Category: Hand Techniques

Ladder back double jacquard: backing variations

Periodically questions come up with regards to how to manage float control other than using familiar DBJ settings, or the best way to proceed to achieve it when one prefers to work in thicker yarns.  In this technique, all main bed needles are in use for patterning and in working position, the ribber needles can be arranged in nearly any configuration in groups with 1 needle in work, and one or more needles out of work. The main bed tension is close to what would normally be used for a single bed fair isle, while the ribber is set at least one or two whole tension numbers tighter, thus reducing bleed through or vertical separation lines on the “outside” of the knit. The fabric uses less yarn than every needle rib DBJ, is lighter in weight, has more stretch, but will not lie as flat. In Brother, if needles are arranged in groups of 2 (pairs of lines and spaces on the needle tape with even spacing between them (i.e. 2 X2, 4X4, 2X4, etc) then lili buttons can be used. The latter method has less chance of the backing showing as a vertical line/ separation on the pattern surface. Sometimes the ribber needle arrangement may result in a secondary, interesting pattern on the purl side. It is still a good idea to have floats that are limited in width, generally less than 5 stitches. For the purposes of illustration, I knit 2-row stripes on the main bed, while altering settings on the ribber.
This was my initial setup. The ribber needle tape is marked in what I think of as dashes and blanks, in continuous pairs. When using single ribber needles for the ladderback, the number of out of work needles may be even or odd between the ones in work

As each row is knit the ribber will pick up yarn, or not, depending on carriage settings, creating a knit stitch vertical chain on the purl side of the knit 
If empty needles are simply brought in to work above plain knit rows, eyelets will be created. One way to reduce their size would be to pick up loops between stitches on the main/ opposite bed and use them to œcast on your ribber needles. With ribber carriage set to knit in both directions, each color will knit with each pass of the carriages (2).
With it set to knit in one direction, slip in the other, each color will knit on the ribber for a single pass, slipped in the opposite direction, and the slipped stitch becomes elongated (3). Having a needle in work on the ribber close to the edge of the knit may help reduce the roll along that edge (4). A slight separation may appear on the knit side in the location of the vertical columns created by the ribber stitches, it is less apparent when ribber knits on every other row  It is possible to only have one of the 2 colors knitting on the purl side. In my case, it was white knits, blue slips. Here the ribber carriage settings need to be changed with each color change, so for white I used

for the blue

Setting up for using lili buttons: needles need to be in pairs, each with a matching “dash and a blank”, even number of out of work needles in between them. My previous set up required a bit of moving stitches around
 ribber is set to slip both ways, lili buttons engaged With the above settings, the needle on the right of each pair will catch the yarn on the pass to the right, the needle on the left of each pair will pick up the yarn on the way back to the color changer. Stitches are elongated because they are slipping alternately for one row, and are slightly offset from each other with a bit of a “jog”  because they are not knitting on the same pass. This is noticeable in lili backed full DBJ as well. The color change from blue to pink is simply because I ran out of blue yarn. My ribber stitches should have been tighter throughout, but even in this tension situation, the knit side has the least noticeable vertical separation along vertical column edges in the series of tests The technique may be used on any machine. This sample was knit on a Passap, using one of the patterns built into the console, pushers 2 up, 2 down for long stitch alternating color vertical lines, fixed distances between them, BX <–/LX, Tech 179.Similar backing may be produced on the Brother machine, but now a hand technique is involved. The ribber remains set to slip <– –> throughout, no lili buttons. The spacing may be chosen on the basis of the interaction with the main bed motif, or in a different configuration for each color, making the hand technique easier to track. Needles are brought to E position on the ribber for each row to be knit in that color. Here the different colors are easily identified

the ribber settings

There are 2 options: one is for bringing appropriate needles to the E position for each color only once. I chose to do so immediately after each color change, with carriages on the left (below dots). The other is to bring them to E for the second pass of the carriages on their way back to the color changer as well (above dots). There is elongation in stitches in both options, less so when each color knits on the ribber for 2 consecutive rows, where one short and one longer stitch for each color may be observed. The first option also caused a bit of puckering on the knit side, which disappeared with pressing.

the reverse side 

Similar ideas, playing with the configuration of color blocks on either or both beds, can result in applique, embossed jacquard including pleats, and a whole range of other double bed knit fabric variations. A quick sample with transfers between beds

Lastly, here is a tiny swatch in an arrangement beginning to explore the odd number of needles in work on the ribber in conjunction with the use of  lili buttons and adding needles to “fool the machine” as described in the post

 

