More of the extended twill FI, chenille and rayon or wool combinations
In addition to all the usual suspects, I have been playing with DBJ once again, keeping my Passap battery charged, crossing my fingers that my ancient Dell laptop will keep working, playing with colors, using super thin yarns and plying them as needed
using built in patterns
my own pattern inspired from weaving drafts, borders mirrored to match direction when scarf is worn
A free manual for the program may be obtained via Apple, with extended documentation. I thought I would share some of my notes in trying to work with it in creating knit charts. They are not intended as complete tutorials, but simply perhaps as a place to start for those owning the program. Having some familiarity with excel makes some things easier, Numbers reads Excel documents already created, will save/export files in its format as well
to create a chart: open a new document, a table will appear with wide, rectangular cells which will need to be readjusted
clicking on the square with 9 dots to the left of column A will highlight the whole sheet
the formatting bar
click on inspector (white i in blue dot) located above format bar
adjust column width and height to .4 and .4 or desired values hit return
click on the screen and a resized document will appear
drag on symbol small rectangle with 6 dots (upper right, bottom left, marked A and B) to increase # of column or rows, or copy and paste as they are needed
there are many ways to add color described in the manual in multiple contexts. For this purpose, I like to begin by creating a palette within the working table. To do so click on an individual cell, go to fill in the menu bar,
click on it, choose a color from the window that appears, select color, the cell will fill with color, having a palette within the document will save confusion, and save trips back and forth between
repeat until you have a row of chosen trial colors, same can be done with font symbols or numbers for easy access throughout the process, I have created a master document with all symbols in fonts I like to use to the left of the table, in sizes suited for the working cells, for easy copy and paste as well
copy the individual color (cell) will work with paste to place color in the design motif area, dragging the handle at the bottom right of the paste will produce single cells, rows, columns, or squares/ rectangular shapes in that color
copy and paste motif created both to change color segments, and to test motif repeat alignment
isolate final repeat for actual knitting, programming, or punching
Borders
here I miss the pencil drawing option in excel; a tutorial on border drawing Numbers, and some illustrations using the motif in the downloadable document (post1) with variations
using select, copy, paste; border markings illustrated
altering the repeat to a dropped one
brick stitch_ easy changing to visualize shifts in the pattern
I began using the program for this purpose in 2009 and continued to in nearly all the colored charts in my color separations for knits posts since then. Gimp offers a whole other series of options for knitters in BW with magnification as seen in more recent posts here. I thought I would revisit some of the tutorials written by several other knitters prior to more posts of my own on using Numbers for anyone having Excel available to them. They are in no particular order. Marnie’s and Fleegle’s blogs offer tips, techniques, and how-tos in a series that I found extremely helpful when I began my own spreadsheet journey.
http://fibremuse.blogspot.com/2009/02/charting-patterns-with-excel-part-1.html
http://marniemaclean.com/blog/tutorials.html#.Um_-wpFQY7I
http://www.chemknits.com/2010/01/how-to-make-knitting-chart-in-excel_9394.html
http://fleeglesblog.blogspot.com/search?q=charting+with+excel
http://anniebeeknits.wordpress.com/2011/06/06/charting-in-excel/
This is an attempt to duplicate the results of Passap tech 185 used in knitting multiple colors per row drop stitch “lace” fabrics.
The method may also be used for more colors per row, expanding the repeats accordingly to the number of colors per row X 2 for each motif row. For example, here 2 colors per row are expanded to 4 rows for each color in length, 3 cols per row would need to be expanded to 6 for each design row.
This fabric widens considerably when completed, so at the top and bottom edges, cast ons and bind offs, need special consideration and planning.
In this instance, the design has been separated for the dbj method wherein each color in each design row knits twice. The second row in each pair of rows is then cleared of any pixels which results in no needle selection, providing an opportunity for the loops formed on the main bed to be dropped with the assistance of a stitch ditcher.
The fabric may also be executed using the original separation, but the opportunity to use an accessory to facilitate stitch dropping is lost’
The method for swatching: cast on for every other needle rib, knit 2 circular rows followed by one row of all knit rib, and transfer all main bed stitches to the ribber. For an open stitch cast on directions and photos see later post.
