2.75 inches. The best intentions for grafting the join were met with tiny stitches and stiff yarn not wanting any part of it, so the closure was with a latch tool again.
If the latch tool bind off is used, the work can be removed and turned over to have it appear on the purl face rather than the knt.
Groups of swatches may be layered, exploring their relationships in different ways.
Increasing the number of rows at the center edge of each segment repeat may create a sharper point.
More seaming ideas including including grafting on both the knit or the purl side in  Seaming, joining, picking up stitches on knits 1 .
There are always beads or crochet edgings to ponder adding, then deciding when more is less.
Stiffening knits for sculptural effects can be achieved using any mixtures described as suitable for stiffening crochet doilies. Video and written directions are easy to find online.
The formulas include mixtures using:
sugar, 2 parts sugar to 1 water
white glue, 1 part glue to 1 part water
commercial products such as Mod Podge Stiffy and Aleen’s Stiffen Quick.
A fellow student back in my textile degree days wove yardage for a tryptic that was intended to be displayed on a wall, was draped over life size forms after being dipped in wall paper glue as stiffener, something that worked well, though it was summer and fans were used to speed up drying. Not sure if at the time that was a necessity or out of need for meeting a critique deadline.
If symmetry matters for flat images consider a template drawn on a non permeable surface and patting the item in place.
Felting yields stiffening of a different sort.
As for stiffening felt itself, acrylic medium mixed with water, gelatin sizing used in millinery, PVA glue, and a range of bad for your lungs or melt in the rain concoctions have been mentioned, and then there is the simple, “beat it vigorously” approach, which may not be the best for retaining 3D or sculptural forms.
There are always more rabbit holes to explore.

Color separations meet Gimp rows color invert and custom scripts

This will be another work-in-progress post, a rough draft.
It is released early and will receive frequent edits and additions.
I have just begun to exchange information with two individuals, with the intended possible outcome resulting in providing Vibe coded scripts for GIMP or free online generators to automate the desired separations.
“Vibe codingis an approach where an AI generates code from natural language prompts.

The goal is to include and consider punchcard machine users, meeting the limitations of stitch width where motifs must fit together within the 24-stitch limit, so individually they must be composed of factors of that number: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, and 24.
Each card height, to feed properly,  requires a minimum of 36 rows punched for continuous designs. Cards not on rolls are a standard 60 rows in height, multiple cards may be joined together if needed.
Needle selection is centered and fixed on the needle bed.
Added info is found in  Brother KMs: punchcards and their use.

I learned about machine knitting from what others presented during international and local seminars at the height of the craft, or published in magazines and hardbound editions. Stitch Painter with BitKnitter and DAK were at their inception.
Susanna Lewis has always been a personal favorite and a huge influence.
As time went on, I became interested in processing much larger files using whatever tools I became aware of in image processing or paint programs to generate patterns for producing the fabric I wanted to knit.
As a machine knitter, any charts or files I shared often began with numbering on the right and from the bottom up in Excel.
Row numbering on the right was a convention in blank punchcards and published charts; transfer lace passes added numbers and symbols on the left.
An added consideration in charting: while in 2-needle hand knitting, the work is turned over upon completion of each row, so charts are read in turn from the right and then from the left when purl rows are included in the chart. Knitting on the machine is fixed unless there is hand manipulation, ie, with a garter bar, and the knitter’s view is only of the purl side. In automated punched or downloadable patterns, every row is commonly represented, including punched holes with blank squares or black and white pixels.
Electronic models have a double-height button; in punchcard models, the card lock lever can be pushed back to the long triangle position.
I avoid elongation in long pieces, finding it easier to track unraveled rows to return to the proper program row and color when any errors or stitch mishaps occur.
Although the majority of my designing is now using ArahPaint, Gimp became my early go-to as a companion to spreadsheet programs, first Excel, then Mac Numbers.
Presently I have returned to using Gimp 2.10, finding the later 2 updates unpredictable when working with 8-bit images.
There are added baseline considerations in color separations, for example, the initial file must contain an even number of rows.
Experiments are beginning with black and white indexed images, and the goal is to conclude the process with PNGs in that same mode.