“Crochet” meets machine knitting techniques: tuck lace trims or fabrics 2

There have been several previous posts on “crochet” like stitches and “tuck lace”, this is another variant. The needles need to be arranged as in the diagrams below. After the first preselection row, the carriage is set to tuck

the full punchcard T= areas where tuck loops will occur, K = knit columns, o = NOOW, the red line the 0 mark on the needle tape

Every 5 rows, after the tuck loops are knit together (illustrated in repeats on far left), the formed stitch (single black square) is transferred in turn to the right and then to left; this works out happily so that transfers may always be made toward the knit carriage.
The sole repeat (all that would be required on a mylar) is 4 stitches wide, 5 rows high. The number of needles used needs to be planned so that there is a knit stitch on either end of the piece. This is accomplished by using a repeated multiple of 4 + 1, so one side of the 0 mark has an even number of stitches, the other an odd (4+1=5). Ayab software requires that the repeat is programmed across the width of the fabric, so the final design would be a variant of this, my sample was worked on 20 left, 17 right. Non selected needles form tuck loops until they are knit together every 5th row

If you prefer to work with the top repeat programmed, then transfers will need to be made on each side of the non-selected needles to get the proper configuration. If programmed with the bottom repeat, then and every other needle cast on is fine. I generally stay away from combs and weights if I can, but this is a fabric that benefits by evenly distributed weight, a cast-on comb with weights added to it is a good idea. In the absence of any, start with waste yarn and ravel cord, thread a thin knitting needle or wire through the knit, and hang evenly spaced weights on that. Follow with your preferred cast on, and knitting in pattern. 

The swatch as it appears on the purl side (traditional “public side” for tuck stitch). The bottom 4 repeats show what the fabric looks like before one intervenes with the hand technique

its knit side and a bit closer a few more

in early publications combinations of lace and tuck, creating a large scale mesh were also referred to as mock crochet

Bowknot/ Butterfly stitch on the machine

A recent Pinterest post got me searching out some of the fabrics in this group. In hand knitting, floats creating the butterflies/ bowknots are usually apparent on the knit side. For two such patterns please see http://www.knittingstitchpatterns.com/2014/11/butterfly-bowknots.html

http://www.knittingstitchpatterns.com/2015/04/butterfly.html

https://handlife.ru/vazanie/obemnyy-uzor.html caught my attention. Here we have a combination of knit and purl stitches, with floats formed on the purl side, making the fabric or a “cousin” of it possible on the machine This is my first experiment with gathered slip stitch floats on the purl side of the knit. To begin, this chart indicates one punchcard pattern’s full repeat in width.  Four repeats in length would be required (the punchcard minimum repeat in length to achieve smooth continuous card feeding is 36 rows). Punch out blue squares, leaving white ones unpunched. A single repeat (outlined in black, 8 stitches by 12 rows) is for use in electronic patterning, where one may alternately draw or program white squares, then use color reverse.  The red line represents 0 needle position in Brother KM

Pitch on H5, ribber needles are centered between main bed ones, so the “knot” width, represented by white squares, can be even in number. Begin with the first needle left of 0 (red line) in the work position, continue across ribber bed with every 4th needle in work

The main bed knits in a slip stitch pattern for 4 rows, then knits 2 rows across all stitches. Floats are created every blank row throughout, composing the knots or butterflies. The ribber is set to knit (N,<–>N, will pick up stitches only on selected needles.
The fabric is a slip stitch one, so it will be short and narrow. That is something to be considered when planning cast on, bind off, and beginning and ending edges of the piece.
In Japanese machines, a ribber comb is recommended. If casting on the single bed, start with waste yarn, poke the comb through that, and proceed as you would for any other rib fabric.

My sample is knit on a 910, with white squares drawn. This is what happens when you forget to color reverse. The all-blue squares now became “white”, so those 2 rows were slipped, not knit, bringing float repeats closer together the result with color reverse working out a mylar, electronic (unless DM 80 40 stitch width is in use) repeat for a variation of the fabric knit single bed. The stitch count is odd,  allowing for a center stitch manipulation. KCI is used to make certain the first and last needles knit on each side. Floats created close to edges may be left without hooking them up. The fabric separates slightly along the “bowknot”  edges because color-reverse is used, blue squares in chart slip, create floats when Rows 6 and 12 are reached respectively, that single square becomes a non- selected needle, and pick up those floats with any preferred tool lift them up and onto that single non selected needle, push that needle out to hold
with the next pass the single needle and loops knit off together and become part of the alternating all knit block in the design
the swatches are knit in a 2/15 wool, the fabric might be better served using a thicker yarn. Here the “blocks” creating  “floats” are side by side

For another single bed cousin in different weight yarn, please see the previous post 

Fabrics worked on the single bed with groups of pulled-up stitches on the purl side will have some distortion of the stocking stitch side depending on the weight of yarn used, the number of rows hooked up, and stitch type. Working on the opposite bed to create the floats produces a more balanced fabric.

