Design Repeat Collections – Page 2

Developing tiled repeats suitable for multiple stitch types, including tuck

Punchcard machine users have limitations in terms of repeat width, depending on the brand and age of the machine. Those numbers might vary from 8 to 12, 18, 30, and 40, with a 24-stitch width eventually becoming the most frequent.
When electronic machines were first released decades ago, multiple built-in functions allowed one to manipulate programmed repeats. The latter were drawn with electronic pencils (Studio) or, far more often, with permanent jet-black ink on mylar sheets or “cards”. Passap, at one poin,t developed the initial Wincrea version with a very short dongle for downloading designs to the console away from the knitting bed.
Brother was the first manufacturer to allow programming multiple repeats on a single mylar sheet. It took Studio some time to play catch-up to eliminate all the potentially wasted space on them.
Both brands used mylar sheets with 60 rectangular cells in width by 150 in height.
Variation buttons for the Brother 910:Building up a simple angular repeat can easily be done freehand, filling in pixels, or with the use of the straight line tool in ArahPaint. The 12-stitch design may be mirrored and rotated in a variety of directions. For use in a punchcard, this may be done once in width and three times in height to meet the minimum length requirement.
It is not necessary when drawing to use only black and white to start with, though if the goal is ultimately to produce a programmable BMP or PNG, the final images need to be in those 2 colors.
It is easier to produce a design filling in fewer squares in a lower density and then to color reverse the results if that is required for the specific stitch type.
A: using horizontal and vertical mirroring yields the start of a diamond shape. Punchcard users may find it easier to mark the dark squares and punch everything else if the goal is to use the tuck stitch setting or to have a card “safe for everything.”
B: checking alignment by tiling the file
C: if the intended goal is tuck stitch, and the minimum information is drawn in the design, then the repeat must be color reversed, whether in the program used to create the file or by selecting the built-in function in an electronic after download.
D: the color reverse image tiled may be suitable for some interesting fair isle striping or exchanges of positive/negative spaces at the intersection of any of those rows where the double-height or double-width markings occur.
Red cells indicate two side-by-side unpunched holes or unmarked pixels. In theory, this breaks the tuck rule requiring a knit stitch/ unpunched hole or black pixel on either side of an unpunched area/white pixel, but it likely will be fine, producing something that looks more like a slipped stitch than a tuck.
The double-height areas marked in green would be a problem if one were to test the repeat by doubling its length, with a compounded issue in those areas where tuck stitches would then happen on side-by-side needles for 4 consecutive rows.
Usable with some care for knit weaving, slip stitch, and other stitch types. Results are not discovered unless actually tested.
Keep good notes. Breaking the design into segments to knit as a striped fair isle, ie, in these 4 places.Variations are easier to imagine if one begins with colored repeat segments that can, in addition, be varied using color exchanges to resemble approximate yarn colors. Instructions on color banding using ArahPaint follow at post bottom. In the last post, the same image was mirrored using ArahPaint. The result is a 23X23 pixel design.
Any incrementally larger repeats would require the same operations, using the mirror X-1 and Y-1 options to avoid any side-by-side equal cells, but the process is easier with some understanding of isolating repeats. When the 23-stitch file has been formed, manually trim one pixel along the bottom or top row, and one along either the left or right side, down to 22X22 pixels tested in B/W repeat and here color inverted it is executable in double length thus offering the opportunity for color changing every 2 rows, testing the possibility of its morphing into a mosaic/maze design, remembering first to color reverse the repeat as given here, which in turn yields a file that may be knit with color changes every 2 rows, a technique that can produce maze/mosaic designs with an appearance very different from the same pattern knit as fair isle.
In this swatch, 2/20 wool yarns were used. This results in a knit that can be steamed to stay flat.
The variations in the amount of tucked stitches and their placement expand in some areas more than others, yielding wavy vertical side edges.
The striping occurred to enhance the visibility of stitch formations on the machine, butit can also be a deliberate way to add even more colors to such pieces. The same design, knit in 2/8 wool, begins to show that a pattern may produce very different effects with a simple change in materials or color choice Working outside straight lines and exploring random starts: the post Working with diagonal patterning in machine knitting introduced several larger initial repeats also suitable for tuck patterning when reversed, including this 12X24 pixel design, and the companion larger file, 144X144 pixels The larger file can serve as the start for exploring knit pattern variations through the use of filters.
A description of filters and their use may be found on pp 88-101 of the user manual (thumbnails # 96-108).
A “fast pattern” user guide shared by the ArahPaint 6 developer in October 2023, which demonstrates how to use filters with associated designs https://www.arahne.eu/pdf/fastpattern-EN.pdf
The associated tool options: This first series uses only the Contour filter and random selection of arrows from this tool