Mosaic color separations are different from those for DBJ.
The knit, also known as floatless fair isle to machine knitters, aims to have floats usually no wider than 2 stitches and for only one color, as opposed to 2 with each pass of the carriage in fair isle.
It is executed with color changes every two rows and cam buttons set to the tuck or slip stitch setting in both directions.
Two classic references: hand knitting for 24 and 40 stitch machines. In mosaics and maze conversion, the original file is not rendered double height before being separated. In other knit structures, the original file is commonly doubled in height before the separation, solving by default the even # row requirement.
Aside from the automatic color separation and what comprises the original file input, ie, indexed BW mode and even number of rows, depending on the manual separation the actual file on completion of the separation may need to be altered again before knitting, doubled in height.
The last double height can be achieved by altering the separated PNG before downloading it to electronic models. Symbols for that vary depending on machine or model year, in this case, 910 houses and trees, #4The 950i  uses ships, but the button placements are in the same positions, and perform the same tasks; or the placement of the card lock lever in punchcard machines I prefer punching or programming repeats that do not require the built in elongation selections. Returning to specific rows after interruptions in knitting or correcting patterning errors during it are easier to track.
Whether the color separations are performed manually or with automated tools, the pre-requirement is that the input file aligns properly when tiled. Often published designs have added rows that will double when drawn in repeat, solved by cropping rows at the top and at one side, addressed in other blogposts.

Using Gimp color invert.
A starting file,  used repeatedly in previous posts on mosaic knitting, 12X18.A brief review of DIY steps involved, taken for granted when performed unseen by software, follows.
The expected results can be visualized by tiling the repeat in Gimp using Filters> Map> Tile, and entering a multiple of the design, accepting the default ratio 120X180, or breaking the chain and entering a second number, ie, 126. The view of a magnified segment.  When working with Gimp, rectangle select, the aspect ratio can be set to the width of the repeat, 12, and 1 for the height of the selection.
Hold down the shift key to process the whole image beginning at the top left and continuing on every odd-numbered row.
The handles and dotted lines appear as one moves down toward the bottom. If a selection error is made moving down, while still pressing on the shift key, select edit, undo to remove the selection. The reversal takes place with choosing Colors > Invert only on selected rows after release of the shift key. With every other odd-numbered row selected and inverted,  the 3 images on the left show the separation, the last on the right shows the separated file scaled to double height, which is actually needed to knit the mosaic successfully. When selectively scaling, ie, only for height, check that the chain is broken, and interpolation is selected/ changed to None. The change can be made permanent by altering the Tool Options default interpolation in program settings. The 12X36 file is ready to knit and is also shared in repeat. The first preselection row is from right to left, and the color changer.

This repeat for a larger design, 38X34was separated using the custom filter with the knit-ready result, 38X68 obtained in a single step

A design that combines the mosaic grid work with the straight horizontal design found in mazes began with a 26X26 repeat, followed by rotations and additions of a 26X20 partial repeat   resulted in a 66X24 PNG   that when viewed tiled on the screen looked OK   the single repeat separated using the script,66X48, was swatch using the slip stitch setting.

Both tuck and slip shorten the end knit along the all knit stitches aside them, which in this case form wide horizontal stripes. Those stripes in turn become distorted, seen here at the top and bottom of the swatch; the degree of 3D effect depends on the ratio of slip or tuck counts to knit stitches.
The repeat adjusted to a slightly different alignment if I were to personally use it in a final piece, 66X26, separated to 66X52The question then becomes whether more is less.
The original 26X26 design, separated to 26X52, shown drawn in repeat X3, 78X52, was test knit using the tuck setting. The yarns used are Silk City wool crepe purchased as seasonal remnants decades ago. Its fiber content is typically 80% wool and 20% manufactured fiber like rayon or viscose. The surface of the swatch is far more 3D than the its slip stitch relative.