My charts often evolve. This may be done on graph paper if there is no access to the software. I began adding a space between each block, thinking about those knit stitches I wanted to create on the purl ground, hooking stitches up on red squares adding border stitches, and more theory on the placement of stitch type
the result places “knit” stitches in the center of butterfly (magenta arrow), not at its sides, and I see and extra purl stitch (green arrow). Multiple stitch-wide borders create unwanted floats on one side
back to the drawing board and working things out first as a hand technique

I began with my carriage on the right (COR), after setting up the repeat on a multiple of 6 stitches +3 as indicated above. The last stitch on either side on both beds is never transferred, and the short loops of every other set (rows 5 and 17 in the chart) are not hooked up. This will produce a slightly rolled edge on each side. The larger number of border stitches becomes problematic. The photos were taken while knitting 2 different swatches, so needle tape markings are not the same in all photos. To produce the circular knit, opposite part buttons are pushed in so with carriage on the right (COR), the settings would be

Cast on in any preferred method, ending with all stitches on the ribber Configure main bed needles as illustrated in a stand-alone setup row at the bottom of the chart With carriages traveling from right to left, the main bed knits on those single needles, creating floats between them and the ribber slips. When carriages travel from left to right, only the ribber knits, and the main bed slips. Here the carriages have traveled to the left, and back to the right 
With row counter (RC) set to 000 at the start of the knit, hand techniques occur on RC 5, 11, 17, 23, 29, and so on. Hooking up loops and transferring stitches between beds always occur with carriages on the left (COL). On those rows, the floats are hooked up on the center needle of the 5 empty groups. In this photo, the ribber is dropped to show what is happening on each bed. The last stitches on each bed are not moved, and those short floats, when created on completion of alternate repeat top halves, are not hooked up after the three floats have been hooked up, with COL each time, the in-between main bed stitches are transferred back down to ribberCOL: be sure when hooking up floats that all in the series are picked up. The space between the beds is fairly narrow, and the tool used is purely preference-based. Shifting the main bed needles forward will provide a visual check for loop count as you go. I bring needles with multiple loops out to hold before transferring to the ribber, and then also the transferred stitches on the ribber out to hold to ensure they will all knit on the next pass from left to right. Patterning occurs on every 6th needle on both beds, except border stitch groups

this is the needle arrangement/position in my final swatch, knit in 2/8 wool, COR

So what can be automated in the process? The knit bed needs to work the stitches that form floats every other row, while the card or mylar need to advance every row. Trying patterns out as an all-hand technique helps determine tolerance on the part of the machine and the degree of patience available. With thinner yarn, the fabric would be more compressed, and maneuvering stitches more frequently to achieve similar finished size knits, so I switched to a thicker yarn. I found more than 3 rows of floats were too hard for me to manage successfully.  “Air knitting” to determine the placement of knitting on any bed before patterning helps determine the number of needles in use, especially if edge needle placement or count matters: here is the first pass using my mylar  eliminating needles to any desired width, leaving only one needle in work on each side of selected needle each bed for this fabric reducing main bed count so only one needle is left on either side of a selected one that needle (green arrow, gets transferred down to ribber now the number of needles involved on both beds is evident on both beds

While knitting in the pattern the ribber pitch is set on P (point to point) to keep stitches on opposing beds centered (P pitch also makes it easier to transfer directly from one bed to the other). If the cast-on is for every other needle rib with stitches then transferred between beds for pattern knitting set up, the cast-on and all rib rows need to be knit in H pitch, with a switch to P for transfers and knitting in pattern to be completed. With the first row set up on the selected segment of the needle bed, there are additional steps to take.

This is my working repeat. Since it is 6 stitches wide, it could be worked out on a punchcard, punching out all black squares. On my mylar, I marked yellow squares only, with no color reverse
To work consistently with the method described in the larger chart, the first row was manually set up on both beds preparing for the pattern with COL: change knob set to KCII (cancel end needle selection, not every needle in work on the main bed), KC set to slip <–>, so non selected needles slip with each pass of the carriages, advancing the mylar or card one row. The ribber set to N/N or as below will knit from left to right. Pre-selection row is made traveling to the right, ribber only knits

With COR: set RC (row counter) to 000. Make certain proper part (slip) buttons are engaged. MB knits in the pattern based on selected needles, ribber knits when moving from left to right. The fabric is tubularHand techniques will now also occur when carriages are on the left, on RC 5, 11, etc as described in the hand technique chart, on rows with no needle selection. As in hand tech, transfers and multiple loops containing needles are brought out to hold before moving the carriages from left to right and selecting the needles for the next set of floats with that same pass.