beginning with a 12X12 pixel design, developing it into a 31X31 one, not all doubled pixels eliminated doubled pixels eliminated The Zigzag filter creates a zigzag from the image. The number of zigzags depends on the setting of the filter option’s X, Y, and Values, and the direction, Horizontal or Vertical, or a combination of both.
X: determines the number of zigzags up and down, the number should be an even number, ie, 144 divided by 12 would create 12 peaks
Y: creates the vertical direction of peaks
Value: set to 0, the whole image height is taken as amplitude
The variations can be endless, and exploring changes in settings will help develop a sense of what happens. The larger scale results may at times be reduced to a significantly smaller working repeat. Tools/Find Repeat often but not always will do that seamlessly.
The manual offers instructions for manipulating vertical bands of color. Such variants could be knit as intarsia or multiple colors per row, with limitations and considerations.
This 4X4, vertical repeat, tiled to 12X12, color-reversed for tuck knitting,drawn in repeat, and filtered is knittable, but not interesting to me. The result, shown tiled for clarity. Moving away from straight lines, these initial experiments employed limited variations. The red X mark marks the repeat suitable only for fair isle knitting. Choosing individual results to knit in tuck stitch, in review: the smallest repeats may be isolated and pixels cleaned up if preferred, remembering to color reverse when needed. This 24X24 repeat is suitable for punchcard models with the black pixel areas punched. Testing is far easier and quicker using electronic machines. Do not use double length The design is asymmetric, subject to personal preference, and as usual, with results dependent on yarn and color choice.
The yarn used at the top of the photo is a wool-rayon, knit single bed. It was hard to identify stitch formations, hence the swatch was short in height for a visual texture check. Because of the rayon content, all edges steam and press fairly flat.
The other yarn is all wool, knit in every needle rib with the knit carriage set to tuck in both directions, and the ribber carriage set to knit in both.
This type of knit is often referred to as pick rib. Depending on the tuck stitch distribution, the stitches are forced apart vertically and can produce an eyelet effect in a fabric that lies quite flat. A closer look at approximately the same part of the ribbed fabric. A 58X16 file after some cleanup and cropping of one of the other variations is to be color-reversed for use with the tuck setting. Depending on the thickness of the yarn, double length may be used safely for added texture. The swatch illustrates the difference between fair isle knitting and tuck stitch, even when the tension used in the knit carriage remains fixed. Fair isle is in the slip stitch family, so it is short and narrow, while tuck stitch tends to be short and wide. It is usually recommended that fair isle floats be no wider than 5 pixels. Many here break that rule and would need to be managed if the design were to be used in a finished garment. This segmented and cropped to 17X144 pixelsMirrored X-1, 33X144 pixels. I like to plan repeats for any intended piece when possible, in a width matching the number of needles in use, which allows programming as single motif in the 930 with img2track and eliminates the need to turn on other built-in functions or assign needle positions. Doing so also offers the opportunity to add borders if desired.
A 99X144 version was programmed, and the central 71 stitch width was tested, likely suitable for an accessory, ie, a scarf. Those side-by-side white pixels are “OK” since they are in turn sided by black pixels and do not repeat for more than 2 rows.
At some point, one needs to commit to actual knitting. The first proof of concept swatch was knit in a softly spun, shiny rayon that had a slight tendency to split during knitting and steams and sets nearly completely flat. This swatch is knit using a 2/8 wool, retains its texture after steaming and pressing, and exhibits the usual roll to the knit side at the top and bottom of the piece, and to the purl side along the vertical side edges. The variations in the 3D surface that can happen with some tuck patterns appear here and are retained. A brief look at Gradient filter included in post on Truchet inspired tiles.
Restricted-use images may also be built from scratch.
Large published illusion-style designs, even if beginning as black and white, when scaled down in size, can lose definition as a result, rendering them speckled, needing a lot of pixel cleanup, or completely unusable.
This first attempted DIY version begins with a 31X31 repeat. The odd number allows for a corner-to-corner start. The lines are drawn using the straight line tool, with pencil size alternating between one and 2 pixels.Using mirror X-1, Y-1 to 61X61 trimming by a single pixel, and width and height for routine tiling avoids lots of doubled pixels. The final repeat, with small single-pixel placement edits, is now 60X60 repeated in height only, it could be used for perhaps a scarf, with or without solid borders at the bottom, top, and sides. Drawn in repeat X3 in both X and Y directions, it produces a 180X180 file large enough for a blanket, with a bit of wiggle room to add a narrow solid color frame if desired. The design may be knit as fair isle for a quick initial test or for a final piece, since the floats are all very short, or knit as DBJ to produce a no-roll final fabric without floats.
In this test, softly spun rayon and heathery wool were used, resulting in a surprising color mix when compared to their original colors. There were a few spots where the rayon fiber split and knit with the contrast. The end needle selection was off, so there are tiny eyelets in some places where the contrast was not knit on the side edge, and the fabric separates a bit. A variation for a different vertical repeat can easily be isolated from tiled drawings. This additional sample was also knit as a fair isle, with end needle selection on. An added instance of selecting changing the focus from an original tiled 46X46 repeat. Suitable for punchcard knitting: a 12-stitch simple geometric repeat visualized X12 modified using drawing X12 in random repeat for electronic machines. 16X38 20X16 29X29 30X30 42×46 When the planned illusion is a simple line distortion
18X18 “Café Wall” distortion tested on a 60 stitch width, the bottom is double-stranded birdseye DBJ with a shift to single strands at the top. The single plies produce a wider, softer knit imagining a wider piece 10X10 repeat Knit as DBJ, in 2/20 wool single strand, at as tight a tension as possible to allow for proper stitch formation, the bleed-through is quite visible, the swatch is also 60 stitches wide There is a discussion online whether adding a single row of a contrasting color heightens the illusion, a 9X10 repeat adding a third color Larger, 30X30 design with lots of dots creating short floats, suitable for FI single bed with no dots, more suitable for DBJ Shifting gears, a different 18X18 visualized X 9 modified using random nearly the width of the full needle bed, 172X169 A 24-stitch repeat accomplishes an optical illusion of sorts. If only it would work for creating origami-style pleats!
A former Ravelry query prompted these designs, working with blocks, added related designs and test swatches may be found in the posts on Fair Isle experiments and A collection of geometric design blocks built with squares, rectangles, and lines .
16X16color-reversed combined for a 32X32 final repeat drawn in repeat 20X20
22×22 22X30 28X26 60X30 66X60
44X54 42X46
from a weaving draft, 46X46 63X63 adding a third color is easy in the larger blocks, the standard 3 color automatic separations are likely to lengthen the design BW trimmed to 62X62 to eliminate double stitches 66X66 Johann Karl Friedrich Zöllner (1834 – 1882), a German astrophysicist with a keen interest in optical illusions was inspired by a cloth pattern that he observed in his father’s factory and first published the illusion that bears his name in the journal Annalen der Physik in 1860. The acute angles formed by the intersections of the short and long lines make the spaces between the diagonals appear to expand.
My knittable adaptation: the 84X84 repeat Building tiny shapes into secondary ones inspired by weaving drafts
56X148 110X225 Removing doubled vertical segments, 106X225 Adding colors to black and white pngs following the tip by the developer in the post comments:
Choose a black-and-white repeat, in this case, a 36X9 pixel repeat Double-click on one of the two colors to protect/lock it Double-click on it again, and the lock disappears, the color is no longer protected.
In the palette, use + to add a new color, this may be repeated more than once to add more colors or go to colors, set the number of colors to a number, ie. 6, for a random palette group that may, in turn, be edited to other values. Double-click on the rectangle tool to draw filled rectangles In rectangle options, above the palette icon, there are toggle buttons for Horizontal and Vertical, remember to protect a color Once your selection is made, draw the filled rectangle across a selected width and height while keeping the protected color intact. Draw the result in repeat to check for alignment the protected color may be toggled to white If the designs are to be programmed for multiple color slip stitch or DBJ there are rules to be observed, and there may be restrictions on whether each palette color will be recognized as a third or fourth color by the download program ie. when using Ayab, where no two colors may occur in the same range of 8-bit values. For 4 colors, the ranges would be 0-63, 64-127, 128-195, and 196-255.
The img2track partial window with the associated color assignments for the first vertical variation. The horizontal choice allows one to play with selections possibly matching yarn colors in fair isle knitting, only 2 colors per row may be used, here the A feeder yarn remains fixed Remember to unlock the previous color choice if protecting new segment selections.
Visualizing possible FI striping results in progress

