Knit strips, ruffles to doilies, automated with slip stitch

IN PROGRESS

When the goal is to form a trim of any width to attach to garments, including shawls, by creating knit strips that are more gathered on one side and full length on the other, whether interspersed with all knit rows or short row segments, some samples are achieved with the following designs automating the process from A slip stitch patterned ruffle and more, 24X36This 24X26 variation includes a self made, no-roll edging on the outside circumference. In DIY, there is an opportunity to change the scale of the repeat in width and height with variations in the amount of gathering. Whether or not there is an end use is a personal choice, and any of the designs can be amended once the starting point is established.
A new striped variation began with a 60X48 PNG, working at first in a color grid to determine the placement of pairs of slipped stitches to gather the knit, with no added all-knit or short row segments.
In addition, the goal is to have one color knitting for 2 rows, the other for 4.
Making things work: the first sample had the dark color slipping as well, creating a line connecting the dark blocks to the stripe beside them. Revising the design to eliminate those connections: the initial plan, converted to 2 color BW, and mirrored for use on my 930, to have the slip blocks form on the right. Comparing the placements of the 2X2 blocks in each of the repeats. Striping with color changes every two rows and combined with short rows, whether hand-selected or automated using slip stitch, provides an opportunity to have those stripes meeting at angles, forming secondary shapes, at times superimposed on each other, in varying widths.
Experiments can be freeform, but if the patterns are to be used in items that require fit, then math comes into play.
Previous posts reviewing methods for getting shapes to go round, from early, very brief ones to late, quite long ones.
Return to circles, knit and crochet “pies” 1  2/17
Return to circles, knit “pies”, miters, and spirals 4  3/17
Return to circles, knit “pies” 3  3/17
Return to circles, knit “pies” 2 (round yokes and more)  3/17
Return to circles, knit and crochet “pies” 1 2/17
Revisiting miters, spirals, going square, round, and more  2/16
A tale of 2 donuts  9/15

Miters and spirals: visualizing, charting (and more) 3  7/14
Miters and spirals: visualizing, charting (and more) 2  7/14
Miters and spirals: visualizing, charting (and more) 1  7/14
Short rows_ balls, tams, 3D rounds  12/13
Back to that pie: a bit of holding  6/11
Knitting math and pies 6/11

Modifying repeats in slip stitch experiments

Both tuck and slip stitch designs that repeat selections for 2 rows, whether for electronic or punchcard machines, as published or doubled in height if needed after conversion to PNGs, can be used to produce maze/mosaic-like designs by changing colors every two rows.
This particular design was intended as a FI border pattern, and is explored as a possible striped pattern using slip stitch <–>.
Before committing to knitting, magnify the PNG or chart significantly enough to catch missing or extra cells; this first swatch experiment has missed program errors.
The slip stitch segment was knit first, and is composed of two full repeats in height, the FI segment of only 1.
The float formations on the purl side are clearly different in density between the two techniques.
The reverse order, testing the pattern first as FI with clearly contrasting colors, would have made it easy to identify design repeat errors, and is a good way when first experimenting with techniques, to check for correct patterning.  The easy-to-miss spot,   the corrected punch card design, 24X44, and the matching electronic single repeat, 12X44.The total row count is also a multiple of 4 in height, with potential for repeating the slip stitch experiment with color changes every 2 rows.
The choice can be made to program vertical all knit borders on either side, i.e., in this 54-stitch version.  The virtual image of the potential FI result. Eliminating that 2-row all-black pixel stripe, aiming for a continuous design, and revising some pixel positions, resulting in a new 24X40 card,  and the 12X40 single electronic PNG, were achieved working in ArahPaint; the red cells mark those missing pixels. The red cells mark the missing white pixel spots.
A: The original border design, single repeat
B: In a new window, with a new image with several extra rows added to double the 44 pixel height, copy and paste A at the bottom, and paste again, overlapping the top rows of the first design, visually checking the alignment
C: Crop out extra blank pixel rows and the last pair of rows with all black cells
D: Tools> Find Exact Repeat, Crop to Selection
E: The new, 12X40 single repeat, also a multiple of 4 in height.A rotated virtual check of the possible appearance of a FI sample. Each swatch segment was knit on 55 stitches and for 80 rows, both measure 5.5 inches in width, but the FI measures 10.5 inches in height, and the slip section measures 6.75 inches.
The compression in height, and often in width, are features of the technique.
The all-knit vertical borders on each side produce slight ruffles on the side edges.
A Japanese magazine find, 24X56, modified for use with a color changer to 24X60, cyan cells represent all knit rows in the color with stitches that will be held until the next all knit row in that color, which will appear in the front of the knit as elongated stitches and gather the surrounding blocks of knit stitches in chosen colors.  With designs using the changer and a single selected row at the bottom of the programmed repeat, the first preselection row is from left to right, with the color in the carriage knitting that single row on the way back to the left. Subsequent color changes occur every two rows or for multiples of 2.
The sample was knit on 72 stitches, 120 rows, and mirrored for use on the 930.  On the machine, note the wide spaces between slip stitch columns. The yarns used were not 100% wool, resulting in some loss of texture with steaming.
The stocking stitch segments at the top and bottom are clearly wider than the patterned areas. In a final piece, consider using a small every-row or every other row repeat also in slip stitch; it may help increase the gather the top and bottom folds of the shapes.
While the work is on the machine, consider playing with the color in the skip stitch stripes. If the goal is to change the color outlining the folds, the repeat can be altered to 24X64 or more. The two-row bottom start begins with the first preselection row from right to left.  The color shifts for full secondary shapes in each. Working double-bed, it is difficult to get the main bed stitches to slip for more than 4 rows without running into problems, sometimes eased by careful yarn selection.
It took several tries in PNG edits, tension, and yarn changes to come up with a compromise. The 24X60 repeat.   The knit carriage is set to slip throughout, while the ribber carriage is set to knit on the rows marked in cyan, where each needle is preselected, and to slip for the remainder of rows, where there are non-selected needlegroups (white cells). Floats still form on the main bed, but are encased between beds when all stitches on both beds are knit. The swatch was knit in a single color, since the slip stitch sections are an uneven number of rows in height, 5, tested on 72 stitches, and measures 10.25 inches in width.  Collections of textured single bed variations:
Single bed slip stitch vs ruching 2 05/26
Single bed slip stitch vs ruching 02/26
Slip Stitch on the single bed, double bed, and hand manipulated versions: links in the start of a blog index