COR Set up needles on both beds for every needle rib with an extra needle in work at each end on the main bed, cancel end needle selection (KC II). With the main bed needles in the B position, set the knit carriage to slip in both directions so as not to pick up loops across the whole row as the first pass toward the color changer is made, needles will be preselected for the first pattern row
COL: the ribber remains set to knit every needle, the main bed to slip in both directions. A piece of tape in front of needle butts of needles in A position aside from the edge needles in work helps keep from accidentally moving extra needles into work when dropping whole rows of stitches
change color, as the carriage moves to the right, selected needles will pick up loops on the main bed that will form the long stitches when dropped, while the next row of pattern is selected, so by the time the carriage has reached the right side of the machine, needles will have flatlined due to the all blank rows in this type of color separation
COR: use any convenient tool to bring all needles involved out to E, and use the same tool to return all stitches back to the B position, dropping the loops on the main bed which will form the long stitches. With this type of color separation, it is also possible to use a modified Studio P slider Directions on altering the studio tool for use on Brother machines to drop stitches from right to left before continuing to knit.
Check that all needles are empty and that loops free and between the beds.
As the carriage moves to the left again toward the color changer, the ribber only will knit all stitches (does so every row), needles will be preselected for the next row of long stitches, selected needles are not knitting.
Colors are changed every 2 rows
The pattern and the “color separations”, were achieved using Gimp
Images from left to right
1. motif lengthened X 4
2. every other row erased (non-selection rows)
3. 2nd pattern row (every other row of design now left) color inverted
4. pattern marked in 5X5 blocks for easier tracking when drawing on the 910 mylar sheet
A downloadable PDF of basic info 185_brother
sideway views: knit side 
purl side 
The emerging pattern can be seen, and to be noted is the elongation factor involved as in many color separation DBJ fabrics
For a later review of cumulative posts on the topic see: revisiting drop stitch lace
For the design method for staggered shapes in drop stitch see Ayab software-related post.
In other electronics, a single repeat in both height and width is adequate and machine selections will determine whether the design is knit as a single motif or as all-over patterns.
Ayab’s preselection is always from left to right. In unhacked 910s, the first preselection row can be from right to left, so no accommodations need to be made for shifting the last row to the first of the design repeat.
For machines accepting electronic downloads, program the repeat with the first design row containing black squares in it, and adjust the spacing between repeats as preferred. This particular version is 80 stitches wide 
In an unaltered 910 with the ability to double the width of the programmed repeat, mylar users are not excluded from exploring a similar fabric. The repeat above may be rescaled to half the width, drawn that way, and then use the twice as wide built-in feature. In Gimp scaling this design to half-width, note the right side of each repeat contains an odd number of squares, the left side an even one. The repeat may be used as-is or redrawn, adding or eliminating black squares if symmetry in each shape matters. The free program Paintbrush produces the same image, mirrored.
The explanation: further analysis of the original design reveals the fact that some of the pixel numbers in the design black square blocks are uneven in width. In this instance, 3.5 is half of 7, and half pixels cannot be rendered, so the software assigns the split to 4 and 3.
A Passap sample 
A recent Ravelry forum thread resulted in this response from me re drop stitch patterns with multiple colors per row: “some random thoughts on these techniques: they are often much easier on the Passap, particularly the E 6000 because the machine is capable of separating colors for techniques that would require software or lots of hand/brain work to be done manually and entered. The drawback is that the pattern books offer no explanations of the programmable techniques, simply offer a number to the program to reproduce a specific illustration in their publication, and need to be analyzed by DIYers if one chooses to apply them to their own patterns.
Sorting it all out can help reproduce the fabrics when using other KM brands.
In the case of multiple color patterns: to retain some of the knit structure for each color accompanied by long stitches in the same color on any single row, some of the stitches need to be knit only on the ribber or Passap back bed, with the alternating stitches in the same color dropping after they are knit on the patterning bed.
Distinctions are sometimes made in Passap knitting between release stitches and summer fair isle. For these techniques, weights are recommended. All stitches are transferred to the back bed after cast on and before beginning a release pattern.
The racking handle is down, black strippers are recommended.
The back bed pushers must be in the rest position after the pattern is set up.
All stitches are released from the front bed before binding off on the back one.
E6000 Tech 256: knit 2 rows with yarn, 2 without yarn, dropping stitches
Tech 129: N/LX end release, single color
Tech 185: N/LX 2 rows color 1, 2 rows color 2, end release
Self-drawn reader technique for 3 colors 
Self-drawn reader technique for 4 colors 
Tech 117 for color separated designs and entered for 3+4 colorwork. From my E6 manual with my scribbled notes 
In tech 185 when combining the technique with a stitch pattern, the white squares for each design row K1R, skip 3, the black squares slip for 2R, K1R, skip one, with each 2 col row expanding into 4. Stitches are picked up on patterning bed EOR (odd #), not on even, resulting in both knit and dropped stitches in each color, in the pattern. BX with left arrow key/LX, 2 rows with yarn, 2 with no yarn to drop loops on the front bed. The “long stitch” Tech 184 or “pintuck” Tech 250 may also be used for release stitch.