Working with diagonal patterning in machine knitting

After a slow down in my blog posts for a variety of reasons I find myself playing catch up with the eternal list of knit fabrics that I wish to explore out of my own curiosity and the attempt to answer questions from knitters who contacted me directly via the blog or have asked them in the online forums in which I am a member.
Stephen West is a prolific designer of colorful hand knits in a variety of techniques and complexity. This honey-striped scarf is an example. Slip-stitch patterning is a likely way of knitting a similar effect combined with
the use of the concept familiar to many when making bias cast-on rags.
A fixed number of stitches is cast on and positioned as far to one side of the machine as possible. They are then decreased on a fixed side and increased on the opposite one.
The strip moves across the needle bed, when far enough on the side opposite to the starting one, it is returned to the original needle bed position and the process is repeated until the desired length is reached.
If the moves to and from are performed on solid color rows matching needle selections may not be an issue. If the repeats in other cam settings are to match, then proper needle placement can be assisted by marking the metal bed, the factory-supplied needle tape, or a custom-printed one, and hand-selection for the first design row may be required and planned.
This chart attempts to visualize the proposed movement using colored stripes. Stitches are bound off on one side and cast-on on the other to maintain a fixed width with shaped edges. If the goal is to maintain straight bias edges, the design repeat would need to be rendered wider in order to compensate for the shifts on the needle bed in turn modifying increases and decreases at a different rate The black cells represent the adjusted stitch counts needed for each pattern band. When an item such as a scarf is worn, both options will appear as diagonals. If any picture knitting is included and the direction of it matters when the piece is worn, appreciated particularly in representational fair isle, such accessories are best knit as 2 pieces knit from the bottom up, and grafted together at their center after the fact.
Increases and decreases are calculated carefully based on the knit gauge for garments. The approach to accessories may be more casual.
Stripe heights are varied to accommodate specific design motifs or cam settings, and they are, in turn, added to the base visualization charts.
Here an attempt at 45-degree striping is made by beginning on a 3-stitch tab. Increasing on the carriage side creates loops, while those opposite the carriage form knots.
Increases and decreases are indicated by arrows.
Increases are made on alternating sides, opposite the carriage, to produce matching edges.
The red cells in the chart represent the carriage side before each pass.
Table cells have been rendered rectangular in a 4 to 3 ratio, estimating the difference in gauge between stitches and rows.
Striping for an even number of rows matters if color changes are made on a fixed side ie if a color changer is in use. Yarn ends at color changes may be cut or the yarn can be carried up the side depending on preference and the number of rows involved. If carried up for long stretches, the alternate color yarn not in use may be secured by e wrapping it on the end needle periodically. Care needs to be taken that the float up the side is not so short as to have an effect on the swatch length and having an effort to remedy that will leave yarn ends too short to be secured.
The result will not produce a proper square, garter stitch is the only knit stitch that results in approximately true square shapes.
If the center of the needle bed is used for swatches while keeping an eye on the stitch formation. If loops are formed repeatedly on specific needles akin to tuck stitches or problem areas such as those in the center of this swatch are encountered, they can be caused by damaged needles or sticky latches that may result from frequent use. Diagonal lines in knits that maintain straight sides are also achieved using short row/holding intarsia techniques. Segments are planned in specific orders which can be varied to form added shapes. Chevrons would be more easily created by knitting separate strips and seaming as you knit or after the fact. The addition of small-repeat fair isle patterns is also possible. Keep in mind when bringing needles back into work to reverse shaping, needle preselection for accurate patterning in Brother machines needs to be maintained by hand selection. Some of the published punchcard patterns can serve as a source for diagonal lines that may be tiled and programmed for the full design in addition to being used for their original intent. Numbers 52, 384, and 328 (published with error), are suitable for tuck, slip, and FI with moderately wide floats, while 335 would fail as a tuck stitch.
For added ways to develop diagonal patterns using brush fill see post on developing designs using pattern fill for use on a range of machine models