“Intarsia” without an intarsia carriage on Brother machines, 2

Automated shapes across rows of knitting using slip stitch only reviews several methods to automate/ program short row techniques.
BW repeats may have stripes of color planned and added by simply changing yarns in the yarn feeder in the selected areas.
A recent FB comment asked the question as to whether it is possible to automate intarsia using img2track downloads.
Short row “intarsia” can be executed with manual needle selection following charts, or as an easier, viable option using a knit radar and with shapes illustrated on garment pieces, which can follow the simple geometry seen in the hand selection methods, or graduate to the degree of complexity the knitter has the desire and patience to execute.
These posts illustrate simple shapes and the breaking down of more complex ones.
Intarsia without an intarsia carriage on Brother machines.
A bit of holding 5: intarsia and more 2
A bit of holding 4: intarsia and more
A bit of holding 3: shape variations and more
A bit of holding 2 / moving shapes around
A bit of holding 1
The Silver Reed electronic intarsia carriage was briefly available as an accessory for knitting complex intarsia designs with automated needle selection.
The yarn is placed and used in the same manner as when using the Brother intarsia accessory, but note that there are now multiple needle positions and selections for the 4 types of intarsia offered.  I gave away my standard intarsia carriage, so I cannot speak as to whether programming a design, placing yarn in selected needle groups manually as above, and bringing them all to the required position for the carriage to make successful passes would be a viable alternative.
These images are from the E6000 Passap manual, alongside the electronic repeats, which are mirrored on the front face of the knit. The accompanying technique recommendations. Without a Passap, and the discussion being on Brother electronic knitting, starting with duplicating one of the Passap designs and thinking it through, the 32X28 2-color repeat,doubled in height to 32X56, color separated for 2 color DBJ with each color in each design row knitting twice by color inverting every other row and doubling the height once more, to a final repeat of 32X112, mirrored for use on the 930. End needle selection must be canceled.
The pattern setting in the knit carriage is for slip-stitch in both directions.
The first preselection row is from right to left, with color changes every 2 rows using the changer on that side.
There will be a yarn ends to weave in, as at the start of any intarsia design.
Since each color knits for two rows, eyelets are formed at the color changes, familiar in short row designs. If bothersome, the size of the eyelets could be reduced.
The pattern was tested on 32 stitches and for 132 rows. At any point, more colors could be introduced for horizontal striping color changes.  When the yarn traveled across multiple stitches before being picked up, the resulting floats were hooked up every third needle on the same color stitches before knitting the second pass with it.
Central designs are more problematic to execute and, if not very wide, may knit more easily as single FI motifs, with wrapping at the sides, and latching up floats as needed.
Img2track will separate for 3 and 4-color designs.
This first attempt was a failure and reminded me why I love/hate the single bed color changers.
Aside from the changer and sinker plate crankiness, the colors, as they were carried up the left side, would twist around each other, forming floats to the next selected group.
Img2track selects colors based on the number of cells that are represented  for each in the first design row, hence the sequence is blue, yellow, red.
The test image, 32×28, was doubled in height to 32X56. I prefer to start short rows from the right.
Aiming for a similar attempt with the automated version, the image was mirrored horizontally for use on the 930.
The first preselection row is toward the color changer (remember to change the setting when the carriage is on the left to slip stitch).     This was a day when everything that could go wrong had. In addition, color #3, the red, catches on the left side before traveling to knit the narrow center band of color for no reason I could immediately fathom. What the manual has to offer in terms of threading the changer.After the knitter, accessory, and the machine got a break, analyzing the order for color changes made by the img2track, was reminded that selections are made in order of the number of cells representing each color in each design row, making the red, color 3, the selection for the center shape, catching that color on the left.
To eliminate that problem, one solution is to use a second carriage to select and knit the center color, operating from the right side of the machine, using rails and making sure each knit carriage clears the belt before the second carriage operates from the opposite side.
The programmed repeat stays the same.
This particular design has some jumps in the number of needle sequences that form long floats. They can be managed as one would in FI, i.e. The resulting test swatch.  Devising a manual color separation to work cleanly with a fixed 1,2,3 sequence, the full repeat was cropped to 32X48 pixels in height, with each color in each design row still occurring X3, and the result was mirrored for execution on the 930.  Using ArahPaint, the process shown charted in progress: The double height rendition, second from the right, with the white color locked, can have all other colors filled with black, as seen in the charted repeat on the far right, finally programmed as FI in img2track.
Missing out on the prompts for color changes is not a loss. It is easy to see which colors should knit next, with #1, red, starting on the far right, followed by the dark color, 2, for the center shapes, and then 3, the yellow/orange. The BW color-separated file PNG, 32X96, and the proof of concept swatch. A convoluted approach: DAK Method C, if you have access to a screen grab of the template can convert it manually to a BW PNG, which may work with img2track, the double-length switch will need to be used in Japanese knitting machines. The DAK jacquard choices. If the goal is to use the technique in large knit pieces, then design repeats that tile properly can be used.
Encountering limitations to automation: a 20X20 repeat drawn using the pencil and straight line tool, checked in repeat, 60X60, filling in diagonal lines, isolating a new 20X20 repeat, doubled in height to 20X40, color inverted for use on the 930, and finally color separated, 20X80.   When using a repeating occurrence of the width of groups of each color in programming the final piece, there are some related problems: as selections are made and repeated across a row of knitting, the color being carried skips the non-selected needles, forming floats. Using the end needle selection on the carriage to catch yarns when needed at the side edges will throw off the repeats, as seen in the photo. End needles in work will also knit an extra stitch on either side of the non-selected needles, changing the intended groups of 8.  Returning to hand selecting needles, it becomes easier to add colors as well; there is no need to mirror the chart. The knitting sequences are numbered, and stitches are brought into hold after several rows of base knitting/ waste yarn.  To maintain straight side edges, it is best to chart the repeat in full. The original sketch can represent single rows of knitting, but short rows will be executed with each color making 2 identical passes, resulting in the familiar eyelets, and elongation of the design.
Color changes can occur frequently, limited by patience, yarn availability, and the knitter’s willingness to deal with lots of yarn ends.
The initial charted repeat is 40X40 pixels in width and height, and will tile correctly if larger pieces are planned or if longer pieces in a fixed width are the goal.  My swatch was knit with randomly grabbed yarns of my stash, in multiple thicknesses, not the best choice for the final pieces, resulting in some distortion along the diagonal lines.
All stripes are 8 stitches in width.
Most of the movements are needle one out on the left, one needle in on the right, except when small starting or ending triangles at the top or at the bottom of the diagonals are present.
When the top of the planned test is reached, stop on the right side when the last row of 8 stitches occurs for that color is reached, bring the group out to hold, make a free pass to the left, bring the next selection of needles to work, and continue.
Check stitch counts before returning to the left to pick up the next color. Errors may not be noticed immediately, i.e., in the purple stripe.
If ends are woven in, try not to pull on them; allow for some ease to keep that last row cleaner, all easier to manage with thicker yarns than those in this swatch. There is an accessory called an intarsia yarn brake.   While it was in my stash to demo in teaching days, I much preferred bobbins for personal use. Some knitters, as with all other accessories, find it useful. If possible, check reviews and take one for a test drive before making any purchase.
These are suggestions from published sources on how to deal with stitches in holding position, often found in conjunction with shaping shoulder slopes. Wrapping needles adjacent to shaping reduces the size of the resulting eyelets where the same row is repeated twice. The Brother Techniques Book  is a wonderful resource; their suggestions on partial knitting are on pp. 44-47, their illustration for managing those floats when moving by multiple needles, possible on both sides of the piece, harder to bring to the front if the pattern is automated and programmed for use with the slip stitch setting. The angles and size of the shapes can be varied, straightforward to program if only two colors are used in the intarsia concept, but there is also the possibility of changing colors every 2 rows to create horizontal stripes that interact with each other, forming secondary striped interacting shapes.
The next rabbit hole will be exploring short rows, automated when possible, while making stripes intersect in shapes that go round, a return to “doilies”.

