A wealth of information for owners of Superba knitting Machines includes a blog, and its creator, Patrick Madden, has contributed frequent, beautifully photographed tutorials for owners of these machines on Ravelry, with an extensive photo library on Flickr as well, as P.Madden.
A recent MK forum request for a HK trim look alike led me to the following experiment :
the hand knit trim
There are multiple ways to achieve knit and purl combinations on the KM. Brother garter carriage will do so “automatically” albeit slowly, ribbers may be used in combination with main beds, ladders may be latched up by hand, or one may use the garter bars to turn work over. When large widths are required the options are to use multiple panels, or to knit the fabric sideways letting the width become the length. Some HK fabrics are impractical if not impossible to duplicate on standard home knitting machines, and compromises are chosen. I tried to create a distant relative of the proposed trim, with a bit of family resemblance.
Below the short section to my garter bar is pictured. I mark every 10 eyelets with nail polish on my GBs to help with tracking stitch counts (do same with centers of ribber combs). The photo shows it in the position in which it needs to be held to take stitches off the machine prior to turning them over. The hollows under the eyelets (1) provide room for the needle hooks to slip under the yarn and catch the stitches when work is flipped over. Hollows under eyelets occur on the side with the convex ridge (2). There are many online sources for using the bars, now available in multiple gauges, including an article by Susan Guagliumi.
my working graph
I worked my edging on multiple of 12 stitches. The purl/knit symbols represent how the knit will appear when viewed on side where held shape is convex. Work begins by knitting foundation rows, and using waste yarn at the start with open stitches on first row of knit if the ruffle is to be seamed/joined at its ends upon completion. The magenta/green rows represent respective whole rows to be turned to reverse side using the garter bar after each knitting sequence is completed. Testing first is required to establish the optimum stitch size for gauge that will allow for easy stitch movement in transferring stitches on and off the garter bar:
arrows on blue ground indicate position of KC at beginning of sequences
end knitting of first “purl” section COR, turn work over (magenta)
COL: knit one row across all stitches, carriage moves to right (pink). I find it easier after holding starts to move the carriage to opposite side by taking it physically off the machine and leaving settings alone, results in fewer yarn tangles and problems for me.
COR: set machine for hold except for first 2 stitches on right. I tried one stitch at a time first, but the wedge was too deep, so I began working bringing stitches to hold 2 at a time, carriage side first. Stitches could be held opposite the carriage as well, but that created a set of additional holes when one returns to knitting those stitches in the opposite direction, and a pointy edge (segment marked with dot #2, more on a later post on miters and spirals). The number of stitches brought to hold can be varied as needed, the goal here is a symmetrical result.
COR: when only 2 needles at left are left in hold opposite carriage, knit an even number of rows (orange area, I chose to knit 4, then 6 rows in my test)
COR: when last 2 stitches on right have been knit for 2 rows (green) transfer all the stitches to garter bar
Get carriage to left, COL: return stitches to needles, knit for an odd number of rows (magenta,COR), turn work over
COL: knit one row across all stitches to right (pink)
COR: begin holding sequence again
I began the sample with 5 rows in between the mitered shapes, and then tried 11. This is labor intensive if produced in significant lengths, so a choice can be made depending on personal taste and patience. Though it could be attached as one knits the item it is intended to trim, there is enough going on I would probably estimate the length, take it off on waste yarn, and hang it onto the larger item. If longer, the trim may be unraveled to suit. If an addition is required it may be added on but at least working with the much larger bulk of materials will not be for the duration. Holding lever may be set to knit for single passes prior to turning work over in sections using holding, or stitches may be pushed into work by hand.
dot 1 rests on “killed acrylic” repeat test, the remaining sample in knit in wool: dot 2 marks the extra holes when the holding sequence is changed as described above
with five “purl” rows between turning and holding
11 “purl” rows between turning and holding
the reverse side
about half the wool portion of the ruffle was pressed, the knit became smoother, the edges less rolled. Those are properties that can become a design choice/decision
If an all stocking stitch ruffle serves the purpose this could be the start of the working repeat for using slip stitch to knit programmed needles selected to patterning position; here the black dots represent areas that knit, white squares stitches in holding. The repeat must be an even number of rows, using it as drawn starting side depends on whether one is using a punchcard machine or electronics
Youtube video channel for Knitalong Cafe.
I am a fan of color symbols for techniques both in hand and machine knitting. Had thought about starting a thread on using color in cable charting, but someone else has already done a great job of writing on some of the topic’s details. See Eunny Knit!
A video on this topic. I work using Mac OS 10.10 at the moment. When I first wrote on this topic, I downloaded a then free converter The app, Aztec Code Generator, is now no longer free (11/2015), but costs $ 1.99 to purchase. There is a still free, online QR generator
my beginning code
the original image size was reduced to 60 pixels square, and in turn to 40 pixels square respectively, then magnified to 600 times for superimposing the single stitch grid as described in video; screen captured image saves are needed for saving gridded images
the 60 stitch repeat
the 40 stitch repeat
using the aztec code generator to control output size
X1,000, cropped and gridded
not all units are created equal: areas numbered indicate where some of the horizontal units are 5 wide rather than as most 4, and closer inspection will reveal the same for some vertical units. Reconfiguring the grid ie to 4X4 pixels would be an alternative way to “resize” the image, but fails because of the disparities when the unit is applied overall
trying the same process on this BW jpeg, the resulting repeats require further clean up and editing along edges of shapes
using GIMP: 40 stitch repeat, no additional scaling, converted to 1bit BW, could use a bit of clean up, I prefer to work with a black grid
please note these scroll graphs are not accurate working repeats to be knit as they are
11/2015_Knitting’ low resolution is reflected in the number of stitches and rows per inch or per repeat. In this instance Gimp was again used to scale and process the image
Today’s generated image: happy holidays QR code, Aztec code generator, 300 pixels square including white border
scaling, gridding for 30 stitch repeat
for 24 stitch repeat: note loss of detail as stitch and row count is reduced
The above begs many questions. Upon investigation it appears there are 18 2D bar code variants, some static, some dynamic. Qrme is a UK site that provides information on trackable QR codes, forums and more. Their page shows scaled in size codes modules.
This is the latest type of fabric to cross my radar. One publication readily available online is at Susan Guagliumi’s website (log in and sign up required initially). My own in progress notes/ideas Pleats in full needle rib2, and SINGLE BED PLEATS. Some single bed pleating may be automated. Revisions, additions and photos will follow.
For anyone interested on the topic e site Woolly Thoughts includes some excellent tutorials and more.