Tiling as in any patterning will reveal errors, such as here for 328. The latter was edited to a 22-stitch wide repeat, becoming suitable for only electronic machine models.
The charts with the red grid on the top row were rendered as tables in Numbers. Since their end use is different, they are the color-reversed version of the cards, whose screengrabs were in turn processed in Gimp to create knittable pngs.
The smallest repeats suitable for electronics are given in the center row of images, the amended 328 cannot be reduced in size. The last row illustrates tiling for all files as BW images that may be opened and amended to suit the size of the pieces planned.
Files in png formats for the group: if pngs generated by me in BW indexed mode are downloaded and opened in editors such as Gimp, they will open in RGB mode. To make them suitable for download programs, convert them to indexed BW mode again and save the result. There should be no loss of data.
384, 12X2412X48 144X144328, 22X44
176X176
335, 12X24
24X48 144X144 52, 8X16
24X48 192X192 The black lines formed by units 2 rows in height can be followed or erased to establish short rows shaping a stitch at a time every two rows, given at least 2X2 full repeats to check color placement. The method was used to isolate the previous ungridded color illustrations. Another instance of a published Toyota 901#11diagonal tuck card, in this case, incorporates a combination of 2 and 4-row tuck patterning. The repeat is 24X48 The previews may be used to replace color selections with those matching yarn colors used in the project to develop some idea as to how color shifts might affect the final piece.
EON diagonal patterning surrounding blocks containing other shapes may be maintained with slight variations in the size of the shapes used to fill those blocks References published for weaving can be a source of charts usable for this type of design.
The repeats are provided regarding width (shafts) and height (picks). For proper alignments, the provided charts must be reproduced in full, or in DIY adaptations careful editing with erasures or additions can still maintain the proper tiling.
A full reference with varied size design inspirationsA page from an 1898 pub Playing with using #20 and #16 mirrored, isolating, erasing, or combining elements of each while keeping fixed some of the details that move diagonally to touch sides of the repeats, with the process illustrated in color.
Consider the width of the floats if planning for fair isle patterning.
Check the original for any errors, marked in the color chart in black. They are often not noticeable until the design is drawn in repeat. The editable PNG for the center 24X24 design is tiled on the far right above. It is also suitable for punchcards A 16X16 electronic repeat tiled to 128X128
Handweaving drafts such as those found at handweaving. net provides endless inspiration for designs, including diagonals.
8X8 12X12
drawn in repeat X712X12 drawn in repeat X715X15
color reversed using color invert and quarter rotations to 30X30 16X16
16X16
16X24
drawn in repeat to 160X168 18X18 in repeat to 126X126 20X20
32X32 with rotated segments playing with rectangles, squares, and fill-ins24X24
30X30 A 32X32 diagonal DBJ design built with small color-reversed blocks
16X16 color-reversed 40X40 DBJ testA seasonal sample, 40X41 48X48 The movement is not as evident until the tiled repeat becomes quite large, the start, 168X150 This design measures 768X768 pixels, does line up if drawn in repeat X2 in either height or width, and then may be cropped for pieces in non repetitive patterns Chevrons can be developed from partial repeats. This is from Toyota 950#12, 24X20 drawn in repeat to 144X140 Combined with added shapes 28X32 56X32 rotated 180 degrees combined and trimmed to 56X62 tiled and with an added frame, 124X134 for a blanket-sized project Cropping the frameless large design in different places vertically could provide a collection of accessories ie scarves, ie in this start, 86X132 png with 2 stitch vertical borders on both sides Whether in use for a punchcard model or an electronic one, the convention if the end goal is a tuck stitch fabric, is to color reverse the design It is possible to generate DIY designs easily using ArahPaint.
Taking diagonal patterning to the double bed for creating pintuck effects using the slip-stitch setting, this 24X48 repeat explores some of the potential spacings and the resulting ridges. The next 2 repeats tested, both 24 stitches X 48 rows: The red line is a reminder that the slipped stitches are being held for as many as 8 rows. It is best to use thin yarn that does not break easily and to watch for the knit stitches riding up.
Slipping in one direction produces a very subtle texture, while the color-reversed design produces even-sized identifiable folds Adding lettering or small shapes and maintaining the diagonal can result in distortion of the motifs.
One option to add such motifs is to form the knit by beginning on 3 stitches as in this shared swatch and planning the stripes to heights and widths that accommodate adding designs or fonts. Short-row intarsia will also produce diagonal striping, from simple to complex as seen in this chart, with knitting sequence numbered for each segment. A limited number of rows may be knit in stocking stitch in areas following shapes not simply to travel to the opposite side and reverse shaping, but also to add small rolls or hems.
Another use might be to add small vertical motif details or patterning in their usual orientation.
The limit appears to be a maximum of 8 rows of alternative patterns, in order to keep the short-rowed areas from developing into distorted edges, which may be variable depending on the yarn and pattern used.