 

A family of bubbly textures knit using different techniques and yarns

Bubbled textures can be created in a variety of ways, such as with hand techniques, i.e., ruching, or automated, commonly with slip stitch designs. Machine and yarn tolerance are considerations when having multiple stitches and rows skipped, at times, an impressive number of times.
A reminder of the differences between slip and tuck stitch formations.
In both, stitches in non-selected needles grow in length until they are knit again. In slip stitch, needles are skipped, forming floats (bottom knit/purl illustrations), while in tuck stitch (top illustrations), loops are built up in the same needle hooks as the held stitches, making for a less forgiving repeating needle no-selection choices. This repeat, with tuck happening for four rows, began with a 6X24 PNG. Loaded into ArahPaint, it was drawn in a brick repeat, with a final PNG of 24X48, which in turn needs to be color-reversed to be used for tuck stitch. Punch card machine users need to punch all the black cells. 
The swatch was test-knit on 53 stitches, using a 2/8 wool, and measures 7.75 inches in width. Using the same yarn, color, and tension, wondering about making the texture more pronounced, I tested the same repeat with manually selected FI patterning, which produces a narrower width than stocking stitch. A programmable PNG, 6X48charted for punch card knitting.  The swatch measures approximately half an inch less in width than the first sample.  My stash of knittable elastic is extremely limited. Continuing to explore making small changes and exploring their effect, here the same design repeat was used, with elastic as one of the 2 yarns in the FI bands. The repeat is changed to standard as opposed to brick configuration, with textures lining up vertically. The width of the swatch, knit on the same # of stitches as the last sample, measures 6 inches in width as opposed to the non-elastic FI version’s 7.5, with a loss of .75 inches in comparable knit pattern height. The main yarn was switched to 2/20 wool, and the pattern was divided by 4 rows knit using only the elastic, with a return to the brick configuration. The work on the machine has a very different appearance when off. The swatch is nearly identical to the last in width, but the shapes collapse, shrinking the overall height. A few changes in the number of stitches and rows represented by white pixels for stitches that will be skipped, beginning with a brick arrangement, 24X80. The yarn used is a 2/8 wool; the swatch was knit in only one color to check yarn tolerance for stitches being held in needle hooks until they are knit off again, and with the intent of using it as the ground when adding another color to the mix. The test was on 60 stitches, and for 160 rows of pattern, measuring 6 inches in height. The second swatch began with the 24X40 design in simple vertical repeat,  also tested on 60 stitches and for 160 rows of pattern, measuring 7.25 inches in height.
The dark-colored ground knits all stitches in all rows, where there is a pre-selection of every needle.
The yellow yarn is 4 ply, thicker than the dark, a 2 ply.
Secondary shapes formed by the textured gathers recognized by the eye of the beholder are part of this type of experimentation, not often predictable, and at times a fun surprise.
A range of added textures, some created using the thread lace setting, can be found in the blog posts:
Knitting with “unusual” fibers/ elastic 3 5/22
Knitting with “unusual” fibers/ elastic 2
8/20
Knitting with “unusual” fibers/ elastic 1 1/20
Balanced designs are not the best to use with the thread lace setting, a sample that began with a 24X24 PNG with added pixels to break up some long potential floats. The elastic is threaded through feeder A, the “bubble” yarn in feeder B, illustrated aside some of the work on the machine, appearing flat and stretched out. The elastic will shrink back when the finished swatch is steamed. The blue yarn is a 2/20 wool; the elastic is from an unmarked cone in my stash, a tad too thick, with a mind of its own, knit on 50 stitches.
End needle selection is canceled. If needles are selected in a pattern, they need to be pushed back to the B position so both wool and elastic will knit together.
The finished width after steaming is 4.5 inches.
Whether the shapes are recognizable and wearability are open to question. A more successful swatch, returning to the family, aiming for larger-scale shapes; the yarn is 2/20 wool, the elastic is a 280S cotton wrapped, the starting brick repeat is 24X52. Keeping in mind the respective functions of the black and white pixels, the image is color-inverted for use with the thread lace setting.
Side edges with non-selected needles will knit both yarns together from clean vertical columns, i.e., in this 56X104 repeat. The actual swatch was knit on fewer stitches on one side of 0 than the other, explaining the different side edges. If any needles were selected, they were pushed back to B manually before the next carriage pass. After some light steaming, the result is a bubbly texture that measures only 3 inches in width.