 

DOUBLE JACQUARD
The abridged view of the same steps in the separation for knitting the original 12X18 row design as DBJ, where each color in each design row knits twice.  The final file is composed of pairs of identical rows.
The process begins with the original image doubled in height, in this instance,  to 12X36.  Every alternate row is color-inverted, and then doubled in height for knitting to 12X72

12X72The first preselection row is from right to left, toward the color changer in Japanese KM models.
Because each color in each design row knits twice, the design is very elongated, even when knit with birdseye backing. The random color choice was not the best in the related sample. If the goal then becomes to have each color knit only once to reduce aspect ratio distortion, or if other knit stitch structures and combinations are planned, additional processing is required.
For strictly 2-color knitting, with BW starting images, electronic knitting machines automate each pixelated BW row for knitting each color only once per row with the flick of a button, generally labeled KRC.
The starting side for the preselection row is from left to right.
The 2 rows for the first color are split between the top and bottom of the programmed repeat.
The actions performed automatically: In the post ArahPaint in knit design 6: color separation,  this suggested method proved faulty when tested here. The result shows the dramatic difference in scale when each color in each row knits only once, but there are noticeable white stitches that are breaking vertical red lines, not intended and not the result of a programming error. Analyzing the result: the first and last row of the design are unaffected by the separation, and when knitting lengths, that same design row will repeat twice.
This proposed method shifts the first design row to the top, maintaining the 12X36 dimensions is then color-inverted, rendering a 12X36 file that is ready to knit. The first preselection row is from right to left toward the color changer.
regrouping, 12X36 with the bottom row shifted to top the separation, also 12X36The steps in the separation
1: the original image, 12X18
2: the original doubled in height, 12X36
3: move the bottom row to the top of the repeat, still 12X36
4: as an optional guide, a column was added on the right, increasing the width to 13 pixels, marking pairs of rows to be inverted. The added pixels were originally red, when color invert was used, they were also converted to blue pixels
5: number 4 with the blue and white pixel column removed, the ready to knit repeat, also 12X36. The swatch is knit using birdseye backing, an added technique which helps to maintain the aspect ratio of the original design.
The visible extra white loops on the side are due to yarn feeds in mast issues that have gotten added to my list of “well, I have not run into this before!”  

Duplicating the KRC model, with added changes but same result:
the hand selection method to illustrate the color invert steps, from left to right: the 8X8 PNG start,
rendered double height to 8X16,
with the bottom row moved to the top,
the separation illustrated with marks for the placement the inverted rows in blue,
and the knittable final repeat, 8X16Sample color separated using a Vibe-Coded script to obtained the 8X16 result:
the goal is to knit each color in each design row only once, matching the electronic automated electronic KRC selection, with a critical difference, the preselection row is from the right, followed by color changes every 2 rows.Testing a larger design repeat, 43X44color separated to 43X88knit with birdseye backing with preselection start from the right

More to ponder: the method used to have each design row knit twice produces files that can be altered again in double bed work for other stitch structures, or used as they are in single bed slip stitch that knits carrying one color at a time for 2 rows.

Reviewing charts for different separations, including use of more than 2 colors: depending on the published source, sometimes letters are assigned, others numbers, and they sometimes differ in identification sequences.
Continuing with Double bed separations, the longest to execute manually, while considering different stitch structures:

 

Swatches > seasonal knits 2025

Some repeats are immediately identifiable as not suitable for fair isle knitting due to the length of some of the floats.
Any of the PNGs in the blog can be enlarged to check on any areas with more than 5 black or white pixels side by side, the guideline for the suggested maximum.
The original width and height of design are not clues by default, issues may not be evident until after the motifs are drawn in repeat.
In wearables, a compromise can be reached by taking any of a number of measures, or even by adding lining or iron on facing (woven or stretch), depending on end use.
This 30X30 repeat plays with rotating a half shape around the full first design, forms suitably short floats, while this 18X24 design has several areas that merit attention. This design plays with paired color reversals to create secondary patterns, identifiable here as would-be six sided snowflakes, and is a clear candidate for knitting as DBJ.
Each row of double jacquard consists of two rows of slip stitch patterning, one with ground yarn, the other with contrast.
It is not only newbies that encounter problems with any technique.
There are some days that offer the opportunity for testing patience, persistence, and expletive vocabulary.
The first knitting attempt was with the ribber set to knit every stitch on every row for striper backing, using 2/10 wools. The carriages were hard to push and with some lovely holes including these, even after tension and weight adjustments. Troubleshooting included:
with weather changes especially, think about static, a culprit often named in situations otherwise not explainable
checked needles, they looked fine, had some sticky latches, oiled them
checked alignment, OK
discovered the ribber had dropped slightly on one side, raised that side to match the space between the beds on the other, and on the first next carriage pass there was this.That safety pin was not placed for special effect or aspect ratio, it probably entered through the slots that allow the belt to rotate, but where it came from remains a mystery.
With the yarn selection changed to thinner, similar color 2/20 wools, there were no dropped stitches> holes.
The first test, with striper backing, measured 9.35X10 inches, and with birdseye backing, 7.75 X 6.75 inches

