Most pubs include variations of sequences such as in this illustration showing the first float traveling under subsequent ones. 
This chart visualizing the process for a specific repeat was generated using Mac Numbers.
The side edges need to be planned for the best effect, the columns marked with yellow cells indicate possible repeat starts and stops.
The 8X16 design is suitable for use on electronic and punch card models, 
A minimum punchcard repeat is 24stitches X32 rows 
This swatch was knit using a chenille yarn for weaving, its fibers expand as the fabric rests, lessening the space that can enhance the definition between the floats
Translating published patterns sometimes requires testing the process by hand-selecting needles to develop programmable DIY designs. The Brother cassette knitting pattern book 
includes a series of samples utilizing the technique, and these illustrations
In fabrics such as these, the latch hook is inserted under floats from the first formed up, the last float is caught in the hook of the tool, pulled down behind them, brought forward, up, and lifted onto specific needle locations before further weaving or plain knitting resumes on all needles in work. 
A random selection: 
The repeats are represented in a clockwise rotation, 
the first swatch however, disregarded that fact and was a best guess at DIY based on hand-selection of needles.
As already mentioned, the latch tool is used to slide under the first 3 floats grabbing the yarn in the newly created longer float, bringing it under and then to the front of the group of three, and the single loop in the tool hook is lifted onto the hook of the needle in the center position between groups of newly preselected needles. That needle must be pushed back to the B position before knitting the next row so as not to pick up the weaving yarn. 
the 6X8 repeat 
The swatch on the left is the result of hand selection, and to its right both sides of the result from knitting with the programmed repeat 
As a general principle when multiple colors are used, if they are planned for color changes occurring for odd numbers of passes, the yarn may need to be cut and brought to the opposite side regularly, or 2 different ends starting from opposite sides may in some cases make the process easier and reduce yarn ends.
For speed and ease in tracking, the compromise choice can be made to change the repeat so that actions happen after knitting even numbers of rows.
End needle selection is on with selective hand moving end needles out to catch the weaving yarn if the repeat is used as provided.
A new, 6X8 repeat: 
the 24X40 full punchcard, 
If programming the width of the finished piece on electronic machines, pixels for border needle selections can be added, knit with end needle selection off. 
Some steps in the process, with # 4 showing the single chained through loops rehung across the row
The 930 automatically mirrors any design horizontally. When an odd-numbered design is downloaded and centered with no subsequent changes, the odd-number half of the repeat occurs on the right of 0.
The proof of concept was knit on needles 20 L to 21 R 
Here the background yarn is switched to a far thinner cotton, making the woven threads and their bleed-through on the knit side more prominent. In a final piece planned for this effect, side borders could be planned for better edges. 
From a Brother electronic pub, an illustration of hooking up multiple loops at once 
If the needle onto which the floats are transferred is left in work, it will pick up the weaving yarn on the next pass as part of the design and should remain in D or be pulled to E position if preferred. If that is not the goal, that same needle is pushed back to the B position. 
Just as in managing long floats in FI, in this fabric, they may be latched up as well 
Lifting the stitch in the latch hook onto a needle other than in the center of the space between needle selection or one of the preselected needles, will result in the chain moving permanently in different directions.
A second early resource for samples of these techniques 
offered this version along with advice on how to knit it. Such translations are not always understandable. 
Based on row counts of patterning in the accompanying swatch it is possible to develop a repeat by assigning black pixel locations to specific squares in the stitch symbol chart rather than using the repeat provided.
The horizontal marks for purl stitches can be thought of as needles on the machine.
The squares where the traveling weaving thread “wave” in the position above the line are filled are represented with green cells in the spreadsheet and will be converted to black pixels in BW pngs for use in download programs, or punched holes in cards.
The under “waves” symbolize floats and are disregarded in final repeats.
Yellow is used to mark spots for visual reminders of where the floats are to be rehung. They are disregarded in the final BW single repeat. The corresponding needles in those locations must pushed back to the B position before knitting the next row.
The 8X14 smallest repeat 
was tested on 48 stitches hand selecting end needles if needed. 
Working in vertical columns, a 9X12 design 
planned on 39 stitches for equal side edges 
the floats are lifted in pairs every 2 rows, in alternate directions onto preselected needles, which can be brought out to the E position after the transfer. Those needles are marked with red dots. 