To mesh or not to mesh 11, combining large and standard eyelets

To mesh or not to mesh 10: more large eyelet variations provides a review of information in some of my previous posts, and links to information to achieve the combinations shared by others.
The direction of transfers is marked in many of my charts with cyan cells for transfers to the left, and magenta for those to the right.
In these knits, large eyelets are created by side-by-side transfers.
Two empty needles in standard transfer lace may indicate an error, or that the repeat needs to be mirrored, while here, if in testing these patterns, only single stitch eyelets are produced, they indicate the same.
The transfers resulting in side-by-side needles on which loops will form with the next knit carriage pass are circled. The next group of transfer selections will anchor the side-by-side loops.
The repeats mentioned as used on the 930 may need horizontal mirroring, depending on the machine model or the download software.
The 32X24 design produces a vertical column of small eyelets on a field of larger ones.  The eyelet placements are planned this way, but the full repeat, 32X24, needed mirroring horizontally for use on the 930The work on the machine: after the side-by-side transfer in opposite directions is made, there will be a loop on each empty needle hook. The usual second pass with the knit carriage repeats the loop formation, and the first pair of loops is dropped. The choice can be made to keep the dropped loops, forming visual ladders, or to lift them onto the hooks so that when they are secured by the next pair of transfers, the edges of the eyelets form cleaner rounds.
Here, the dropped loops are undisturbed.
A potential troublesome spot is those loops getting hung up on gate pegs, so a light color is useful when first experimenting. As the return to transfers is made, the transferred stitches will anchor down the side-by-side loops as new double transfers are executed.   Vertical columns formed by small eyelets on a large eyelet ground, mirrored for use on 930 to this 32X24. Vertical column formed by large eyelets on a chevron ground, for knit side borders of any size, cast on a larger number of needles than in the width of your programmed lace repeat, here a 24X32 repeat is centered on 32 stitches, as used on the 930. Creating shapes: in Seasonal knits inspired by published repeats 2_hearts, 36X88,  used a combination of large mesh and single transfers to create the heart shape. 

 

To mesh or not to mesh 10: reviewing mock filet designs

One of the many differences between automated machine-knit transfer lace and hand-knit lace is that the alternate direction of transfers in machine-knit lace occurs after the first is completed and followed by knit rows separating the eyelets, so there is always a slight shift in horizontal lines formed by them.
In hand-knitting or when stitches are manually transferred in both directions on the machine before knitting any additional rows, the appearance is noticeably different to purists and closer to hand-knit.
To truly match some of the transfers, stitches need to be removed from their respective needles, and other stitches are placed on the empty needles before the removed stitch is restored to its place. That is not an automatic function, but an added hand technique.
Changes in aspect ratio are often accompany knit structures and are seen in lace as well, more noticeable when one begins to use representational motifs, as in these recent cases, flowers.
There are so many sources available for designs, one need not necessarily build motifs from scratch, and they can be made more personal with modifications.
After choosing the base mesh, math may be used to change the scale of the superimposed shape.
Using small designs to test differences in results, one way to simply change the result is to multiply the height of the original shape by X3, with or without also doubling its width, thus approaching the 4X6 ratio often attributed to knit stitches other than garter.
The designs are programmed as fair isle in electronic models, which often automatically mirror the design horizontally.
Ways to modify electronic and punch card published transfer lace designs 6/26 returned to a partial image of a card used in 2011 as a mock filet mesh with traditional LC operation from the left side.
For the bse mesh, the LC makes 2 passes for transfers to the left, 4 passes for transfers to the right, each sequence is followed by two knit rows using the knit carriage operating from the right.
With the punchard located, the repeat was rebuilt using Mac Numbers, and a combination of ArahPaint and Gimp to reproduce the 24X162 file as a PNG. A 24X84 segment was, in turn, isolated, drawn in brick repeat, 24X168.  The swatch, tested on 60 stitches, helps to determine whether other DIY arrangements, i.e., widening the repeat or altering the edges of the shapes for use only on electronic machines, should be made.
For some reason, the yarn used, which had posed no problem in recent swatches, was particularly cranky in transfers. The swatch has several dropped stitches.Using a random flower design from a published source, 18X20 multiplied X2 in height and width, 36X40 4X6 brush fill to use as a background on a 60X60 canvas offers 2 choices, one can be to copy and paste the enlarged flower onto the mesh grid with the white color to alpha,  the other to lock the magenta color, and superimpose copy and paste the 60X60 mesh ground file onto it, not anchoring it in place until the preferred position is found.
36X40 The magenta shape is then bucket-filled with white.
Either method will require some cleanup to reach a programmable, final file size. In this case, for a 60X60 BW PNG.
When tested and drawn in repeat, followed by the decision to bring flower shapes closer together, cropping the design to 44X60 with a couple of shifted pixels in the center of the flower to keep the direction of all transfers the same across horizontal eyelet rows, and then tested.  Different distribution of the shapes: an untested brick repeat, 44X120,  and a half drop 88X60.  Changing the aspect ratio of the flower, an 18X20 slightly different design is multiplied in width by 2, in height by 3, to 36X60,   and superimposed on the 60X60 mesh ground with magenta bucket filled with white,  the tested repeat cropped to 48X60, produces a slight change in overall appearance,  adding the change in scale to the list of potential choices in DIY designs, if larger repeats are preferred, this previews the brick version, but the half drop needs work. Early Brother electronic machines, i.e., the 910s, used mylar sheets.
Any programmed design was automatically mirrored horizontally to avoid having images, i.e., text, appear in the wrong orientation on the knit face. When looking at images that accompany files, the direction of the motifs in the program is the mirror of those shared in the accompanying swatch.
The charted image is what appears on the purl side, facing the knitter.
Some download programs will automatically mirror any file, adding to confusion as to whether that is required in some instances.
A way to test whether mirroring is again required in your software/machine model is to program the desired mesh, knit a small swatch, and there should be no side-by-side needle selection.
A simple button selection on electronic models can flip the image horizontally if needed. My preference is to alter the PNG and save it before programming it, to avoid errors in larger pieces, or later returns to the design, since I am not always the best note keeper.
From Brother Electroknit Lace Patterns 3, two larger-scale patterns that are published on a rectangular grid show the mirroring of the design in the final knit and the change in aspect ratio.
Conversions to BW PNGs