 

 

 

Passap to Brother 7: more Duomatic inspiration

IN PROGRESS

My early posts were often quite brief, and some of the explored techniques were never returned to despite my intentions.
A shawl tale was written in 2009.
The designs explored in this post can be found in the Passap Duomatic baby book. A closer look: My attempt at a hand technique at that time, and the declaration of a planned challenge, “creating a downloadable stitch pattern that will automatically select appropriate needles and duplicate this texture.” It only took 16 years!
The pattern chart: on the Japanese machines, the beds are reversed. The back bed = ribber in our case, is set to knit every row.
Locks is the Passapese for carriages.
Many patterns can be achieved by lock settings and arrow keys without added programming. In Brother machines, a small cousin of the function is found in the use of lili buttons.
When an arrow key is pressed, it tells the Passap machine to engage the pushers.  Depending on the direction of the movement of the locks, the pushers will be lifted or pushed down. Their initial position is set up manually.
The left arrow key changes pusher selection when the locks move to the left.
The right arrow key changes pusher selection when the locks move to the right. Use of both arrow keys simultaneously will change the pusher selection every row.
With the Zero key, no arrow selected, the pushers do not change their position on that pass, repeating the selection.
Pushers preselect for the next pass, as happens with needle preselection in Brother.
AX is the tuck setting for Passap, pushers selected up knit, selected down tuck.
When setting up these patterns, it is best to have a needle on the ribber on each side, not observing the usual “needle rule” for rib knits.
When working on both beds, the default illustrations have a space > dot between needles in work to permit the illustration of needles between them on the opposite bed, so the chart is not for an every other needle design. In this instance,  stitches > needles in work occur in pairs on the top bed.
Programming the repeat: the first pass will knit or tuck alternate pairs of stitches.
The needle selection then stays fixed for 3 rows and reverts to the first selection, a 4-row design. Stitches will be tucked side by side, breaking another common rule.
The ribber needles in this case are extra, not transferred down to the ribber from the knit bed as in some of the fabrics recently explored in other posts.
They are brought into work between pairs of knit stitches on the top bed, represented by the red lines in this chart.

Because of their location, the ribber should be set for half pitch.
With use the beds can shift, for tips on ribber alignment please see post:
A bit on ribbers: Japanese KMs, alignment, and symbols 1.
The stitches on the ribber are outlined with cyan, the triple tuck loops as those needles are brought forward on the knit bed for knitting with white. The proof of concept, programmed on 46X24: The darker color was thicker, knit well, but since this was a test, seeing stitch formation while checking for accuracy mattered. Testing the pattern on the knit bed first determines any problems with the design before the ribber is brought into work, limiting visibility as the knit progressed.
The same repeat, with stitches transferred down to the ribber, leaving empty needles on the top bed, knit on every other needle with 2/8 wool, produced an interesting texture, but quite a narrow knit, 3.5 inches wide. Racking on EON rib: some considerations.
A different design, with the repeat cut in half widthwise for a more traditional tuck stitch configuration, 
also with stitches from the ribber between stitches on the main beda knot in the yarn knit right through and was missed, easy to do when working double bed if the yarn travels with no hesitationThis design uses a simple racking pattern, easy to execute in thin yarns, but not as impactful. In Brother the ribber performs the racking movements.
Both beds are set for plain knit.
The needle set up is on half pitch.
Cast-on for the test swatch was with the racking position starting on 8, with the plan to rack to 10, knit 2 rows, rack back to 8, knit 2 rows, and repeat, performing all position changes with the carriages on the left.
The yarn used is a 2/18 wool/silk blend that resisted the technique regardless of tension and weight adjustments, and began breaking, but there is enough knit to visualize the result. Pattern 2053 is for reversible checkerboards that use tuck settings on both beds,The strippers in the Passap system help push down on loops and knit stitches, anchoring them in a way simply not possible in Brother models. Even if a choice were to be made to push down between the beds with a hacked tool, the Brother needle preselection renders that impractical.
The concept behind the Duomatic version is then switched to automated patterning with the tuck setting on the main bed, and the ribber set to knit every row.
The two rows with one arrow key result in the repeat shifting locations by repeating the same selection, as seen in this chartThe 8X40 design was knit on 48 stitches, these knits are quite wide, loose bind off are required when the pieces are completed.
Each sample knit measures 11.5 inches in width.
Where 4 side by side needles are tucking for four rows, the stitches on the ribber may have a tendency to jump off, resulting in loops not being anchored, so those areas require special attention. The proof of concept for the above repeat in one color and then with color changes every 2 rows