This is my resulting fabric, hand tech shown, the short mylar test above was cropped

Revisiting knit “bubbles” brother KM

Sometimes months or even years go by before I revisit previous posts. As I review the information, it may occur to me to think about it further, and /or to present it in a slightly different way. I find it hard to believe how much time has passed since 2013/09/06/more-knit-bubbles/ got published.  Here is another way to look at the fabric on Brother KM. Since I knit on a punchcard model or a 910 electronic one, I will refer to pattern repeats in terms of punched holes or black squares.

Bubbles and drop stitch lace share some of the same principles, the effect is created by stitches that are larger than others. Slip stitch setting can be used to automate needle selection. Black squares or punched holes will knit, unpunched areas or white squares will not, with needles left in the B position. Brother preselects needles for the next row of knitting, so when combining hand techniques with needle selection, one has the option to intervene before the next row in the design is knit. Using the card or mylar to read row 1 of the design helps determine where on the needle bed to set up your repeats. In this instance, the ribber knits every stitch, every row, with one extra needle on the left (or more on each end if preferred) in addition to repeats # required to achieve the desired width. All needles are in work every row on both beds. Main bed knits in response to programming.
Working in multiple of repeat -1 on the top bed, plus one needle in work at each end on the ribber. Considerations need to be made to align the design properly. The markings on my metal bed are from a different project. The goal is this needle arrangement “air knitting” with carriage set to KC will help identify patterning repeats. Groups of 7 include a needle on each end which will be pushed back to A position in the body of the knit/ NOOW (needle out of work) indicated in the chart for the main bed needle setup the first selection row a needle on either side of the groups of 7 is pushed back to A position, remain there throughout the piecean extra needle is brought into work on the ribber on either side of repeat ends. Machine settings: main bed set to slip <->, ribber set to normal knit
the ribber has now been set up for knitting every needle, every row, with the caston and desired edging completed. The first row is selected on the main bed for pattern knitting. since there are needles out of work and pattern knitting is involved, if KCI is used or end needle selection is not canceled, the end needles on the areas being slipped will be selected to the knitting position, so patterning errors will occur. The first row knit on both beds is shown on the remaining needlesBrother knits a row while preselecting for the next one. Here the needles in B would slip/ not knit on the next row, and needles out to D (Brother skipped the letter C in needle positions) will knit. Before knitting that next row, stitches on the now non-selected needles should be dropped across the bed this shows those stitches have been dropped, their needles are now empty, and returned to B position

end knitting with the same treatment as it bottom (swatch was simply dropped off).
It is possible with solid geometric shapes such as these to release stitches after each shape. The type of yarn used and loop behavior upon dropping stitches are variables that influence success in doing so (other swatches ).
An acrylic yarn was used: the first image is the fabric’s “relaxed view”.after steaming and pressing
the variation in width is due to adjustments in tension, the swatch folded over itself shows the difference in another way

Tuck lace trims and fabrics 2

Working between electronic and punchcard machines needs to take into account that repeats on a punchcard KM must be a factor of 24 (2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12). An electronic tuck stitch repeat may be any width.  Since the above is seven stitches wide, if punched accordingly it would occupy 21 out of 24 stitch units on a punchcard. As is unless those extra needles on the far right or left are left out of work for ladders or transferred down to the ribber, it would not be suitable for an all-over fabric. It can, however, be used for a trim. If the latter is the intent, only one series of vertical repeats as seen in the chart needs to be punched. The numbers below the image indicate Brother needle tape markings. The Brother needled tape has a center O position marking, with numbers beginning count with one and radiating out marked in groups of 5 in both directions. This is a 6-row tuck fabric, thinner yarns should be used if the pattern is automated, as tuck loops build up in needle hooks. If you wish to experiment with slightly thicker yarns, decrease the unpunched areas to 4 rows, or execute the repeat using holding. Held stitches sit on top of the needle shank, tolerance is determined by how many rows it either takes for knit stitches on sides of the loops jump off needles or accumulated loops in hooks or any stitches become unable to knit off consistently on the next all knit pass.
To test the yarn and repeat out, try the technique by using holding, then punch your card. Automating makes the process less prone to error and faster if great lengths of trim are needed. It is also possible to punch or program only the part of the card that is planned for the repeat. The single-width repeat may be programmed as pixels, on left, or punched holes on right. In electronics a single 8-row repeat is adequate, punchcard knitters repeat 5 times to 40 pattern rows punched. I prefer starting such designs on a knit row. To do that, the design repeat start may be shifted Using the trim as the cast on edge for a garment: determine the length required after a technique test. Knit a bit extra and remove on waste yarn, so more may be added or some be unraveled if needed or you wish to change the configuration using it as your cast on. Rehang and cast on later when it is completed. The flared-out portions of the trim will be used to “cast on” the edge of the piece, continuing with some needles out of work. An attempt at a line drawing of the “trim” sideways Using the curved out edge of the trim, hang half stitches if possible, or one full stitch away from its edge as illustrated below. Knit 4 rows. With a tool pick up all ladder loops created by NOOW (RC 1-4) and hang them on the center empty needle. Knit rows (RC 5, 6), hang ladder loops on still empty needles, knit across all needles, continue with garment