The front bed stitches must be released before any shaping as well as prior to binding off. The edges of the resulting knits can be uneven. The side opposite that in which color changes are happening, right on Passap, left on Japanese machines, tends to be looser than the other. When color changes happen the floats on the edge between them can pull up the fabric on that side, so a small wight may have to be added and moved up every few rows on that side every few rows to keep that from happening.
Passap knitters: see summer fair isle pp 41-43 E6000 pattern book for illustrations of some 2 colors per design row stitch patterns…I am guessing also that separating colors for selective stitch dropping can help where one wants to retain some stitches while dropping others in that same row using pusher selection selectively (such as in the Superba-inspired bubble sample).
Below is a quick E6 sample: the fabric was pressed, had been much more textured prior to doing so, and is shown in sideways format; casting on and binding off would have to be considered in planning an actual fabric, as the patterned portion is a very different width than simple stocking stitch in the same yarn.
An Australian woman, Faye Butcher, developed a tool intended for dropping stitches without disrupting pusher selection on the front bed 
It may be used to drop any individual rows, but with some practice, it can be shifted from one side to the other, preceding the locks as they move to the opposite side, dropping loops formed on the previous row ahead of new ones being knit making the process very quick.
The Passap test swatch
purl side knit side 
Passap stitch formation is more predictable and even than in Brother knitting. I prefer to drop at regular intervals, in my experience with longer pieces, not all stitches may ravel properly after doing so in a test swatch.
End release does not work in every design, ie if long stitch shapes are distributed on knit striped grounds.
A Brother sample using the same design repeat as in the Passap swatch.
My latest wraps based on this principle are from a variety of fibers, and knit on the Passap 6000; the Passap allows for more tucked rows, which in turn provide the wider width for the “ruffle” at the top and bottom of the piece
altering the height of the “bottom ruffle” to about half changes the angles in the drape in the front
my previous posts on the topic of attempting to achieve circular knits on the machine:
2011/06/24/taking-it-to-a-garment/
2011/06/25/taking-it-to-a-garment-2-donuts/
2011/06/30/taking-it-to-a-garment-3a-2/
this method works for studio simple lace patterns, wherein a single pass the stitches are both transferred and knit. There has been information published on using Studio punchcards on Brother punchcard machines using the KC to select, followed the LC, each making single passes. My two previous posts on the topic: 2011/05/18/lace-cards-use-on-the-brother-260-bulky/ and 2013/03/17/studio-simple-lace-punchcards-used-on-brother/.
While working out yet another HK to MK lace pattern, I sorted out the following method for using Studio simple lace on the electronic KM. It is a method that does not work on the Brother punchcard to produce the same fabric, however; on punchcard machines, as either carriage is moved to select from the opposite side of the bed, the card will not advance on the first pass, interrupting selection. I tried a swatch and got a very different lace design; depending on the starting pattern the results may be interesting (do not use elongation), but not the ones intended to match any original.
The knitting samples shown below were knit on a Brother 910. On electronic machines, as seen in previous posts on knitting with 2 carriages, the mylar (or otherwise programmed) repeat advances a row with each pass of the carriage, no matter on which side of the bed the pass originates. Dropped stitches are harder to repair in these fabrics than in patterns for multiple transfer lace (there knitting can be unraveled to the start of a sequence where 2 or more knit rows usually occur), so checking transfers, gate pegs, and adjusting stitch size and weights matter even more. There is no need to mirror the image horizontally; draw repeat as is on punchcard onto mylar
start knitting with KC (knit carriage) on left, Lace Carriage (LC) on Right
program pattern double length
on the first row the LC selects, the next row it will transfer; LC always makes 2 passes toward the KC, even if those 2 rows in repeat have no needle selection, and is removed from bed to be returned to the bed on the opposite side after the knit row with KC that follows
KC knits a single row to the opposite side
LC is placed back onto the machine opposite the KC to make 2 passes
KC follows with a single knit row, and the last 2 steps are repeated
3 total carriage passes complete one row of knit
the chart below shows the actions and placement of carriages
this sample was knit beginning with lace carriage on left, as can be seen in marked areas, the alternating repeats have a different quality in the sets of transfers marked red vs green
the “successful” swatch knit beginning with KC on left, LC on right in the method described above
December 7, 2018: an interesting method using 2 lace carriages found on youtube
This is a lace sample created on a dubied industrial knitting machine
I became curious as to how to duplicate it and decided to use needle selection to help track the transfers rather than counting needles by hand. The repeat is a small one, suitable for both electronics and punchcards. Below is its configuration on my 910, punchcard knitters may want to flip the repeat to match the directions for knitting as written.