This first swatch was knit using progressively thinner yarns, wool, wool rayon, and a 2/24 acrylic in the FI segment. FI is a slip stitch that narrows the knit. The dark acrylic color stitch definition here gets lost. The band is seen pulling in the short-row segments on both sides. The shaping in both the top and bottom segments is by 2 stitches at a time. The result in different yarns of equal thickness, with the FI band knit at a tension one full number looser than the stocking stitch areas, with the top and bottom solid color segments now shaped 3 stitches at a time. There is a trick when making A-line skirts to change the triangles that would poke out normally at the bottom if shaping were to begin immediately used as a design feature in many runway knits recently. If between an inch or 2 are actually knit up straight before shaping starts, the problem is eliminated. Depending on the design this may be a solution or it may read as a patterning error.
There are some conventions and “rules” for short-row techniques, but they do not always apply.
Keeping good notes helps to make successful experiments reproducible.
Two more tries began to experiment with working on the first and last groups in the holding techniques on a different number of stitches than the remaining shapes, noting differences. In the first an all-knit row is made across the short-row eyelets, reducing the planned FI band from 6 rows to 5. A rough spot in maintaining even stitches on one side is noticeable. Progress: holding happened at the start of the bottom wedge, the FI was knit at 2 tension numbers looser than the stocking stitch, for 6 rows. The goal in the short row shaping for the triangles is to maintain vertical edges that appear as straight as possible to the eye. One need not work on large swatches, small ones can provide clues as to differences resulting from variations in the starting side of the short-row shapings. Studying the results can lead to many variations. There are student theses and careers based on exploring limited techniques to the max.
Building a theoretical true square or other predictable shapes is subject to the yarn and tension used. Beginning with a small sample, this shows the order of knitting 2 triangular shapes with the carriage beginning to knit each shape from alternate sides. In this case, 2 stitches are to be brought in and out of holding at a time. Because each color knits for 2 rows, small slits happen in the fabric resulting in eyelets. They may be used as design features, or attempts can be made to reduce their size. One way to do so is to have plain knit rows between holding selections to keep the small slits from intersecting and becoming double height. On the left swatch, one yellow row was knit to the left before reverse shaping in the same color. In the swatch on the right, in addition, 2 rows were knit in the blue prior to reverse shaping. Reviewing the concept and developing a chart for larger swatches: the cyan color cells represent stitches in the hold position and the white cells stitches that will be knit.
At the top of the first wedge, most needles will be in the hold position, return them all to the B position manually before knitting the next row.
With the carriage on either side, set it for KCI with the cam buttons to slip for a free pass to the opposite side, the first FI pattern row will pre-select. Holding need not be canceled, since no needles are brought far enough out for the technique.
Cancel the slip setting, change the cam setting for FI knitting, place the pairs of colors in their corresponding feeders, and knit 6-8 rows of pattern.
Bring all needles out to hold except for the first desired group, if the holding lever has been canceled, reset it and commence reverse shaping. Merrily knitting along and you forget to loosen the tension for the fair isle stripe: And what if the FI were to actually follow diagonal colored stripes? The approach is the same. I am right-handed, my default is often to begin on the right. Left-handed knitters can mirror charts as needed to make them easier to follow.
The first triangle is shaped from the right toward the left, subsequent ones begin on the left, then to wrap or not wrap becomes the question. Review of wrapping, which does not disturb the stitch on or the position of the wrapped needle: I obstinately use random yarns at hand, sometimes too thin for the task, true here. Any type of intarsia, of which holding is one, will be accompanied by lots of yarn ends that will require weaving in. Some of the stitches were wrapped here, some not, and maybe the eyelets could be considered a pleasing design feature. The 8 rows of FI, knit at 2 full tension numbers higher than that used for stocking stitch, minimizes the size of the eyelets all on their own on both sides of its stripe. Errors in bringing an added group or not into work may not always be immediately visible, frogging this type of knitting can be painful.
I would not use the last 6 stitch modification in any future swatches. Elizabeth Zimmermann published many patterns for hand knitting utilizing garter stitch and striped diagonal wedges for garment shaping.
Multiple colors per row patterning may be maintained by beginning planning with diagonal straight lines, seen here in a 32X32 repeat. Opened in img2track The design will be elongated, and 256 passes are required to finish a single repeat Each color may be edited to suit. Quick visualizations of a few of the possible repeat arrangements using the file as is Avoiding lots of extra knit rows by eliminating one of the colors. The larger designs may need to be knit in sections depending on the available memory in the knitting machine model being used.