needle arrangement picking up loops 

The yarn used is cotton and appears to have a tendency toward biasing on knit rows as seen in the tendency to lean in one direction in the above photos. It has no stretch, so stitches that knit off several tuck loops remain elongated. A look at the structure on the purl side: For more trims in this family, please see later post Tuck trims 4 and other edgings

In Brother knitting when needles are out of work, the automatic end needle selection may interfere with the pattern, and this is a consideration in many stitch types.
All over fabrics, analyzing a published Brother tuck lace punchcard repeat:
Single bed: to test the pattern, arrange the needles as shown below the full pattern repeat.
Cast on and knit a few rows, set the change knob to KCII, knit one row. Push in both tuck buttons, and knit the desired number of rows. If using the pattern on electronic machines, the needle selection needs to match on the top bed. Depending on the model electronic, the pattern may have to be reversed for accurate needle selection.
I prefer to start on a row where all needles in work are selected, providing an added visual check that indeed the proper needles are in use.
Begin with waste yarn and ravel cord, followed by a permanent cast on.
I like to use a crochet cast on and bind off, with extra chains where needles are out of work. The fabric will stretch sideways depending on the number of rows tucked as well as needle set up, so casting on and binding off needs to accommodate that stretch in finished pieces.
Punched holes or black pixels represent knit stitches, as always unpunched areas of the card, or white squares represent tucked rows.  The knit stitch (blue) above which tuck loops (red) are formed becomes elongated for as many rows as unpunched cells or white pixels in the pattern until that same stitch is selected forward to be knit When using card 304, tucking happens for 3 rows forming loops that span across needles out of work, then all stitches on needles on rows with numbered markings on blue cells knit for one row. Orange gradient-filled cells represent rows on which tuck loops are being formed on the held single stitches, which in turn grow in length. The full 24 stitch repeat, shifted for my preference, with the smallest electronic 8 stitch repeats outlined with red border In electronic knitting, repeats may be planned across the number of needles in work based on personal preference. Here the repeat is adjusted to produce knit stitches on both sides of the swatch, 35 stitches X 16 rows. On the 930: the odd number of needles are automatically placed on the left, with the pattern used in the isolated design setting.
Air knitting the selection for the first row will bring proper needles to forward position, odd number on left, even number on right.
Unselected needles on the right and left must be taken out of work, knitting will continue on the remaining selections.  Double bed: there are a couple of options for varying the fabrics. In one, to retain the laciness of the knit transfer only stitches creating those long vertical columns on the top bed down to the ribber. In the other, any or all out-of-work needles on the main bed will be transferred down to the ribber. Hybrid combinations of both modes of transfer could explore the knit further in yet more ways.
If casting on in rib, set half pitch lever on H, racking indicator on 5. Cast on the desired number of stitches and knit base rows.
Set half pitch lever on P, transfer stitches between beds arranging them as shown with NOOW on both beds. Set change knob to KCII, knit one row. Push in both tuck buttons on the main bed, knit in pattern for the desired number of rows.
Lately, I have been experimenting with chain or crochet cast ons and bind offs with extra chains between needles in work, and actually began my single bed swatch in pattern immediately after the cast-on row on the needles preselected in air knitting for row 1. Some weight, distributed evenly across all stitches is necessary. The main bed remains set to tuck in both directions throughout, the ribber when used is set to knit in both.
The bottom of the swatch shows the single bed fabric, the top a double bed version.
When knitting on the double bed, in this instance, the stitches where those all knit vertical columns occur on the main bed, marked with red dots, were transferred down to the ribber. Here the main bed needles, continuing in pattern, are selected forward for knitting on the next carriage pass, here the elongated stitches and tuck loops are shown after they have been knit together on the main bed. Transferring all non-selected needles down to the ribber: the tuck loops still form on the main bed, the ribber is set to knit every needle in both directions. The resulting knit, very different in appearance and in width than the previous sample, using the same tensions
For how-tos, illustrations, and swatches showing fabrics knit with all needles in work on both beds, please see post: Ribber fabrics with main bed tuck patterning 1/ pick rib 