the sample’s knit side
its purl side
yarn: 2/8wool
end needle selection (KCII here) must be used any time there are needles out of work in the pattern
transfers are always made toward the carriage
single empty needled are put OOW after transfers across row
pairs of empty needles after they are created are returned to work before the next row of knitting to create side-by-side loops
in my case, odd rows transfers were —>, even <—
single rows are knit after each set of transfers
1.KCII <—, transfer selected needles <—, move empty needles OOW
2. select row 2 as carriage knits —>, transfer selected needles —>, there will be two empty needles, side by side; bring all needles in work across the row
3. knit <—here there will be 2 loops side by side on adjoining emptied needles; check that no loops have dropped off, rehang and adjust tension if needed; transfer selected needles toward the carriage _ move single now emptied needles OOW
as this row and the next row are knit and transferred, side-by-side loops will become stitches, and another 2-loop set will be created
4. knit —>, transfer selected needles —> onto the adjoining loop, there will be 2 empty needles side by side, bring all/pairs needles in work across the row
repeat steps 3 and 4 for the remainder of the fabric
my previous posts on large eyelet lace were created using the lace carriage
large eyelets, and diagonal large eyelets
a cousin of sorts may be achieved by using the following punchcard lace repeat; the lace carriage selects and transfers for 4 passes, the knit carriage follows with 2 rows of knitting throughout; stitches are transferred, doubled up, and transferred again, so yarn choice, weight, and tension may need a lot of editing.
the resulting fabric
There is an added post on automating such large meshes published in July 2020
Random Stich lace pattern generator
https://www.knittingfool.com/Reference/LacePatternGenerator.aspx
Text to binary converters
1 https://www.prepostseo.com/tool/text-to-binary-converter,
2 https://www.convertbinary.com/text-to-binary/
3 https://codebeautify.org/text-to-binary
stripe generators
http://www.randomstripes.com
https://patternizer.com/a008b
http://www.stripegenerator.com
punchcard generator and how to use videos
https://patternpunchknit.com/ beta online tool 11/2022 https://brendaabell.com/knittingtools/pcgenerator/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBSVIJsSux4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rUBb6IUce0 English version
https://www.youtube.com/c/knitlabo/videos?view=0&sort=dd&shelf_id=1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8KvFiklGTE
yardage calculator https://www.jimmybeanswool.com/secure-html/onlineec/knittingCalculator.asp
estimating yardage when converting a pattern to new stitch gauge http://www.thedietdiary.com/knittingfiend/tools/YardageConversion.html
1/21/2016: Online weaving program by Andrew Glassner ; associated blogpost
11/26/17 a simple, user-friendly free motif design paint program for Mac, last updated April 2019: Paint Brush
This is a Superba drop stitch fabric, using the same principles as those in the last post, with a rib stitch outlining the alternating drop stitch shapes on the purl side
directions from the manual
In my knit sample the ribber does all the knitting every row and patterning is accomplished on the main bed, reversing the recommendation in the Superba manual
the new repeat
Set up is so that needle selection position once again begins with 5 stitches on the left, occurs in a multiple of 5, with extra needles in work on ribber on either side
Transfer all stitches to ribber, begin needle selection with first five stitches on left in work, 3 OOW, 5 in work, 3 OOW across the bed as seen in the illustration above, reversing the beds.
The first needle, then every 4th, and last on right on the main bed will never be dropped, are always in work.
When needle selection changes to block number 2 from left, the center 3 sts of every group of 5 every needle rib sections are dropped, the empty 3 needles beginning with the second group from left are brought into work, repeating the process across the bed.
Knitting continues until needle selection changes, *the middle 3 stitches of each 5 stitch EON rib group are dropped, the previously 3 empty needles in the opposing sets are returned to work. Knitting continues until the needle selection changes* and the * * process is repeated.
Cast on and bind off methods are determined by end-use and personal preference
the resulting fabric, purl side
the knit side (not truly reversible as the swatch in the last post)
a not so bubbly bubble end