60X132120X132
The appearance of the edges of the knit stitch shapes takes on the more familiar look of their edges as seen in my own shared designs. 
60X120
120X120 Ancient magazines are easily found online for browsing and inspiration.
Now tired of flowers, this Knitking magazine published a pattern that included a sailboat design, which caught my eye. Visually, the card offered clues as to a possible problem with the mesh ground, but initially, the only change that was made was to the starting row, as seen on the BW chart on the right.Additional clues are also in the tiled 24X56 PNG, and here are those knit stripes breaking up the ground behind the sails. It is not possible to know whether errata were ever published for the card, or whether the outfit may even have been knit on an electronic model.
If there is a fondness for the design, the background can be adjusted to maintain a consistent mesh while keeping the punch card 24 stitch constraint.
A close-up of the garment’s texture. The new 24X54 mirrored design attempting to duplicate it.  The result allows for a closer look at eyelet placements and further editing based on their distribution if desired. Some of the historically related posts:
To mesh or not to mesh 15/11To mesh or not to mesh 2 5/11

To mesh or not to mesh 3 5/11

To mesh or not to mesh 4 5/11
To mesh or not to mesh 5 7/17 a collection of mesh design repeats To mesh or not to mesh 6: chevrons 6/20

Lace knitting tips, to mesh or not to mesh 7 7/20
To mesh or not to mesh 8: more Numbers meet Gimp 5/21
To mesh or not to mesh 9: more on mock filet design 12/21

Unconventional uses for punchcards 2: thread lace cards for “filet” mesh 8/17



More fabrics with knit bed tuck patterning 2

Tuck lace knits require specific needle arrangements to form properly.
Tucking on needles intended to be empty will keep building up loops in fixed locations, potentially resulting in interesting carriage jams and yarn formations.
End needle selection is canceled.
The following are typical published illustrations as found in punch card volumes.
The same repeats intended for tuck lace may be used in double bed work.
Cast on every needle, transfer stitches in the OOW locations down to the ribber, and proceed in pattern.
The reverse process, using patterns already established for double-bed work, can be tried for a more open single-bed tuck-lace knit.
Depending on the electronic machine model and the download software used, the pixel repeat match to the published punch cards may need mirroring horizontally.
Air knitting can be useful in determining needles to be taken out of work; they will not be selected in the same positions continually. Cast on every other needle, i.e., by chaining on every needle and dropping the chains in OOW needle locations, cancel end needle selection.
If the goal is to evaluate what happens with frequent color changes, a start can be made with the first preselection row from right to left toward it.
An alternative way to plan the designs is to repeat/ mark the same selections once more aside them in all blank needles out of work columns, making their use independent of needle placements on the machine bed. The smallest, altered repeat, tested every other needle on 48 stitches, and produces a fairly dense, reversible knit. Any of the following arrangements can be planned for asymmetrical or random arrangements of all components as well, once the stitch structure is understood.
Returning to one of the repeats shared in the post on more fabrics with knit bed tuck patterning (1), which originated with the starting published design, 24X48,   then modified by adding blank cell vertical columns for an isolated 10X24 repeat, the related chart and PNG. A chart with the intended transfers down to the ribber represented by magenta cells, and the tested 63X48 PNG.  The yarn used is Merino wool. This is a modified needle count and arrangement with tuck columns 7 stitches wide to accommodate ladders represented by cyan cells in the chart; extra black cells were added for knit stitch side edges. The 62X48 test PNG, used in the top swatch below. The repeat, adjusted for 5 stitch tuck columns, and its 61X48 PNG, knit-tested in the bottom of the image.  A repeat knit test of both, showing the transition in the needle arrangements in a different colorway. This yarn is a 2/18 alpaca and silk blend.
The part of the swatch with stitches transferred to the ribber measures 2+ inches wider than the ladder sample following it, 9.5 inches, as opposed to 7.25.Previous blog posts with added single-bed-related techniques and repeats:
Tuck trims 4 and other edgings
Tuck lace trims and fabrics 3
Tuck lace trims and fabrics 2
Tuck “lace” trims and fabrics 1
“Crochet” meets machine knitting techniques: tuck lace trims and fabrics 1
“Crochet” meets machine knitting techniques: tuck lace trims or fabrics 2

 