“Crochet” meets machine knitting techniques: working with short rows 1

Another Ravelry thread recently looked at knitting this pattern, from an old Knittax pattern book

I found this in a different manual, with a similar structure, and “English” directions  Translation of symbols used in Knittax patterns On the purl side, this creates structures that emulate crocheted shells. My first attempts at trying to knit anything like this were in thin yarn, and I had enough issues to give up for the moment. Things worked out much better when I switched to a sport weight yarn that seemed to like knitting at T 10 for stocking stitch. With NOOW set up, my sample was knit at T 9. Waste yarn and ravel cord are often a good way to start, but not always necessary, the same is true of weight. I began with a crochet cast on, every needle, multiple of 4 st + 2, then dropped the alternate pairs of needles between the first and last 2 pairs of needles in work, pulling the needles back to A position, determining the width of my “shells”
My initial experiment was an adaptation of the concept, with more needles in work than in the inspiration photo.
Working from right to left, starting with COR; the first pair of needles on carriage side in work, remaining needles away from carriage are in hold position moving toward left, the adjacent needle in the first pair in hold gets wrapped; be sure to retain proper positions for knitting and holding the first wrap completed, needles in position to continue the process is repeated X number of times. I chose to wrap X 5, which requires 10 rows of knitting, making the row counter usable to track rows in easy increments. When wraps are completed, push wrapped needle and its partner into work, knit one row make certain all the loops have knit off, wrap the first needle to their left, bring pair on the right to hold continue for your desired number of wraps return wrapped needle and its partner to work position, knit one row, wrap next single needle on left remember to bring needles to right of the pair just knit into hold repeat to end of row. Reverse process moving from left to right (in progress photo). I found a single tooth from a claw weight on the pair of stitches doing all the knitting helpful. 

Variations can include the number of needles in and out of work, yarn choices, etc. The needle arrangement to match the symbols with 3 in work, 3 out of work The same steps sequence is followed as for the first swatch, using a 2/8 wool. Summarizing the beginning series of movements starting with CORThe full series of patterns may be found in the Portuguese language booklet The illustrated needle arrangement for #4I like to begin using a chain cast on, and then dropping chains off needles out of work1: COR, leave the first needle in work, pull the remainder out to hold, knit 1 row
2: COL, bring the thread under the first needle in hold position 3: COL, knit 2 rows, repeat 1-3 5 more times, creating a total of 5 wrapped loops, ending COL
4: COL, put the needle storing the wrapped threads into work, and knit this stitch by hand twice, leave it in work
5: push the adjacent needle to its left into work, the needle on its right out to hold, knit one row, ending COL
Repeat steps 2-5The fabric shares knitting sequences with the first 2 samples Here a similar technique is used for a trim, both sides are shown  trying to imagine the process in chart format 

Online inspiration:
a youtube shawl
techniques that use holding while moving across the needle bed in a similar manner, though not necessarily producing “crochet-like” fabrics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR_7Ys9KIaU&t=4s
http://postila.ru/post/29275341

A follow-up post with more fabrics inspired by the Knittax pattern book

“Crochet” meets machine knitting techniques: working with “chains”

There are a group of single-bed braids/edgings following horizontal chains produced on the knitting machine that has reminded me of crochet. They are based on frequent latch tool bind-offs that occur with the fabric facing either side as it is regularly removed from the knitting machine. The bind-offs by necessity will move in either or both directions, since a continuous yarn strand may be used unless one chooses to change colors. The bound-off edge is rehung and worked further. It is a great way to get proficient at the technique or to get some use from that linker that has been in storage (providing a loose enough tension producing big enough stitches for it to work smoothly may be used). For the purposes of this discussion, this illustration of a crochet chain shows places where the hook might be inserted and exit before picking up yarn to create the next stitch with a hook. I think of the rear and front loops illustrated as creating a “chain”, and the one in the rear as a “bump”.

Below I have used an acrylic yarn that tests the 4.5 mm machine’s limit at the loosest possible tension. In crochet cast on, the “bump” is sitting on top of the needles, the “chain” below them

parts of the cast-on structure taken off the machine: the “bump”  “rear loop” “front loop” “both loops”

most of these fabrics start with latch tool cast on the required number of stitches for chain +1 knit one row, bind off remove work from the machine, do not cut yarn 

options for picking up and rehanging stitches: the front loop of “chain” back loop of “chain” both loops of “chain” roll work toward you to reach rear “bump” work turned over, rear “bump” rear loop of “chain” as shown in top front loop of “chain” with the rear of the fabric facing you 

To keep the number of stitches constant for a straight edge on both sides of the piece, the loop at the end gets its own needle. A sample was created picking up the rear loop only, without turning the work over at any time. View of side 1 and loop consistently worked. Note the slight bias in fabric, due to its being worked always in the same direction. Turning the work over would eliminate the problem, in a similar way as transferring eyelets in opposite directions achieves that in lace.

its reverse side 

Such trims may be used for no roll edges anywhere on a garment. The number of stitches may be decreased following shaping ie in necklines. Starting with waste yarn, ravel cord, and a chain cast-on row, one can produce stand-alone trims. The look as always varies considerably with the fiber used and its bulk. Other variations and tips:

  • knit more than one row between bind-offs (2 or 3) at maximum tension, the chained row will roll slightly, giving a different look; removing the work from the machine and turning it over before binding off, will get the chain to roll to the opposite side
  • keep the number of needles in use constant for straight edges, and use math to calculate episodic count adjustments such as decreases if needed
  • reverse side is usually the one facing away from the knitter. That is a consideration in planning the look of the trims, depending on whether the body of the piece is to use the purl or knit side as the “public” one.
  • in Brother machines holding position is E (they skipped C), and in Studio machines it is D. To ensure stitches’ knitting off properly, work may be brought to this position after each knit row
  • textures are further varied by using needles out of work or transfers within knit rows or rehanging concave or concave loops in varied sequences. Looking at stitch formation after 3 knit rows

Convex loops are what is picked up when hanging a hem or turning the work over. In sampling, I tend to use any yarn at hand. Quality of material directly relates, however, to the quality of results. The white here is a 2/15 acrylic, and the blue is a 4-ply wool. I knit a long white strip, making a side available for rehanging on the machine, and continuing with a series of trial trims. All samples were made with the purl side facing, but depending on preference and end-use, the fabric could be returned to the machine with the knit side facing as well. It is helpful to have a neat selvage. If the edge includes increases or decreases making them fully fashioned will provide one. Yarns with “memory” ie wool will retain the rolling effect produced by extra knit rows. Stitches are picked up on the finished knit a full stitch away from the edge. I tend to keep my yarn continuous rather than binding-off with separate threads. Pull a long loop out at the carriage side, avoiding tugging and distorting of end stitches when lifting them off the gate pegs in order to rehang them on needles after turning the work over. Adjust loop size prior to knitting the next row. Hang it on the first stitch on that side, or on the adjacent empty needle if you find you are a single stitch short (machine knitting magic)

Trim 1: stitches rehung on the machine   all needles brought out to hold position knit 2 rows latch tool bind off (LTBO)

Remove work from the machine, turn the work over (in this case the knit side was now facing me), pick up concave loops and rehang on km, keeping track of stitch count. Bring needles out to hold, making certain each needle has a stitch on it

knit 2 rows, LTBOI steamed swatch, some roll lost because of fiber used 

Trim 2: hang stitches on every other needle, knit with thicker yarn 
bring needles out to hold, check stitches, knit 2 rowsLTBO
turn work over, rehang EON (every other needle) knit 1 rowLTBO, lift off

proceed as above, except after first hanging stitches on EON, bring all the empty needles out to work, check stitches knit 2 rows on every needle LTBO, lift off loop that gets picked up and rehung with work turned over, rehang stitches EON bring all needles out to hold, check stitches, knit 2 rows LTBO, lift off

Trim 3: stitches on EON, introducing tuck loops knit multiple rows hook ladders up on empty needles bring all the needles out to hold, checking stitches LTBO, lifting the piece off the machine, turning work over picking up grouped loops placing them on EONknit 2 rowsLTBO, lift off


Linker manuals: Studio , Brother 

A no longer “mystery pattern”

A Ravelry post shared a Knittax pattern for this stitch and was followed up by my first, untested interpretation of the repeat here the center stitch selection in the center of knit blocks is eliminated partial repeat for punchcards electronic repeat X 2reviewing the idea after a few days I realized the repeat should be edited; orange squares need to be knit stitches  Slip <-> creates floats to be hung on center non selected needles of blocks of 5. Before the next row is knit, bring that needle out to hold to insure groups of loops in the needle hook will knit off with the next carriage pass.

When I sampled this repeat, I decided three all knit rows between loops were too many, and this became my final repeat, tiled X 4 (suitable for punchcard)multiple tuck loops, side by side do not even stay in the hooks slip stitch sample, purl side a bit closer,  knit side

A new “leaf” lace

I am often surprised when I return to visiting past ideas and discover how long I have actually been blogging.
My temporary obsession with lace leaves began in 2011.
In 2016 Vogue knitting published what appeared to me to be an interesting pattern for a leaf lace variant combining dropped stitches and lace transfers.
Below, I am sharing my WIP swatches and notes.
I am presently working on some production knitwear pieces, and it is unclear when I will return to more samples of this variant.
The “new leaf” requires hand techniques and working with multiple transfer tools.
Dropped stitches in hand knitting can translate to ladders in a machine knit.
My first trial swatch was made on the standard KM.  Casting off and on posed interesting questions. The lines where knit stitches meet ladders, as pointed out in previous posts, can result in the knit stitches aside the ladder growing in size

I do not enjoy time-consuming hand techniques on the machine, so to speed things up I moved on to the bulky. As with any other knitting, the lengthwise sides of the knit are going to want to curl to the purl side. I deliberately worked with acrylic yarn, anticipating that blocking it would be required to attempt to get the results to stay flat. Here is the resulting swatch, as first off the KM

after pressing with steam 

A couple of days later the fabric was still lying flat, so I decided to try to chart it out for slightly different results while planning for a different turning angle and a consistent number of ladders throughout.

I began to use Excel 2008 in 2009, as well as Apple’s Pages and sometimes Numbers over time to produce my charts and illustrations. I keep learning tiny bits as time goes on. Some features may disappear in such programs or become added with upgrades. These are settings I prefer for backgrounds and borders in Excel

format

and for screen grabs or improved visibility, zoom comes in handy 

For links to some online tutorial by other authors https://alessandrina.com/2013/10/29/charting-knits-in-excel/, a search in my own blog will lead you to my own explorations over time. Simple graph paper and color pencils may be used if the software is not available to help work out proper repeats, etc. A single repeat of my leaves so far is shown in 2 segments for increased visibility, successful knitting, probably in another “killable yarn” tbd.

A shawl tale 2

My “spider web” shawl has been a popular production for sale item for me for a very long time. From time to time the line was joined by chenille and felted ones with variations in shape

wool rayon

felted wool
chenille 

Most of my chenille inventory traveled with me to my new residence. The yarn has some challenges in knitting and handling, which may relate to the core content holding the fibers in place, and its twist. Lace holes may disappear with blocking, fibers shed sporadically with washing, and so on. Quality and behavior are not necessarily pricing or source dependent. Swatching is always worth it. As I work on new ideas, I occasionally decide to “wing it”. I prefer shawls that work with a bit of neck shaping rather than simple triangles. So I thought: Faroese style shawl, 2 triangles, and a shape with a bit of holding at the center, just “knit it”. The first triangle knit was the striped section, shaped with increases from 3 stitches to the desired width. The wedge section had interesting issues with biasing, even with blocking. The solid green triangle, shaped with decreases actually knit to a size different enough so it had to be unraveled and re-knit. There are many hand knitting patterns published that offer directions for “asymmetrical” shawls, which use such differences as design features, and that certainly can be an option in machine knitting as well. Calling the item a shawlette or scarf also discounts many issues. That said, I got this sort of shape and wanted this, with close to equal shaping on  either side of the center wedge

The original idea had been to create a ruffled edging with color patterning using the slip setting, automating needle selection, pattern, and shape. Brother has imo created the worst single bed color changer on the market. It is the only one I know of where the yarn does not leave the changer and in turn travel with the knit carriage sinker plate. The chenille yarns simply did not clear it properly for me, sticking together, and looping far too easily (though smooth yarns had no issues). So then my 910 got set up, and I thought to try knitting with 2 carriages. For the pattern I wanted to create even this involved issues with carrying yarn up the design stripes, and after trying slip and FI patterning I gave up and went for the KISS principle, returning to single color shaping using holding to create the ruffled edging.

the finished chenille shawl

purl side

Some of the steps I would do differently or add in future pieces:

1. definitely gauge swatch, perhaps even draft shapes on the knit leader and use it to guide triangle (or another shaping) for shawl segment

2. shape both large triangles with decreases, requiring one to be started on waste yarn (yellow line) and rehung prior to section knit in holding. Red arrows indicate the direction of knitting for each piece

3. yarn markers every X # of rows along the outer edge of shawl or on inner ruffle edge if it is knit separately, may be helpful both for seam as you knit, or later for joining the ruffle by hand

4. if the color changer is required, try to use the double color changer, with knitting weighted as for rib (this is a very viable option for frequent color changes on the bulky machine). Drawback here is the pattern is no longer immediately visible, so any errors or dropped stitches may be missed in time for immediate repair.

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