The swatch was knit in wool yarns of equal weight. The weaving yarn split easily. Each row should be checked for any errors after hooking before continuing to knit to avoid permanent errors. The result of both is marked with red dots in the photo on the left 
In summary, black squares indicate yarn over selected needles, and white squares the yarn slipping under non-selected needles, represented in this chart for a 2X2 design repeat/ paintbrush in DIY. 
Side by side punched holes or black pixels produce floats in a corresponding stitch width. Blocks of either color can be planned in any direction, with the floats left alone as color blocks or manipulated to echo their movement ie in this illustration 
Altering the repeat while planning on cam settings to be changed every even number of rows also brings the possibility of using 2 carriages in electronic models, with one set to tuck in both directions, the other to normal knit (no cam buttons) but with needle selection for weaving rows, KCII 
In this sample with horizontally woven rows, the ground yarn is a 2/20 wool, the weaving yarn a space dyed sock yarn resulting in random color blocking. Relaxed the knit resembled shadow pleating, here it is shown after pressing and steaming 
For work on the machine, swatches, punchcards, tools, and more information on types of weaves, ie laying in the yarn with vertical wrappings 
The “yarn guide” is that mysterious notch in each arm of the sinker plate. In the Studio accessory, the 
Start the piece with waste yarn and some evenly distributed weight based on fabric width. Make sure the weaving brushes are activated. In Brother standard, their position is changed using the corresponding lever, in the bulky 260 the L and R wheel brushes need to be placed in their corresponding slots. 
In general, the knitting yarn is thinner than the weaving one. The tension needs to be adjusted to accommodate the surface yarn, not the background one. The tighter the tension the firmer and narrower the weave.
Locking the card, as with any other pattern, will repeat the same needle selection, creating vertical repeats that resemble twill weaving on a loom.
a: because stitches are actually knitting every other row, slipping while the needles on each side of them knit, they will alternately be a bit elongated; b: same needles knit every row, so their appearance is consistent. 
Depending on the difference in yarn thickness, the knit stitches in the ground become forced apart with what can be significant “bleed-through” on the reverse of the weaving to make that a really interesting fabric feature as well.
To create isolated shapes: lay the yarn in any chosen area 
The ground yarn and color may be changed for added striping and color interest. Sharp angles are created by crossing over two weaving needles, and more gradual ones by crossing over more needles. Blank areas of ground may be left as well.
A later experiment combining 
This is the wrong way to feed the yarn, as the row gets knit woven in, the yarn will be locked in place and cannot be advanced to proceed up the knit 
The way to have continuously available yarn 
Adding a second set of holes for the yarn stabilize the short yarn ends and maintain even spacing throughout, some tape could be used in addition to secure the ends on wider widths of vertical weave 
A spreadsheet or graph paper may be used to plan the configuration of the weaves including double wraps, this was executed using Numbers, individual bobbins might be a practical consideration 
In my own experience most hand techniques and single bed textures are far easier to execute with the ribber removed. It is easier to view progress, move up weights, and correct mistakes. That said, my machines are all set up with the ribber brackets, not flat, I feel it helps slide the knit down toward the gate pegs, and in my opinion that makes textures and even lace easier to produce. I have ribber covers, they can be improvised if needed with paper or cloth, never use them since I see no reason for moving the knit on the top bed in front of the ribber. If the ribber is removed, it is worth checking its balance once more prior to returning to any rib knit. Ultimately this sort of thing is about personal preference, no steps are ever universally applicable and correct.
chenille over cotton, tests for a pillow 
hooked up floats 
vertical weave, the second with a scorched spot from an iron, experimenting with direction of wraps, 
wool ground, felted, monochrome acrylic weft, cut floats 
wool weft over cotton, cut floats, further trimmed in the top photo 
The same card 3 ways: the weft is too soft, the effect is lost in monochromatic version, cut floats become muddied with wear 
crochet start as cast on 
beads strung through dental floss hooked on periodically, horizontal wraps;
automated pattern with added weaving through ladders 
“loop embossing”, separate threads were worked in and out vertically through ladder spaces 
worked on bulky 260, tension 2, using card 1 
weaving and lace combinations. 
Weaving yarns may be laid in between the beds with the ribber in use. This is the option for “weaving” on the Passap. 1: shows the rib needle configuration, 2: racking is added, 3: floats are teased out. In the latter, a sewing machine could always be used to anchor added float arrangements. 
In this swatch, a waffle weave effect of sorts was intended between EON rib columns. The horizontal pairs of treads are an easy guide for feeding the yarn across rows with the work off the machine. Here the chenille was “woven in” off the machine using a tapestry needle, double-strand at the top 2 rows, single below them. Beads can also be threaded and laid in one at a time between the rib columns, 
Any fabric with eyelets may be used as a ground for inserting fabric strips, very thick yarns, even hard objects such as rods or twigs. A quick grab of random studio bits resulted in these: torn fabric has frayed edges that can be used to create secondary patterns depending on the fabric, and the way the strips behave depends on the width of the cut. A bodkin is useful in the threading process. Bodkins measure about 3 inches, and cost about $3 in US sewing supply stores 
using thick yarns 
used in a wearable made during my student days for a “recycling” art day. 
roving
strips of torn silk individually placed 
hair decor and kite string
It has the added data on how each of the fabrics might look visualized in a chart prior to its expansion as a card in full repeat. This is the top half repeat of a card for pull up weaving combined with lace along with the directions for execiting the knit 
My experience with trying to knit 
Taking carriages on and off the same side of the machine is nothing I would be inclined to do for any length on any machine. In theory, the identical repeat above could be used on an electronic KM in that way, but I did not get very far with that method before giving up.
Volume 4 offers only this advice: “the empty needles are selected at the second lace pattern, but this is not a trouble, and you may pass the L carriage to the side which is indicated on the punchcard”. I take that to mean that after a transfer if the same needle is selected again, don’t be concerned, keep moving the carriage in the direction of the arrows. 
Because the weaving is for only 2 rows, the use of laid in, thicker yarn is well tolerated. The punchcard repeat amended for use on electronic, shown prior to mirroring 
At the time, I made a long, convoluted effort to produce the fabric. I am returning to the topic and comparing 2 cards in this post, the original 589, and a new-found cousin, 259. Looking to the published cards for clues, remember that markings for carriage movements related to the first design row at the bottom of the card begin on the left of the card, above the Brother line numbered 1 on the right. The start of both cards: 
As the carriage moves to the right, the card will advance a row. 
259 shows the traditional approach combining the two techniques that take into account the fact that when the second selecting carriage starts to move from the opposite side, the punchcard does not advance, repeating the same preselection. Added discussion of the differences in repeats for both machine types may be found in the post: Doilies: 
Analyzing the card, sorting out possible repeats follows since mylars or bitmaps for download often only require a single repeat of the pattern. If you are not used to doing this, sometimes beginning with recognizable vertical ones first is a bit easier. The first problem: matching the arrow markings beginning just above row 1 mark on the right, it appears the first set of transfers should be to the left,
The pattern is simply not workable as given using both carriages selecting needles from opposite sides of a punchcard machine, each moving for 2 rows.
the smallest, single repeated in width X 2 for use on my 930
its .png 
Extension rails must be used as both carriages engage the belt. The LC operates from the left-hand side for four passes throughout. The KC from the right for 2 passes each time. It advances the design by one row for each pass, preselecting needles or blank rows depending on the presence or absence of pixels as it would in any other fabric type. End needle selection is canceled. The weaving yarn is laid over the groups of every other needle in D position. A quick proof of concept swatch, the ground yarn may need tension adjustments for the best result 
the mirrored repeat is used in the top swatch, any dropped stitches will result in floats. The repeat prior to mirroring was used to knit the bottom swatch. Dropped lace transfers may be missed behind the laid in thicker yarn. Transfers may need to be made manually if they continue to be a problem, especially if the ground yarn tension needs tightening in order to achieve the desired effect. 
comparing the sequences for both starts, weaving on left, lace on the right 
a sample using 2 different weight yarns; irregular weaving may require changing the yarn, or adjusting the tension used for the background yarn 
I like to test these repeats first in transfer lace, to sort out the best tension and yarn to use, errors in programming, 
Taking another look at the original punchcard and those arrows on the left-hand side, a detail I had originally missed, they all start from and return to the right, the line thickness changing marking the alternate carriage 
As I was trying to understand what was happening, I was also able to produce a swatch using the original #589 card, using a method that, however, produced all lace transfers to the right, and differed from the desired effect:
the knit, produced at the time on both my punchcard machine and with my 910 also requiring an LC release on its third pass,