One repeat explored in many ways

Questions as to how to design for specific knit structures or how to use randomly found repeats appropriately turn up regularly in forums.
A review of punch card repeats found in downloadable volumes, which provides clues as to the suitability of random finds for different techniques, can be found in  Punch cards to electronics: book symbols and samples.
This post began with a random published find from an electronic pattern book. The initial goal was simply to evaluate and play with the design, and then it evolved into a project growing in size as more ideas were sparked for added swatches. the match, 24X3648X72 is potentially usable for
1: knitting as FI, with a wide maximum float of 9 stitches, which would merit control
2: thread lace, both yarns knit white pixels, the thin yarn forms the stitch on the knit side, the thicker yarn floats behind it
3: knit weaving, deciding whether to manipulate the long floats that are formed intermittently
4: tuck stitch, must be color inverted, white pixels form tuck loops for 1, 2, and 3 rows in various spots in the design.DIY editing of the first repeat, seeking uniformity, eliminating rows, and shifting pixels for added possibilities.  24X24in full repeat X2, 48X48doubled in height, 48X96 color inverted, 48X96potentially knittable doubled in height once more, test with thin yarn, 48X192tested single bed for 60 rows, an obvious change in texture and aspect ratio. Single bed using the original, color-inverted file, 48X72. The yarn is a 2/20 wool; the resulting stitches are open enough to allow the dark bleeding through from the background to influence the appearance of its color. The swatch measures 7.25 inches in width.  Double bed
The knit carriage is set to tuck in both directions, the ribber to knit in both for what is often called pintuck or punch tuck rib. The knit lies flat and is “reversible”. Using the same number of stitches and knit tension as the above, this swatch measures 10.75 inches.  With the tuck stitch file easily color-reversed on the electronic, the knit carriage set to slip in both directions, and the ribber to knit in one, slip in the other, the density and width of the resulting knit change significantly.
Punchcard knitters would need to punch a second card.
Blisters are formed on the knit side while stitches on the ribber become elongated when slipped.
As the knit carriage returns to the left and skips needles, floats are formed to a max of 9 needle spaces, and eventually form pockets in the white pixel areas. As the ribber knits in one direction, it slips in the other, and stitches become elongated until they knit once more. The yarn needs to be able to tolerate being held for the necessary number of rows without breaking. The swatch measures just under 5 inches in width, although worked on the same number of needles as the tuck samples.
Some of the color difference is due to a change in natural light, but also to less bleed-through of the background as a result of the fabric density. As double bed knitters know, several inches of knitting happen before you can crawl under the machine or get creative with a mirror and/ or + lighting, to see whether you are actually knitting the intended pattern. This design, using the same yellow yarn with the added blue yarn of the same weight, and the same carriage tensions as for other double bed samples, made it hard to see whether anything but stripes was being produced while on the machine. The bottom of the swatch was knit with striper backing, the ribber set to N/N, and measures 6.5 inches in width. The top was knit with birdseye backing, using both lili buttons, the ribber set to slip in both directions, and measures 5.75 inches in width.
The color placement for background or design can simply be chosen by which color knits first, so either the color-reversed or the original repeat may be programmed. Original 48X72Single bed
This swatch was knit using the thread lace setting, and two slippery yarns, a rayon and a nylon thread of an unknown brand. Serger monofilament is an option, but my supply is multiple decades old and broke easily halfway up the first repeat. Testing large swatches and blocking them in the same manner as the finished piece would serve as guides in making choices.
End selection needle is canceled, but if end needles are brought out to D as part of the pattern design, they need to be pushed back to the B position manually before the next row is knit.
Width comparison does not apply, since the tension required was double that used in the other swatches.
There are less common applications when choosing designs. For example, the same repeat was tested to create a single-bed lace transfer design, with a single row knit after the transfers in each design row have been completed. It finally took using a 4th yarn to get the stitches to knit properly, unlikely something I would knit in a large piece, but it helps to understand what happens with reversals of directions in the mesh.  An explanation of the technique, with added swatch samples and designs, may be found in the post Unconventional uses for punchcards 2: thread lace cards for “filet” mesh 
The slip stitch double bed blister knit was shown previously, using the starting 48X72 repeat. Here is a double bed version, using the plaiting feeder and with the knit carriage set for thread lace. The results differ with placing the yarns in alternative positions, and both swatches measure 9.75 inches in width.

 

 

 

Pinterest inspirations vs implementation, tuck and lace combos 2

This post will be a growing companion to Pinterest inspirations vs implementation, tuck and lace combos 1, addressing designing repeats for automation of such designs on electronic machines.
Lace transfers made in the same direction will lead to the knit biasing in that direction.
Reversing the direction of the transfers at intervals will balance some of that bias.
In the post on A return to lace with automated patterning, adding color striping, the LC transfers were charted moving diagonally as well,   achieving this result.  In this inspiration source, the transfers are made in rectangular blocks.  Assigning symbols and BW fill to cells in turn,  expanding the repeat following arrow markings pointing to the LC selections and transfers in the correct directions.  The single repeat, 20X42.   In the bottom design rows 1-13, the LC makes 2 passes followed by 2 rows knit, in the top 14-41 rows, 4 LC passes are followed by 2 rows knit.
The test knit on 51 stitches.  The side knit borders are 2 and 3 stitches, respectively. Next to the 2-stitch one, the eyelets are slightly compressed, appearing smaller than those next to the 3-stitch border.
There are charts worked out for fully automated tuck and lace combinations using both the LC and the KC to tuck.
Many are published in the Brother punchcard volume #5, but
they are not usable as provided in electronic machines.
The punch card machines repeat selection when the patterning carriage is retrieved for use from the opposite side.
The final charts in the DIY electronic versions will appear quite different, and although they may still be in repeat widths suitable for punch card machines, they are not interchangeable.
Electronic models advance the design for a row with each pass of carriages set for pattern knitting.
An idea using similar, alternating loop and lace diagonal shapes. In terms of fabric qualities, tuck stitch is short and wide, and lace tends more to long and wide.
Casting on and binding off may need to be adjusted to be looser in final projects.
Jumping right to the use of black and white pixels, following the arrows to track movements of both carriages to achieve the 24X36 final repeat.
Two all-knit rows occur after completing tuck segments, avoiding LC attempts at transfers containing tuck loops far beyond LC tolerance, capable of producing interesting LC carriage jams:  The swatch was tested on 50 stitches.  My seemingly endless supply of white yarn has reached its end, hence the color change and restart. As usual, the tuck texture is more evident on the purl side.  These were published in a Japanese knitting magazine from the late 80s, with accompanying symbol charts. Counting up from the bottom, it looks as though they were intended for use in Brother models, with row 1 marked 7 rows up on the right of the proposed punch cards.    Tentative planning in a spreadsheet for each repeat with arrows indicating the respective carriage movements.
The first preselection row is from left to right, and both begin with tuck patterning.
Testing the first 24X28 designquickly identified a problem area where already formed tuck loops with added yarn from the lace transfers try to meet more tuck loops. Cyan T cells represent tuck loops, the magenta cells the loops formed when emptied needles are brought back into work as the next row is knit. 1: The first pair of tuck loops is complete,
2: and meet the pair of lace transfers stitches to the left and to the right.
3: When needles emptied by the lace transfers are advanced to knit, the center needle between them is meant to tuck once more, but refused to do so with the next all-knit pass.
Often, the limit for the number of stitches or loops on any one needle to knit off properly on 4.5 mm machines is 4, unless the yarn is thin. A solution is to add an all-knit row to the design repeat, marked with blue cells. The amended design, drawn in repeat, checking alignments, programmed on 48X28 for test knitting, and mirrored horizontally on the 930enabled sorting out likely places to watch for any added issues, i.e., location and reasons for any dropped stitches. The second repeat, tested on 48X52, with the pair of added all knit row as above, still posed issues;   all-knit rows between the lace transfers must be programmed for execution by the knit carriage traveling from right to left and back to its home on the right.  Programmed 48X52Test knitting required mirroring on the 930