More variations including racked ones are explored in Fisherman_ English tuck stitch rib 1_ checks patterns_ Brother, Passap.

Just because snowflakes are six sided crystals

I have been using Gimp for more than a decade, but the last 3. and 3.+ versions have had bugs that broke familiar functions, among them saves are now in greyscale, RGB mode is disabled, there are file naming issues, and editing and saving preferences are only temporarily saved.
It took a bit of digging to find a 2024 version that appears to work more predictably: https://gimp.macupdate.com/app/mac/14597/gimp/old-versions.

ArahPaint has become my primary design tool. In the past year, some new features have been added, but have not yet been documented here.
There are 6 previous blog posts with suggestions on how to use the program in knit design.
This post shares my doodles in the development of a theme, not specific step-by-step instructions on how to achieve them.
Learn more about ArahPaint on the related Facebook page, YouTube shorts and videos, and by browsing the excellent manual available to download.
Some sections to explore in the PDF: using tools pp. 19-23, drawing straight lines, verticals and diagonals, and shapes pp. 28-30, working with colors 35-59, and repeat modes 63, 90-95. Brick repeats are narrow and long, suitable for punchcard model machines when meeting the 24-stitch restraint rules. Pillar or half-drop, depending on offset, are wide by default and only usable in electronic machine models.
A very brief review of some of the techniques used in the following designs: as the straight line tool is used, an angle for the line appears above the palette area, the value will change following the mouse movement, and the line will stay in place with the release of the mouse. The tool menu offers options for easy transformations and rotations on the whole canvas, on the chosen full image, or selected portions of it using rectangle select. Parts of the design may be copied and changed before pasting into place or in a new window. Working in multiple color palettes, double-clicking on either foreground or background selections allows for changes to those specific selections. Changes may be made using double clicks sequentially to first protect one or more of the colors to selectively work on the background, then again, to render any color transparent, and a third time to revert to the original palette. I work on a Mac desktop with an M1 chip and OS 26.0.1.
The forms classified as snowflakes in knitting, cross stitch, etc., are often multiples of 4 segmental shapes at 45-degree angles.
That said, a snowflake is technically defined as a single, delicate, six-sided crystal of snow that falls from the sky.
This is the start of a coloring book virtual approach to accommodate the math for a 2D fair isle or DBJ design using pixels.
The more familiar views are developed using 60-degree guides and can vary in complexity. Some of the more complex designs become suitable for applied duplicate stitch or beading to improve the definition of stitches. The base grids are 61X61 pixel canvases to allow for single stitch centers/ pivot lines.
Working with double line thickness lines, a 46X46 shape.The PNGs below are not fully developed designs, and are intended for download and use to yield DIY versions that meet your own size and preferences.
Beginning with a 61X61 template with a single pixel pivotal point, the hexagon shape is identified, and it is drawn at 30-degree angles with symmetrical diagonal line placements. Superimposing color blocks and lines, 

the shape rendered all blue, with the blue protected, fill ground with white, crop the result to 34X34, convert to BW. The tiled half drop repeat has negative space that will accommodate smaller added designs in DIY if preferred, 68X34 

A 15-degree template, with single-line pivot points, to render all lines in grey or any preferred color, lock the white, follow with color bucket-filling with the chosen color. Unlock any protected color(s) before proceeding.
The new canvas is 60X60 for visibility and initial pattern drafting.
The full size is retained in the first attempted repeat; note the six-pointed star shape.

Cleaning up, editing pixels,
another 60X60 design
adjusting for a smaller size and a slightly more circular effect
cropped to 44X44 in brick, 44X88
half drop, 88X44, determining missing pixels, adding others to form complete shapes.
A different approach, using colors to plot a 6-pointed star in a different orientation, follows color changes for observing different-sized “flakes”, edited as preferred.

Opportunities to explore negative spaces
30X34
30X68 60X34

30X34 with a bolder outline. Not forgetting those cubes, a start in BW, keeping whole star shapes. A “small” 28X32 motif formed following lines in the template.   33X33 with different shapings. Superimposed equal-size stars with one rotated, 38X38. If there is a need to go big, 32X58.Pondering double-thickness lines, the rotated star shape, 72X60. The possibilities for shifting color placements can lead to endless shape variations.
The final choice then becomes as to the best method for executing any of this as a knit fabric, and whether using 3 or 4 colors is practical, whether the designs will become distorted, the rabbit holes are endless.
For a source of inspiration for more variations and shapes, visit
https://numericaldesign.blogspot.com/2016/07/exagonos-02.html
https://patterninislamicart.com/s/published-material/drawings-diagrams-analyses/publication/geometric-patterns-borders , a sample from the pubA template for pursuing more the ideas using color, 78X44tile as many times as needed for the base canvas,  or begin with the same design rendered in black and white.And here, a version of finding Waldo, look to find the different size flakes 😉

Revisiting double bed knits with stitch transfers between beds

IN PROGRESS

A reminder for Brother machine users. When automating any pattern by programming the top bed, if there are any needles out of work, end needle selection must be canceled, or stitches on either side of the empty needles will knit, not tuck, slip, or knit in the proper color, altering the planned design.
This latest repeat is worked using hand transferring stitches at regular intervals between the main bed and the ribber.
To facilitate tracking, the transfers were executed every 10 rows with the guidance of a marked-up, custom-printed needle tape.
The knitting can begin on the top bed with waste yarn.
Even weight is needed for the stitches to form properly.
The ribber is set to full pitch, P > point to point, during the knitting of the piece.
It is possible to start on waste knitting and to use the ribber comb for an open cast on the top bed.
Alternatively, the single bed comb may be used, with ribber weights evenly spaced apart on it before transferring stitches down to the ribber, or a ribber comb may be poked through the waste knitting evenly, followed by the addition of weights.
1: the initial needle transfer set up, on a multiple of 7 stitches +2. The cells marked with red on the tape represent stitch groups that are never returned to the main bed during the knitting of the piece
2: the transfer set up for the first 10 row group
3: the transfer set up for the alternate 10 row group.

The first and third images from the left show the piece when first removed from the machine, and the other pairs show the swatch after steaming and pressing. The yarn used is a 2/8 wool. Since the fiber has memory, it retains its spring back after blocking and resting, but with some loss of the 3D effect.
Man-made fibers and some natural ones would flatten completely and permanently with pressing/ steaming. 
Tuck lace published designs may be used, instead of taking needles out of work, transfer needles in those blank vertical column locations down to the ribber. The 24X48 PNG tot pattern #620A few of the previous experiments and samples in double bed knitting with stitch transfers between beds, at times only once, at others in repeating pattern blocks.
Knit and purl blocks to create folding fabric_ “pleats”
More fabrics with knit bed tuck patterningUnconventional uses for punchcards 3: lace in rib
Lace transfers meet fisherman rib, 2 color ribbed brioche on Brother machines 2. Ribber fabrics with stitch transfers between beds 1Slip stitch patterns with hand transferred stitches, double bedBrother shadow lace, rib transfer carriage Combining knit carriage needle selection with racking   More to explore
Transfers between needles on either or to and from both beds
Double bed embossed patterns
Bowknot aka butterfly or dragonfly stitch in more than one color
Slip stitch patterns with hand-transferred stitches, double bed
Ribber fabrics with stitch transfers between beds 1
Ribber fabrics with stitch transfers between beds 2
Origami-inspired 2: more pleats and folds using ribber
Pleats: ribbed, folding fabrics
Lace transfers meet fisherman rib in 2 colors on Brother KM 1