Machine-knit stitches do not form as close to square ones found in garter stitches. Rendering the full-scale garment on a knit leader would make knitting to gauge while avoiding tons of math calculations possible.
DIY is a bit like assembling paper cut-outs that are required to fit together, first attempts at planning do not always succeed. One may begin at different parts of the piece and seam two halves together if necessary in order to keep matching stitch formations in both directions. Stripes may be added to form secondary intersecting shapes. On the left is a simple one-piece vest concept with no miters in the back panel, which may be knit from the bottom up or as two pieces with a center seam.
The bolero style is repeated in 2 separate pieces with mirror shaping in the second and would be joined at the center back.
The knit gauge is easier to maintain in short or small wearables. Many garments may be made following the concepts for creating “pies”.
Decades ago batwing sweaters based on a sideways circular knit concept were standard presentations at knit seminars. Short-row diagonal graduated wedges were followed by varying amounts of all knit rows.
This idea for a short sleeve garment is from a Japanese magazine. In creating such illustrations because of the scale of the publication, the aspect ratio is distorted. In the final garment, the bottom circumference can in fact be far narrower than it might appear to the eye in the sketch and may be gathered or left released depending on design goals. The neckline diameter at the end of the project, after joining one shoulder, is gathered with evenly distributed decreases to the desired measurement prior to knitting the collar. A way to form a long sleeve item, using binding off and casting on stitches in addition to shaped wedges followed by all knit rows. Knitting a garment on the bias at 45 degrees will produce a knit fabric that drapes differently.
Horizontal patterning can turn into diagonals and chevrons, and fancy decreases may be used in the center shaping of the garment.
Pre-computer programs and knitleaders, an easy way to sort out shaping for garments, was to begin by drawing on large sheets of graph paper. An all-square grid is fine.
Calculate a 10 cm/4 inch knitting gauge to the second decimal point before any rounding off. For example, if the gauge works out to be 5.728, and the measurement needed is 19.5 inches, the multiplied value result is 111.696, which can be rounded off to a 112-row line on the graph paper.
Working in cm can actually lead to easier calculations and is required when using a charting device.
Each cell in the graph paper grid equals one stitch and one row.
For knitting on the straight grain, based on gauge, draw series dots placing them on the beginning and the ending pots for each measurement, and connect them with straight lines.
Curves such as those necessary for necklines may be composed of short straight-line segments.
When knitting from the bottom up, continue with a colored pencil, filling in squares as they jog in or out, maintaining the new outline as close to the first as possible.
For the bias knit, whether on graph paper, the computer, or a charting device, begin by drawing a 45-degree line.
Rotate and trace the unmodified original straight-line image in place, follow the lines, and mark in and out jogs once more in color for contrast.
This is a very small chart so outline jogs in far larger pieces cannot be reflected. They would produce edges not as straight as in standard knitting, which will need to be considered when joining finished pieces.
As the piece is rotated, a wider grid base is required. Consider that the motif images as they are worked on the purl side will be mirrored horizontally on the knit side, a particular consideration if any text is introduced. Comparing theoretical purl as opposed to knit views on the left, two purl views on the right. Fonts in various stitch and row counts are useful when planning knit text.
The point at which the text or pattern is introduced needs to have enough stitches in work on the machine to contain the intended words, ie for the above, a minimum ground, independent of shaping, would need to contain more than 9 rows if solid color stripes are to be added above and below it, and 26 stitches in width in this case.
A proof of concept swatch with arbitrary shaping on every other row illustrates the need for shaping based on a calculated gauge if a square is indeed the aim.
I knit on a 930 where mirroring is automated for programmed designs, so the text was programmed as drawn.
Sometimes less information is more. It became evident very soon that the placement of the text on the left was wrong if the aim was to have it centered in the final shape, and that more rows were needed at the top of the design.
On the right, the purl side as it faces the knitter is shown, with black pixels used to represent increases and decreases. The center red line separates the needle placements on either side of 0, and the text is shown in the default mirroring. The respective swatches after their rotation preview one of the potential results A true diagonal repeat may be planned for motif patterning knit from the bottom up. The drawback is that for executing a fair isle using more than 2 colors or with multiple color changes, partially illustrated on the far right, the 32X32 repeat would need to be rotated and knit as above.

