Swatches and Experiments – Page 5

Knitting in pattern with 2 carriages vs color changer, Brother punchcard KMs 2

After my recent attempt to resurrect my single bed color changer and frustration with my 910 behaving “flaky” when reading mylar sheets drawn using template marking pencils (perhaps, because over time of some of the marks flaking off the surface of the mylar, with changes their density as a result), I went back to the idea of using my punchcard machine. I pulled out an old friend, illustrated in my post 2012/10/15/mosaics-and-mazes-from-design-to-pattern/ , had forgotten about my other post 2016/08/25/knitting-in-pattern-with-2-carriages-brother-punchcard-kms/ and actually came up with a second alternative for starting to knit with 2 carriages. Here is a bit more description: I began with a card punched with repeats that are single rows in height, and would normally have to be elongated for use with a color changer. Since 2 carriages are used, the starting side does not necessarily matter. With COR, color 1, carriage set to KC, card set on row 1 but not locked, but rather, set to advance normally. The first carriage then is moved to the opposite side of the bed (in this case the left). The second carriage is now placed on the extension rail on the right, cam settings set for the choice stitch to be worked (in this first case tuck or slip). It is threaded with the second color, is used to knit 2 rows of col 2, returns to right. The carriage on the left now comes off the rail on that side and onto the needle bed, with cam buttons set for appropriate stitch type, it travels to the right, and then back to its starting point. Yarn weight alters the appearance of any fabric considerably. As always, slip is short and thin, tuck short and wide.

The same method may be used with any punchcard requiring color changes every X even number of rows. FI can be knit with 2 separate sets of colors in each carriage, or with one carriage set to select but with no cam buttons engaged for solid color stripes between motif repeats (it will plain knit, with color in A feeder, the card keeps advancing). Cam settings may be combined for different or opposing textures or stitch types without any manual changes to cam buttons. Of course, also helps if your punchcard is punched correctly to start with ;-). Problems in the slip stitch red and white segment were due to tension adjustments being needed for stitches to knit off properly.

Lastly, there has never been a single bed 2 color changer for the 260 bulky. Extension rails for the bulky machine were manufactured at one point. If a second carriage for the bulky is available as well as the rails, working this way opens up a range of complex fabrics for execution more easily.

And then, buyer beware! I am still experimenting with a patterned ruffle. So I tried the card first with 2 carriages, but the design was different than one of my aged swatches using the same card.

I went back to the color changer, assuming this yarn pair might work in it, and it did, but here is the resulting fabric, so it would appear the above is technically twice as long. Frankly, when the color changer works, when only one carriage cam setting is used or very few changes are needed, and if you don’t do things like pushing the wrong button, have your yarns happily mating or causing loops in all your brushes as they travel from the yarn changer side, it may even be quicker than using 2 carriages. What is possible may not produce what you originally intended, but sometimes the surprise can be a very pleasant one. If not, then it’s back to the drawing board to accommodate the techniques and yarns involved. Pictured below is part of the working repeat, whited out areas are not punched for these swatches, they are covered with cellophane. Denise Musk’s book on the technique of slipstitch provided the source/ inspiration for the experiments. For the second swatch, the card was flipped over vertically.

Areas of the knit placement on THE needle bed may be changed to suit. I like working within the 24 stitch marking on the needle tape for this sort of work. Flipping the card vertically when using the color changer in this instance will allow that, and begins each row with knit stitches (every hole punched on right in the image above), and patterned knitting and needle selection stops shy of the “slipped” stitches (unpunched areas on left). In using the slipstitch setting this may not make a significant difference since the yarn threads stay in front of the gate pegs. This repeat is also suitable for the tuck setting. The yarn gets laid in hooks as the non punched area of the repeat is cleared. While not knitting or necessarily affecting the pattern, this can cause added issues with loops and yarn tangles on that side (one may be noted in photo of purl side of swatch below). Seam-as-you-knit can also now occur on the opposite side, away from yarn ends and color changer.