More tuck and Lace combos:
Lace meets tuck on Brother machines
Tuck stitch/ combination fabrics
Large diagonal eyelet lace
Combining tuck stitches with lace 2 (automating them)
Combining tuck stitches with lace 1

 

Color separations meet Gimp rows color invert and custom scripts

This will be another work-in-progress post, a rough draft.
It is released early and will receive frequent edits and additions.
I have just begun to exchange information with two individuals, with the intended possible outcome resulting in providing Vibe coded scripts for GIMP or free online generators to automate the desired separations.
“Vibe coding” is an approach where an AI generates code from natural language prompts.

The goal is to include and consider punchcard machine users, meeting the limitations of stitch width where motifs must fit together within the 24-stitch limit, so individually they must be composed of factors of that number: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, and 24.
Each card height, to feed properly,  requires a minimum of 36 rows punched for continuous designs. Cards not on rolls are a standard 60 rows in height, multiple cards may be joined together if needed.
Needle selection is centered and fixed on the needle bed.
Added info is found in  Brother KMs: punchcards and their use.

I learned about machine knitting from what others presented during international and local seminars at the height of the craft, or published in magazines and hardbound editions. Stitch Painter with BitKnitter and DAK were at their inception.
Susanna Lewis has always been a personal favorite and a huge influence.
As time went on, I became interested in processing much larger files using whatever tools I became aware of in image processing or paint programs to generate patterns for producing the fabric I wanted to knit.
As a machine knitter, any charts or files I shared often began with numbering on the right and from the bottom up in Excel.
Row numbering on the right was a convention in blank punchcards and published charts; transfer lace passes added numbers and symbols on the left.
An added consideration in charting: while in 2-needle hand knitting, the work is turned over upon completion of each row, so charts are read in turn from the right and then from the left when purl rows are included in the chart. Knitting on the machine is fixed unless there is hand manipulation, ie, with a garter bar, and the knitter’s view is only of the purl side. In automated punched or downloadable patterns, every row is commonly represented, including punched holes with blank squares or black and white pixels.
Electronic models have a double-height button; in punchcard models, the card lock lever can be pushed back to the long triangle position.
I avoid elongation in long pieces, finding it easier to track unraveled rows to return to the proper program row and color when any errors or stitch mishaps occur.
Although the majority of my designing is now using ArahPaint, Gimp became my early go-to as a companion to spreadsheet programs, first Excel, then Mac Numbers.
Presently I have returned to using Gimp 2.10, finding the later 2 updates unpredictable when working with 8-bit images.
There are added baseline considerations in color separations, for example, the initial file must contain an even number of rows.
Experiments are beginning with black and white indexed images, and the goal is to conclude the process with PNGs in that same mode.

Mosaic color separations are different from those for DBJ.
The knit, also known as floatless fair isle to machine knitters, aims to have floats usually no wider than 2 stitches and for only one color, as opposed to 2 with each pass of the carriage in fair isle.
It is executed with color changes every two rows and cam buttons set to the tuck or slip stitch setting in both directions.
Two classic references: hand knitting for 24 and 40 stitch machines. In mosaics and maze conversion, the original file is not rendered double height before being separated. In other knit structures, the original file is commonly doubled in height before the separation, solving by default the even # row requirement.
Aside from the automatic color separation and what comprises the original file input, ie, indexed BW mode and an even number of rows, depending on the manual separation, the actual file on completion of the separation may need to be altered again before knitting, doubled in height.
The last double height can be achieved by altering the separated PNG before downloading it to electronic models. Symbols for that vary depending on machine or model year, in this case, 910 houses and trees, #4. The 950i  uses ships, but the button placements are in the same positions, and perform the same tasks, or the placement of the card lock lever in punchcard machines. I prefer punching or programming repeats that do not require the built-in elongation selections. Returning to specific rows after interruptions in knitting or correcting patterning errors during it are easier to track.
Whether the color separations are performed manually or with automated tools, the prerequisite is that the input file aligns properly when tiled. Often, published designs have added rows that will double when drawn in repeat, solved by cropping rows at the top and at one side, as addressed in other blog posts.