From the Brother machine knitting techniques book, a suggestion for dividing a sweater front into diagonal halves created by using the holding technique

The idea of chaining the eyelet areas to reduce the size of the slits is an interesting one that up to now I have not tested.

Diagonal pleats

Weaving drafts as inspiration for other textile techniques

This blog post was first published in 2015 in a very brief version.
Since my blog is a live document, I have added files and info as software acquired during the interim made inspiration sources so much easier to convert to knittable formats.
2025-26: ArahPaint has become my preferred paint program, with Gimp trailing behind.
The PNG results can include large-scale files suitable for blankets, with the size kept up to 200 stitches in width, or narrower, leaving a pixel-free frame for adding borders.
For some related knit test swatches, see fair isle experiments.
The inspiration sources are often Pinterest, weaving draft finds, and shared as single repeat PNGS, and then drawn in repeat
18X16108X11224X34136X12038X20114X12038X34
152X17038X38 152X152 38X38152X15238X62152X18640X40160X160 46X46A184X184shifted repeat 46X46B184X18448X48144X14454X54162X16262X62 186X186shifted repeat, 62X62186X18664X64192X192 78X28 156X140 78X78 234X234, trimmed to 168X168 134X134 single repeat. The PNGs for the series that were generated with Luminescence, along with their tiled companions: 14X14 15X16 46X46 14X14 14X14

July 2021: since this post was published, I have written on using a combination of Mac Numbers and Gimp to modify repeats from punchcard and electronic model machines published sources, including:
Numbers and GIMP: online punchcard patterns to electronics
Numbers and GIMP: online punchcard patterns to electronics 2
Numbers to GIMP to create images for electronic download
I am now adding a shorthand version for those with some familiarity with both programs, using an online draft from Luminescence to obtain a knitting repeat. Images saved from the site, even if drawn in black and white, do not convert easily and cleanly to black or even 2 colors indexed images in Gimp, but are workable using this combination software method. As previously published, weaving drafts can be a source of inspiration for other textile media as well. Luminescence is an online weaving program developed by Andrew Glassner. There are ample instructions and help files on site with regard to weaving. My first instinct, however, is often to interpret images of all sorts for knits (I abandoned weaving many a year ago). I am sharing some very quick first experiments with the software with that possible intention. The same charts might be used for other counted-stitch unit textiles. The first draft I chose to load from the app’s pull-down menu was called High Seas. The numbers indicate “Fabric Size”, stitch, and row counts in knits

120

Quoting from the help files: “Show grids: This is another cosmetic choice. Turning this on draws the internal grid lines for all 6 grids (warp pattern, warp colors, weft pattern, weft colors, tie-up, and fabric). These let you easily count the cells, which can make it easier to match a published draft. As with Show threads, this checkbox and its effect are disabled if the Fabric size is 100 or more.” “

“To save an image of the fabric, just right-click on it. You should get a pop-up menu that offers you a few options. One of these will be Save Image As… (or something close to that). Choose that, and you’ll get a standard dialog box that lets you put the image where you want it. Using Firefox on the Mac allows the image to be saved in the standard PNG format, which offers the highest quality. You can change that to JPG or anything else using almost any image editing program.” Safari is problematic with saves, allowing only for a web archive or screen capture.

99 easier to see and/ or count units, clear tiling: 60enough to easily sort out repeats: 30

Your preferred paint program may be used to draw lines that isolate single “knit” repeats; threading and tie-up sequence repeats are used as guides, making the process fairly straightforward, imagining possible related borders. A more complicated draft isolating the much larger repeat

always double-check tiling before knitting for accuracy, any “surprises”, and the possible pattern placement on the knitting machine’s needle bed.

Got a draft from an online pub? always good to start with a recognizable, simple design, isolate the repeat (GIMP): crop tool and size control

in this instance, the result is a 154X 154 pixel square image, with 14 X 14 unit desired subdivision, making my grid preferences setting 11 X 11 pixels

tiling test: looks like a match!

line width, colors, etc., may all be set and changed to suit individual needs and preferences. Please note that superimposed grid lines are lost when the image is tiled or exported from GIMP. Some version of screen grab or snap must be used to capture and save gridded images,

an additional draft, and the same process.

A bit on the charting: after launching the program and loading an image, the GIMP window’s options will become available. I leave my toolbox always active. Tool Options give the opportunity to control crop size, pencil line width, etc. As you click on/ select any tool, the options window will change and offer selections for managing that particular tool

crop pencil brush

notes from Working with generated mazes: GIMP charting 2 for straight-line drawing on Mac: “first select color and pencil tool. Place a pencil dot where you want the line to start. If you press the shift key, a crosshair will appear, press the command key in turn as well for straight-line mode, and click where you want the line to end. Consecutive clicks will continue drawing straight lines that originate from the end of the last line. Pressing both the shift and the command keys at once after the initial pencil mark will call up the color picker and require a color selection and an “OK”.

Hound’s tooth FI variations

It appears hound’s teeth are turning up on runways everywhere, along with plaids. There are many variants of the pattern, and Excel and other software programs make playing with motifs, literal and not so much, easy and quick studies. History of the particular platter may be found @ http://www.tess-elation.co.uk/houndstooth/history, analysis of the math involved: https://archive.bridgesmathart.org/2012/bridges2012-299.pdf

2025: post reviewed, PNGs are being added for some of the original charts over time, most in a minimum 32X32 tiled format for increased visibility

the Studio punchcard version the Brother version a more block-like one, similar to some found on woven fabrics a petite cousin playing with the negative space (no longer suitable for punchcard), not successful some repeats lined up 16X16 some “doodles” of mine from an online search adding simple shapes, 8X8 inspired by weaving drafts, 8X8 design repeat a 16X16 variation 14X14 8X8 8X8 16X16 color reversals beginning with 8X8 16X16 24X24 32X31 this design required a slightly different approach, the design was built with segments, and the final pattern cropped to 24X24, suitable for punchcards
vertical pattern combo with other designs, repeat is 8 rows by 47stsfrom a punchcard pattern book

going large,28X28 48 X 48 going a little “crazy”, a 134 X134 pixel image, followed by tiling of it from a 3 color weaving draft inspiration

2024 Software tools have changed dramatically since much of the body of this post was first published, some downloadable pngs and added content follows
working larger scale, and with some planning for an added third color, the starting 16X16 png planning a plaid effect requires eliminating touching points, the repeat adjusted to 17X16 areas adding a third color finding the individual 68X64 repeat always check tiling before knitting
Going huge, planning a repeat on square 8X8 grid blocks the resulting 32X32 file tiled to 160X160 adding another color after removing some pixels, the repeat remains 32X32 adding a third color in spots, work in only 3 selected colors, not RGB Mode
this particular variation repeat is 128X128 pixels in size the palette can easily be adjusted to match yarn colors and help to finalize the color choice 2024: a 16X16 that morphs into star shapes this pattern was also based on a weaving design, and appeared evocative of shapes in this family some of the pattern definition may appear less clear in the transition from BW computer renderings to the actual knit sampling