Purl side showing loop at non-knitting (or punched) side and edge curl on the left may actually be used as a “design feature”. The density of the tuck stitch helps keep it in place.

the knit side

an “oldie” of mine, using the technique in a single color

4/6/17 I am getting along better with the color changer by making different yarn choices, so I now have a WIP, and am going about a shawl design backward: ruffle first, body later. Reasoning: seam-as-you-knit should be easier if not taking place during ruffle knitting. If the latter is not bound off it may be continued with body knitting taken off on scrap yarn if needed to facilitate doing so. BTW, as with all knitting that uses patterning on only part of the knitting on the machine, end needle selection must be canceled on the knitting undercarriage. Any reverse movement of the carriage will advance the card for a pattern row, so that is an added possibility for errors as the knit grows in length. The pattern has 18-row segments, 36 for the full repeat. For 36 passes of the carriage, only 8 full rows of knitting take place. Every individual has their own design process. I tend not to sketch, but rather to make decisions as each piece grows. As for some math? 800 rows would actually take 3600 passes of the carriage, the shawl requirements TBD. (3276 on completion).

A previous post with notes on color changers: https://alessandrina.com/2014/01/26/some-notes-on-machine-knitting-color-changers/

Older model machines had no provision for a second yarn mast, and an accessory was available for mounting on their left side. Having the yarn in that position brings it closer to the changer and seems to help with undesired looping and sliding within the changer’s wheels. This shows the carriage traveling toward the extension rail, with the auxiliary mast in place

If the ribber setting plate needs to be moved forward in order to balance your ribber when in use, setting it as close to the needle bed as possible or even removing it may be needed if it starts to catch and hold the yarn

the “finished” ruffle; HK markers every 20 repeats to help track rows knit and being joined on with “seam as you knit” technique
the finished shawl after a successful truce with my color changer

going green the series grows

A new “leaf” lace

I am often surprised when I return to visiting past ideas and discover how long I have actually been blogging.
My temporary obsession with lace leaves began in 2011.
In 2016 Vogue knitting published what appeared to me to be an interesting pattern for a leaf lace variant combining dropped stitches and lace transfers.
Below, I am sharing my WIP swatches and notes.
I am presently working on some production knitwear pieces, and it is unclear when I will return to more samples of this variant.
The “new leaf” requires hand techniques and working with multiple transfer tools.
Dropped stitches in hand knitting can translate to ladders in a machine knit.
My first trial swatch was made on the standard KM. Casting off and on posed interesting questions. The lines where knit stitches meet ladders, as pointed out in previous posts, can result in the knit stitches aside the ladder growing in size

I do not enjoy time-consuming hand techniques on the machine, so to speed things up I moved on to the bulky. As with any other knitting, the lengthwise sides of the knit are going to want to curl to the purl side. I deliberately worked with acrylic yarn, anticipating that blocking it would be required to attempt to get the results to stay flat. Here is the resulting swatch, as first off the KM

after pressing with steam

A couple of days later the fabric was still lying flat, so I decided to try to chart it out for slightly different results while planning for a different turning angle and a consistent number of ladders throughout.

I began to use Excel 2008 in 2009, as well as Apple’s Pages and sometimes Numbers over time to produce my charts and illustrations. I keep learning tiny bits as time goes on. Some features may disappear in such programs or become added with upgrades. These are settings I prefer for backgrounds and borders in Excel

format

and for screen grabs or improved visibility, zoom comes in handy

For links to some online tutorial by other authors https://alessandrina.com/2013/10/29/charting-knits-in-excel/, a search in my own blog will lead you to my own explorations over time. Simple graph paper and color pencils may be used if the software is not available to help work out proper repeats, etc. A single repeat of my leaves so far is shown in 2 segments for increased visibility, successful knitting, probably in another “killable yarn” tbd.

Bleach discharge on knits

I have an I would rather die than dye attitude. Back in late 90s at a Studio Seminar I attended a workshop on bleach discharge on knits. A sweater using the technique by Dawn Ortel was published in Studio by White Design, Spring/Summer 1995. At some point while still teaching I developed a set of swatches using the technique, removing color from finished fabric rather than adding it. Since then, other alternative, safer methods and agents for discharge have been developed and become available. For this exercise the mix used was 1 part household bleach and 3 parts water in a spray bottle. Masking tape, stiffened lace, clear stick on shelf liner, rubber templates, and any non porous material may be used as the “stencil”. All non design areas need to be protected. A spray bottle that allows for mist control is required. The activity is best done out of doors. When the color reaction looks as intended, remove any “stencil” carefully to avoid any bleach spilling onto the rest of your piece. Wash in neutralizing solution of 1 cup white vinegar to 1 gallon of water to halt process.

Masking tape was used to create the diagonal stripes below. The original 2 colors used for the FI can be identified in those areas. A rubber “stencil” populated with evenly spaced dots was used in addition. The combination produced the illusion of multiple colors per row. The yarn used was 100% mercerized cotton.

here 6 lb fishing line is used as color 2 larger shapes: plain knit on FI on slip or tuck patterning plain knit on L / slip stitch on R locked FI, wool/rayon as col 2, coffee stain selected areas details (extra colors from fabric markers)

MK ladders, and a bit of crochet

I have recently been thinking about collars and edgings again, this time adding crochet detailing to help cut the edge curl and add interest. In a previous post, I showed an edging done in drop stitch (double bed lace). Here to simplify things, I decided to work with ladder spaces to create the fabric. If a large width of this fabric is required, multiple bands would need to be joined to achieve it, crochet is then applied in turn to the finished knit piece. Seam as you knit can make the joining nearly invisible. Using Excel, I tried to also create crochet symbols using its shapes menu. The number of rows knit in open pattern or all knit prior to binding off is at your discretion, depending on your needs and planned final product. For my sample I began knitting with COR, and to end with COR for bind off row, I chose to work with even numbered groups of rows. Consider fiber content if the intent is to permanently block as flat as possible, or not.

my chart symbols

needle set up, waste yarn cast on, knit for the desired length bring one empty needle into work knit one row, bring remaining empty needle into work knit one row knit rows desired for top band transfer eon from L to the right latch tool bind off around gate pegs for all needles/stitches

do not cut yarn, lift work off the machine; turn work over (knit side facing)
chain 5, slip stitch into eyelet created by transfers, repeat across the knit, end with a slip stitch into last eyelet space detail_4121 turn work over (purl side facing once again), chain 3, 2 double crochet, slip stitch into the center of chain 5 space, repeat across the knit, end with a slip stitch into last chain 5 space unblocked trim, 2/15 acrylic yarn

detail after steaming, the trim is side leaning

To use: rehang open stitches on every needle (or other arrangements) eliminating ladder spaces and bind off, join to another piece of knitting, etc.

Single bed slits aka horizontal “button holes”

Related blog posts:
2022 More buttonholes and slits with illustrations including ribber variations.
I have previously shared posts exploring assorted meshes including some with large eyelets.
The formation of eyelets is sometimes offered as a buttonhole option in publications, a review of the stitch movements involved and the associated symbols: The first knit row will form a loop on the empty needle, while the second row knit with the next carriage pass completes the stitch
A larger eyelet, with directions found in most manuals, is not really the best option if used as a buttonhole. That said, these 2 methods render round, clean-edge larger eyelets This version is from the Brother Knitting Techniques Book, begins to address wider openings in knits

Many hand-knitting patterns are published, often in garter stitch, using slits that one may think of as larger “buttonholes” to create a range of interesting fabrics. Trying to produce such slits single bed, without the use of additional strands of yarn and in turn, having yarn ends to weave in, leaves few options.
This method may also be used when creating multiple slits across a row. Holding is used to break the knitting into segments. The drawn illustrations show steps are taken, not needle positions.
COR, for the bottom of the slit:
1. transfer the first stitch in the buttonhole group onto the adjacent needle to its right 2. transfer the pair of stitches together onto the now empty needle to their left. The knit carriage, holding the yarn, will be on the right3. push the needle forward until the first stitch (green) passes over the needle’s latch 4. push the needle back to the work position5. the forward stitch (red) is now knit through the one behind the latch This essentially binds off a stitch.
Repeat steps 1-5 until the number of bound-off stitches required is met; the last stitch in the group is then transferred onto the adjacent needle to its left. The bottom edge of the “buttonhole” is now complete. To make the top edge of the buttonhole/ slit bring its corresponding needles out to hold, and cast on the desired number of stitches with the latch tool from right to left. In order to best accomplish this with COR set KM for holding, push empty needles back to A position, knit up to now empty “buttonhole” needles bring empty needles out to hold insert latch hook from back to front through below the last stitch now knit on the right twist tool clockwise bring empty needles out to hold come up between the first 2 needles on the group’s right continue with latch tool bind off, the last loop in the chain is hung on needle already holding 2 stitches from the last bind off transfer tighten up the loop
return “buttonhole” stitches into needle hooks, back to B position
COL: set KM to slip in both directions and move to right COR: cancel holding, adjust tension, knit across remaining stitches to LCOL: cancel slip <–>, continue knitting This version is from an ancient Brother manual, always test techniques on swatches using the yarns intended for the final piece

A hand-knit response to a Pinterest request: variations in rib with holes

Thread Lace on Brother KM

This post originally did not offer repeats for the design, they are presented here in a 2024 review of content.

Thread lace has also been called punch lace over the years. The “lace holes” are formed by knitting a fine thread with a significantly thicker yarn as the “second color”. When the fine yarn knits (B), a larger stitch in it alone is formed, with the thicker yarn floating behind it. The thicker yarn goes in Brother’s A feeder, the thinner in B. In FI patterning, the unpunched holes/ blank squares/ no pixels are knit in the yarn in feeder A, and punched holes/ black squares/ pixels are knit in B feeder yarn. In thread lace both yarns knit the unselected needles, corresponding to blanks in the card or blank squares/ unmarked pixels. The tension may need to be adjusted due to this fact.
Test swatches for tolerance to pressing/ steaming to make certain the final garment will bear blocking and cleaning. I had a sweater front finished using an industry “clear” thread, thankfully tried to iron it before finishing starting other pieces, and discovered a lovely melting quality to the clear “thread”. In theory, clear serger thread should be safe to use, there are 2 easily available manufacturers. YLI brand (nylon) is stocked at most chain stores that carry sewing supplies. One “light / clear” is “whiter” than others; there is a “smoke” version as well, sold on cones. Both produce a bit of a sheen on the surface of the knit fabric. Sulky (polyester) clear is sold on spools and is superior for sewing pieces together, zippers, etc with no “sharp” when the cut ends poking at the skin, but at a different price point and quantity.
This was my garment’s test swatch, the black is a wool rayon yarn.punchcard repeat:the associated 24X72 png The fabric is much quicker to produce than traditional transfer lace.
Cards can easily be drawn by filling in solid shapes over a mesh ie the repeat seen in the 1X1 card.
Double length may produce an interesting fabric as well.
End needle selection needs to be canceled. If end needles are selected because of the pattern repeat, push those needles back to the B position manually before knitting the next row. The latter step ensures that both yarns will knit together. On electronic models one can program the number of repeats planned and add blank rows on either side of the repeat prior to downloading for all knit borders on both sides of the piece.
Either side may be used as the “public side”, depending on personal preference. The thread lace option is also available in the 260 bulky machines. Here a very thin acrylic was used as the “thin” at the start of the swatch, monofilament for the remainder (bulky KM) punchcard: 24X54 png A floral repeat card

the 24X80 png The thin rayon is noticed especially over a dark ground in the finished piece, not as much as in this view. The fabric will lie flat when pressed, here it was steamed lightly A closer look The old sample, knit with monofilament as color 2, the repeat is suitable only for an electronic, even if only half is used Uncertain as to the repeat in the present time, here it is reconstructed to a 52X48 png. A new proof of concept swatch, knit in rayon yarn and a shiny sewing cotton Taking it to a garment (standard KM): color 1 = wool/rayon blend, color 2 = sewing thread. Note the difference in color where there is no needle selection for pattern, and how one color is more prominent on one side than the other. Sometimes the latter may be used to advantage when the goal is a plaited fabric, but no plaiting feeder is available. Simply program in a blank row, and position threads using the thread lace setting to produce the knit.The card: the 24X56 png some needle selection was eliminated in the knit piece to allow for a transition to the new, smaller design repeat The chart for the small repeat used in the upper body A larger, electronic repeat found on an ancient 560 mylar of mine to play with
32X40 32X80
64X40 I knit on a 910 electronic, with no option for such fabrics built into the knit carriage. I was able, however, to modify and use my punchcard carriage with the intent of producing yet another “unconventional”, ribbed fabric. Added tips: the tension dial usually ends to be a bit tighter than stocking stitch. The fabric produced is also thinner and shorter than stocking stitch, as is fair isle. The finished fabric tends to elongate with rest after blocking.
The setting may be used instead of plating. A plated, solid fabric is produced by non-selected needles. The thread lace thread tends to appear on the knit side, as opposed to the plating yarn, which appears on the purl side. The color mix may appear less even than in traditional plating. Simply lock the card or needle selection on an all “blank” row.
If the “lace” thread is too thick or too contrasting in color, the eyelet pattern may be lost.
Simple geometric shapes are best.
Some knit weaving patterns may also work well.
In terms of altering the repeats using the buttons on the electronic models, double length or sometimes double wide as well as vertical mirroring may produce interesting results.
Sewing or serger threads may serve as the thin yarn and match yarn color well if that is desired. A sort of “sock” may help with more even feeding, the mesh used here was from a florist, netting from supermarket products ie unusual fruit can come in handy as well On the select/memorize row both yarns are fed into the same feeder (A) as the thick yarn, and the “lace” yarn is then removed and placed in the second feeder (B).
An option for drawing your own patterns: shapes can be superimposed on mesh designs as described in “filet crochet” posts, with no elongation of the motif.
A sample of a floral on a transfer lace mesh, one of my one-off scarves from eons ago Punchcard machine owners may use tape over sections of card number 2, or card 1 which in turn gives the option of testing the design elongation X 2 for both eyelets and motif as well. The tape may be moved to suit, and once the pattern is satisfactory, the final pattern design card may be punched.
Both Brother and Studio offer the cards in their standard punchcard assortment with the purchase of respective machines. A later blog post on the topic with additional information on yarn placement, settings, and more: 2019/02/25/tuck-stitch-meets-thread-lace-repeats-and-vice-versa/

Knitting in pattern with 2 carriages, Brother punchcard KMs 1

I touched on knitting with 2 carriages in some previous posts:
2011/03/30/knitting-with-2-carriages/
2011/03/29/lace-meets-hold-and-goes-round/
2015/03/31/combining-tuck-stitches-with-lace-2-automating-them/

If 2 carriages are in use for patterning extension rails are a must. For this discussion we are excluding the lace carriage as the #2, the intent is to use 2 knit carriages with each set to desired cam functions. As one carriage is put to rest and the other one is set to move from the opposite side, the card does not advance, so the last row selected is repeated one more time. In one of those lightbulb moments today (any excuse not to do laundry) it occurred to me that starting out with an odd number repeat pre-punched card, coming from the opposite direction at the end of each odd row repeat, an even-numbered repeat would actually be knit. The card below is a Brother issue with all standard knitting machines. Card number (2 in this instance) may vary, depending on the year of purchase. Color changes here as well would have to be planned for every even number of rows, so respective carriages can travel to and from each side.

The swatch below begins with locked selection row on punchcard row marked #1 (standard location); tuck setting is used in first 2 segments, FI on third; pattern produced is “OK”, but not actually tucking for 4 consecutive rows; note how much narrower FI is than tuck. Tuck tends to be short and fat, slip and fair isle short and skinny when compared to plain knit in same yarns

Since Brother preselects for the next row of knitting, setting the first selection row one locked below the usual spot on in this case #48 got me what I wanted, each color now tucking for 4 rows

Then something a bit more exciting occurred to me; one is an odd number, so any card where single rows are punched could be executed in theory, changing color every 2 rows (remembering to start with first selection row one row below # 1-row mark on the card). This sample was knit with 2 carriages, using a maze card, illustrated in a previous post, in which each row had been punched only one time, requiring for the repeat to be elongated X2

the image from the previous post

Using 2 carriages allows for combining yarns using different tensions, cam settings, fiber content, or sometimes using materials that the single bed color changer is not “friendly” with. Also, there is no pushing the wrong button, causing errors in sequence, or dropped knitting if no yarn is picked up.

A punchcard carriage may be used on electronic machines. I work on a KH892, and a 910. The 910 is from a much earlier model year than the punchcard machine. The back rail for the KH to travel on, is a different shape, with slits as opposed to smooth, and a bit more raised. The electronic carriage set on KC locks on the belt and advances the card appropriately, but the fit is quite snug, making it hard to push, while the 892 behaved well on the 910. If borrowing carriages and sinker plates from different model years or one type of machine to use on another, proceed with caution and listen to your machine. Sometimes the span of time between model issues is irrelevant, even if model years are only a year apart, and the swap is not the best for successful knitting, may “work” in one direction, but not as well in the other.

sample back rails: 910 892

Dec 7, 2018 Knitting studio simple lace with 2 lace carriages transferring stitches

A bit of holding 4: intarsia and more

Picture knitting/intarsia may at times be achieved using holding techniques. As in any such knitting, supplies include extras such as bobbins, clothespins, or weighted clips, but no separate carriage. If the ribber is in use and one is working on a large piece, ribber covers allow the yarns to hang in front of the ribber bed.

Some of the rules for accomplishing this using short rows: it is helpful to work from a chart. Two-row sequences are required, so having the working chart double-length makes the process easier to visualize. “Follow” knitting directions with any tool to determine that the pattern is executable, with no long floats or slits.

The bottom of any diagonal line is always knit first.

Needles are brought out to hold on the carriage side, and pushed back into work opposite the carriage; one exception to this rule is if “automatic wrapping” is used. In the latter one, fewer needles are brought into hold than needed opposite the carriage, the row is knit, then with the carriage on the alternate side the first needle in hold next to stitches just knit is brought out to hold, resulting in a “wrap” and correcting the count to the desired number. Any number of needles may be pushed back into work at any time. More than single stitches brought to hold on the carriage side will produce floats.

When knitting shapes the only needles in work are those being worked to create that shape.

Base rows of knitting, whether in waste yarn or as part of the pattern, are needed prior to working in the holding position.

Remember that you are working on the purl side, so any image will be flipped horizontally on the knit side. Reverse the chart horizontally before working it if direction matters.

Begin with a simple shape. Letters indicate the knitting sequence for short-rowed sections. Patterning in these charts begins with COR, bold lines separate areas of plain knitting, letters indicate the order for executing short row segments. The fabric produced lies flat, with no noticeable 3D protrusions.

marking sequences with numbers is easier for me to follow; color changes help define segments, but do not reflect final colors in the design

a supermini swatch: holes are typical both in intarsia and in short rows if no wrapping occurs be prepared to weave in a lot of yarn ends going larger, note the wider “steps” created more complex geometry: line drawing on “graph paper”the start of color placement sequence for executing segments at the completion of the design in actual knitting the pattern must be elongated X2

I find it helpful to use familiar yarn and to work variations of a familiar shape prior to taking on more complex patterns. Below is a cousin of the first shape illustrated in this post, with a pattern worked beginning COL, repeated across the row, increments in the number of stitches worked in short rows but mirrored on both shape sides (shown in the first swatch segment).

filling in to produce a flat fabric, with straight sides: the bottom segment the top segment the amended chart

Some of the same shapes may be placed on a shaped edge. The repeat will likely need some editing; arrows indicate the direction of knitting for that row. If the background color is used for casting on and binding off, then the isolated shape floats on the ground, and the horizontal line of contrast color is eliminated.

creating an outline of shape with Color 1 horizontal rotation to achieve “leaf” shape melding shapes don’t like wrapping? for smaller holes offset the return to work position upper half of the shape by one less needle at the start, added at the end.
A first look at knitting direction and at stacking shapes, with bound-off stitches

combo_2935 The start of a smooth shaping sequence for those “leaf shapes” on the machine

The yarn used is acrylic, so pressing helps to make the shapes lie flat. Once again, using wool or any other yarn with “memory” will result in considerable curl at the side and at the top and bottom of the knit piece, so that is a consideration in putting in the effort. The more striping, the more yarn ends to weave in and row counts to watch. Using space-dyed or sock yarns may produce pleasing though unplanned stripe patterns in any of the shapes. My samples are not resolved final fabrics. There are many inspiring patterns available for purchase or at times free on the internet for hand knitting, usually in garter stitch as well as holding, resulting in a nearly square gauge, flat-lying knit.

Taking it to garments: accessories are easiest, since the gauge may not be significant. Shawl shapes in HK are often knit on circular needles, without the constraint of the fixed number of needles on any particular model KM. Sometimes, with adjustments, the same shapes may be rotated sideways on the KM. Segment sizes may differ due to the resulting change in gauge. Sampling techniques and shapes in smaller versions help work out the kinks.

Sources for inspiration: large-scale shapes

http://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=7365&cid=17
http://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=7543&cid=17
http://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=7375&cid=17
http://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=7099&cid=17
http://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=6729&cid=17
http://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=6333&cid=17
http://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=6001&cid=17

more details, varying concentration, and placement: free pattern
http://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=7606&cid=17

for purchase on Ravelry
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/endless-rainbow
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rigoles
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dreambird-kal
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/scarf-with-flames
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/phoenix-wing—phoenix-flugel
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/spring-plumage
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hundertwasser-neptunia
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/swingtrelac

A bit of holding 3: shape variations and more

Hand-knit spiraling shawls and shawlettes often involve shaping on every row. Increasing essentially requires casting on one or more stitches. Below are cast on illustrations from varied sources I used in handouts in my intro to knitting classes

A simple decrease occurs when the last stitch on either side is transferred moving away from the carriage, the empty needle is placed out of work, and the row is knit.

This illustration shows a fully fashioned version, which gives an edge that makes seaming easier and more attractive, and eliminates the small bumps usually seen along decrease edges, the process adds to knitting time involved in finishing the piece. Decreases may be made on every row.

Simple increases: a factor that is often first noticed when approaching seaming is that the carriage side creates loops, while opposite the carriage one gets what looks like a knot, both alternate as starting position of the carriage swaps sides. To speed things up for single increases, one alternative is to bring an empty needle into work on the carriage side. This creates an elongated loop rather than a full stitch. Unless intended as a design feature, the edge is not the best one for seaming. A better-looking increase is created by putting a needle into work opposite the carriage. For a “good edge” two rows minimum of knitting need to occur prior to the next increase. Continuing on the thread begun in the last 2 posts, I experimented with every row increases and came up with what I consider a reasonable compromise. The method for increases on the right edge:
*COR: bring an empty needle into work on the carriage side, knit a row. Insert transfer tool into the loop created as shown, turn toward carriage (in this case clockwise), essentially creating an e wrap, hang on adjacent empty needle hook.

increase every row

COL knit to right*, repeat * *
In the previous 2 posts’ samples I did not wrap any needles. Wrapping in both directions can create an interesting line along the center of the “leaf” or “other” shapes, seen in the photo below

Interpreting hand knit patterns for use on the machine requires translations of some of the vocabulary and directions are given. If an edge stitch is made in garter or slip stitch variations, disregard and simply add it to the total number of stitches on the segment of the needle bed that is being worked on. Wrap and turn is executed by wrapping the yarn around the adjacent needle in hold prior to knitting back to the opposite side

2: knit <- 1: wrap COR 1: wrap COL 2: knit ->

pw2: picking up wraps and knitting them together happens when needles with wrapped loop and stitch behind it are brought back into work.
The terminology may vary in self-published patterns, some are accompanied by very good tutorials. Ravelry HK searches can provide inspiration for many holding technique variations. Other terms to look for in image and pattern searches include swing knitting, and on occasion, tapestry knitting.

A bit of holding 2 / moving shapes around

There are many handknit patterns floating around the internet, placing shapes similar to these, with many variations, along with a variety of locations in accessories and sweaters. The same shape discussed in the previous post is shown here placed near and then at the edge of the knit. There are many things to consider in addition to the choice of shape. In hand knitting these patterns are usually knit in garter stitch, a fabric that does a good job of lying flat when completed. Short rows are used in both hand and machine knitting; the Brother G carriage produces it “automatically”, but is not short row friendly. The more practical solution is to try a plain knit version. Edges of the knit are still going to curl toward the purls side. Some of this can be averted by using acrylic or other fiber yarn that responds to being “killed” with ironing/ steaming, and will lie as close to flat as possible after the fact. Section A shows the shape knit with no color change and close to the side of the knit, note the vertical edge remains fairly straight. In section B stitches were cast on, and at the end of the holding sequence all stitches are knit moving from right to left. An increase in the number of stitches cast on is now reflected in the total width of the fabric. The result of multiple repeats would appear as a sort of “ruffle”. In section C the same number of stitches are bound off as cast on. The bind off is critical for shape retention. I prefer a latch tool cast off for most knits, here I used the *transfer over one, knit one* method, note: the turning point sharpness is lost and the bound-off edge is very different from the cast on one. In this instance, because the number of stitches increased and decreased stitches are identical, if repeats were executed and no other increases were made anywhere, the width of the final piece would remain constant. If the goal was to achieve a triangular shape such as in a shawl, increases would have to be made along the edges of the plain knit sections, prior to the color change for section C. In testing repeats I do not wrap any needles. Evaluate whether the extra step is needed when swatching in your final yarn choice.

the swatch

planning the shapes, arrows indicate the direction of carriage moves

cast on stitches are knit as part of the last row

cast on stitches are bound off prior to last row

The last sample was also knit using the same yarn, followed by pressing. Again, I did not do any wrapping, and holes created along the edges of the holding sequences are more visible. The swatch was knit from the bottom edge up. The cast on used was a weaving cast on. Both the bottom and the top edges show some of the distortions in the knit caused by the extra rows of knitting that occur in the shapes. Striping is added to the now-familiar sequence, additional colors could be used, with shapes and stripes varied in the placement along with a wider, longer piece of knitting to create interesting repeats. The top shows the start of a larger shape that could be altered to resemble leaves, etc.

for a larger shape

for a striped surroundknit side purl side