Using Gimp color invert.
A starting file,  used repeatedly in previous posts on mosaic knitting, 12X18.A brief review of DIY steps involved, taken for granted when performed unseen by software, follows.
The expected results can be visualized by tiling the repeat in Gimp using Filters> Map> Tile, and entering a multiple of the design, accepting the default ratio 120X180, or breaking the chain and entering a second number, ie, 126. The view of a magnified segment.  When working with Gimp, rectangle select, the aspect ratio can be set to the width of the repeat, 12, and 1 for the height of the selection.
Hold down the shift key to process the whole image beginning at the top left and continuing on every odd-numbered row.
The handles and dotted lines appear as one moves down toward the bottom. If a selection error is made moving down, while still pressing on the shift key, select edit, undo to remove the selection. The reversal takes place by choosing Colors > Invert only on selected rows after release of the shift key. With every other odd-numbered row selected and inverted,  the 3 images on the left show the separation, and the last on the right shows the separated file scaled to double height, which is actually needed to knit the mosaic successfully. When selectively scaling, ie, only for height, check that the chain is broken, and interpolation is selected/ changed to None. The change can be made permanent by altering the Tool Options default interpolation in program settings. The 12X36 file is ready to knit and is also shared in repeat. The first preselection row is from right to left, and the color changer.

This repeat for a larger design, 38X34, was separated using the custom filter, with the knit-ready result, 38X68, obtained in a single step

A design that combines the mosaic grid work with the straight horizontal design found in mazes began with a 26X26 repeat, followed by rotations and additions of a 26X20 partial repeatresulted in a 66X24 PNG   that, when viewed tiled on the screen, looked OK   the single repeat, separated using the script,66X48, was swatched using the slip stitch setting.

Both tuck and slip shorten the end knit along the all knit stitches beside them, which in this case form wide horizontal stripes. Those stripes in turn become distorted, seen here at the top and bottom of the swatch; the degree of 3D effect depends on the ratio of slip or tuck counts to knit stitches.
The repeat adjusted to a slightly different alignment if I were to personally use it in a final piece, 66X26, separated to 66X52The question then becomes whether more is less.
The original 26X26 design, separated to 26X52, shown drawn in repeat X3, 78X52, was test-knit using the tuck setting. The yarns used are Silk City wool crepe purchased as seasonal remnants decades ago. Its fiber content is typically 80% wool and 20% manufactured fiber like rayon or viscose. The surface of the swatch is far more 3D than its slip stitch relative. Returning to a 2015 post on working with online generated mazes, and the selection with the isolated repeat, 14X34rendered in BW the script “mosaic” separation,  14X68color inverted for knitting using either tuck or slip stitch setting. The sample, knit in tuck stitch for 134 rows, measures 9.25 inches in height.

DOUBLE JACQUARD
The abridged view of the same steps in the separation for knitting the original 12X18 row design as DBJ, where each color in each design row knits twice.  

The final file is composed of pairs of identical rows.
The process begins with the original image doubled in height, in this instance,  to 12X36.  Every alternate row is color-inverted, and then doubled in height for knitting to 12X72

12X72The first preselection row is from right to left, toward the color changer in Japanese KM models.
Because each color in each design row knits twice, the design is very elongated, even when knit with birdseye backing. The random color choice was not the best in the related sample. If the goal then becomes to have each color knit only once to reduce aspect ratio distortion, or if other knit stitch structures and combinations are planned, additional processing is required.
For strictly 2-color knitting, with BW starting images, electronic knitting machines automate each pixelated BW row for knitting each color only once per row with the flick of a button, generally labeled KRC.
The starting side for the preselection row is from left to right.
The 2 rows for the first color are split between the top and bottom of the programmed repeat.
The actions performed automatically: In the post ArahPaint in knit design 6: color separation,  this suggested method proved faulty when tested here. The result shows the dramatic difference in scale when each color in each row knits only once, but there are noticeable white stitches that are breaking vertical red lines, not intended and not the result of a programming error. Analyzing the result: the first and last row of the design are unaffected by the separation, and when knitting lengths, that same design row will repeat twice.
This proposed method shifts the first design row to the top, maintaining the 12X36 dimensions, and is then color-inverted, rendering a 12X36 file that is ready to knit. The first preselection row is from right to left toward the color changer.
regrouping, 12X36 with the bottom row shifted to the top, the separation, also 12X36The steps in the separation
1: the original image, 12X18
2: the original doubled in height, 12X36
3: move the bottom row to the top of the repeat, still 12X36
4: as an optional guide, a column was added on the right, increasing the width to 13 pixels, marking pairs of rows to be inverted. The added pixels were originally red; when color inversion was used, they were also converted to blue pixels
5: number 4 with the blue and white pixel column removed, the ready-to-knit repeat, also 12X36. The swatch is knit using birdseye backing, an added technique that helps to maintain the aspect ratio of the original design.
The visible extra white loops on the side are due to yarn feeds in mast issues that have gotten added to my list of “well, I have not run into this before!”  

Duplicating the KRC model, with added changes, but the same result: the hand-selection method to illustrate the color invert steps, from left to right: the 8X8 PNG start,
rendered double height to 8X16,
with the bottom row moved to the top,
the separation illustrated with marks for the placement of the inverted rows in blue,
and the knittable final repeat, 8X16Sample color separated using a Vibe-Coded script to obtain the 8X16 result:
the goal is to knit each color in each design row only once, matching the electronic automated electronic KRC selection, with a critical difference: the preselection row is from the right, followed by color changes every 2 rows. Testing a larger design repeat, 43X44color separated to 43X88knit with birdseye backing, with preselection starting from the right

More to ponder: the method used to have each design row knit twice produces files that can be altered again in double bed work for other stitch structures, or used as they are in single bed slip stitch that knits carrying one color at a time for 2 rows.

Reviewing charts for different separations, including use of more than 2 colors: depending on the published source, sometimes letters are assigned, others numbers, and they sometimes differ in identification sequences.
Continuing with Double bed separations, the longest to execute manually, while considering different stitch structures: