This experiment began with this full published punchcard chart, 24X40 cells
The related PNG, 24X20, 
was tested on the 930 electronic machine.
Weight and tension adjustments led to avoiding dropped stitches, familiar to many with experience using the lace carriage (LC) to make the needle selections and transfers.
The side borders can be planned to be vertical columns of knit stitches or with shaping created by the transfers. 
Reverse engineering, from punchcard repeat to a hand technique chart begins with color coding the transfers, cyan to the left, magenta to the right.
The punchcard machine automatically reverses programmed motifs, but in charting for hand techniques place the symbols and their direction are as intended with the purl side facing.
This start
led to the first draft for use on the bulky.
Needle beds and tapes may be marked in a variety of ways to help track hand techniques. Custom needle tapes on any model can be printed to scale and inserted under needles for similar guidance.
Claudia Scarpa has published tapes for a large range of needle spacings on her blog. They are numbered and in colors to match factory tapes for both full needle beds.
Mac experiments on printing needle tapes and punchcard templates to scale and other tips shares 4.55mm bed downloadable documents.
Each table cell in my bulky DIY measures 22X26 points in a Mac Numbers, an editable spreadsheet: bulky tape
The related PDF file, needle tapes only bulky , printed to the correct scale using these setting adjustments.
The 23-cell table screen grabbed, opened in gimp, cropped to content, 1177X91,
also printed to proper scale and offers the opportunity to fill individual cells or blocks with specific colors using the fuzzy select/ magic wand tool 
The 9mm tape is shown in place with markings chosen to match the chart for alternate pairs of rows.
The result is with knit rows after each series of transfers.
A side-by-side view/comparison, highlighting differences in the number and size of the eyelets. 
Readjusting the repeat, shown in progress; the rows marked with red cells take into consideration the actions of the automated LC selection.
The transfer in each segment is made first, and then subsequent selections and transfers are made until the final eyelet is formed in the desired place for each of the following segments.
The yellow cells represent blank rows in the cards.
Multiple transfer tools, in this case a 2-prong one, can be used to make the multiple stitch transfers in single moves.
The final repeat is collapsed to place eyelets in the proper location and is reduced to 8 rows in height.
The knitting in progress on the bulky machine illustrates transfer rows, 
and shares its appearance with this test on the 930 knit using 3/8 wool
This 31 stitch swatch was executed first on the bulky km following a chart, 
measures 8.75 inches, 22.25 cm in width at its widest point.
On the standard machine, a 31 stitch X 15 row PNG program was used to help track transfers.
The chosen yarn was a 2/8 wool, 
the swatch measured 4.25 inches at its widest point, as opposed to the bulky, 8.75 inches at same.
Here the swatches are compared side by side. 
Category: Bulky Knit
Tuck and garter stitch: from hand knit to machine knit 2
I don’t usually write posts narrating in the first person, but here I am making an exception.
At the end of 2015, I attempted to reproduce a free hand-knit pattern shared and published on the Purl SOHO website and on Ravelry 
on the machine, and the related test swatch was a whopping 9 stitches wide.
At the time, I used the hold setting in the knit carriage to form alternating loops.
With my bulky now set up again, I wondered about a different approach.
The necessary loops can form with the use the tuck <-> setting.
The carriage needs to be on the side where the yarn is available on every pattern row before following carriage passes.
Using the hold button to bring the carriage to the opposite side after turning the work over would require all needles to be in the E position, making consideration for needle manual preselection for 2 positions necessary.
For this swatch, I chose to take the carriage off the bed and move it to the appropriate side as needed.
The knit carriage can perform tuck or slip functions without the addition of automatic patterning.
Needles hand-selected to the D or E position will knit; any remaining in the B position will tuck.
In this instance, colored cells in the chart represent D or E position needles, and white cells represent needles in B.
The repeat is an odd number of needles in width, 6 rows in height. 
The work is turned over after selecting and knitting rows 1 and 2, 4 and 5, but not after rows 3 and 6. The only row that knits with the carriage starting from the left is row 6.
Tools that can increase speed: any flat, hard-edged one to push groups of needles forward or back, in this case, my single bed cast-on comb, one to facilitate every other needle selection, and a bulky garter bar.
The bulky machine was equipped with a single bed cast on comb. I do not find it pleasingly useful, and resort to the single bed one if needed.
The yarns I initially chose were painfully prone to splitting, helping to expand my use of expletives.
Once I found a more manageable yarn pairing, the actions became rhythmic as the piece grew in length.
My hack for evenly distributed weight and stitch management was to use the standard cast-on comb poked through some waste yarn, with the addition of a small ribber weight placed in the center hole. Both were left on throughout the process. 
When it was time to use the garter bar to turn the work over, with all the needles pushed out to the E position, it was easy to tug down on the comb and pull the knitting forward on the bed after checking that all the latches were closed and that the grooved side of the garter bar was facing up.
If some of the stitches are not moved properly and the work needs to be pushed back for another attempt, some eyelets of the garter bar may be stuck behind any closed needle latches and cannot come past them. Push the bar further back, make certain all latches are open, and it will then be able to move past them.
With the yarn removed from the carriage, the work can then be turned over.
With all needles in the E position, check that all latches are open, and replace stitches in the needle hooks.
After checking visually that the yarn is transferred properly and present in all needle hooks, the bar is shifted forward, free and away from both. 
It is possible at that point to use the straight edge to push the needle butts back to move all the needles/ stitches back to the B position, 
and then to pull down on the bar to remove it.
The carriage is brought to the opposite side, yarn is returned to the feeder, needle selection is made, and knitting continues.
The proof of concept:
Experiments on Brother 260 bulky KM 1
I no longer own any Passap equipment.
The added space has allowed my setting up the bulky model, perhaps the most underused of my km collection over the years, except for the winter season felt hat production. 
Although my yarn stash was reduced dramatically with my downsizing, there are still some balls and cones remaining from those days, or certainly, multiple strands of thinner yarns may be used together.
The post Brother machines, punchcards, and their use offers basic info, while the one sharing symbols and card samples will help identify suitable designs for potential knit settings.
Decades of knitting on the 4.5 mm models make for interesting adjustments in the switch of materials and scale.
I am including some results here that are found through searching through former posts, but were not categorized as bulky knits at the time they were initially published.
Cables can be hard to achieve across full needle beds because the yarn is forced to move across fixed distances on metal beds.
The links to the full series of previous posts on the topic can be found in the blog index.
This sequence was tried first on the standard; resulting crossings were nearly invisible.
The bulky swatch took some coaxing on the knit rows, and a very loose tension to make it possible.
The how-to: after casting on an uneven number of needles and some base rows, cable crossings are made every other row. Either side of the bed can serve as the starting side, depending on personal preference. If beginning on the left,
1: COL, begin cabling with the first pair of needles on the left, moving pairs of stitches in the same direction across the row; there will be a single remaining stitch on the right
2: knit one row to the right
3: COR, skip the first stitch on the left, and begin cabling with the second pair of stitches, moving them in the opposite direction of those in the first cable crossing row until COR is reached
4: COR, knit one row back to the left
Repeat steps 1-4
Lace
Producing large eyelets with hand manipulation of stitches is possible on the bulky machine as well.
Planning vertical straight bands in a spreadsheet: 
Some steps are illustrated in progress below.
The yarn used is a 4/10 wool with a soft hand.
The repeat is a multiple of 3+2 stitches that serve as single stitch vertical borders, along with single stitch eyelets on each side.
Transfers are made toward the center of each 3-stitch group every 4 rows.
The illustrations:
1. After the transfers are completed, there will be side-by-side empty needles. As the next row is knit, each empty needle will hold a loop. The method used to help them become stitches, except for the first row of eyelets, is one illustrated for buttonholes in a Brother manual.
2. The double loops are dropped
3, 4. A single eye tool is inserted from the back of the loop, twisted to the front, and the e-wrapped yarn is rehung on the first empty needle. The process is repeated with the second loop/empty needle
5. Formerly empty needles now hold twisted/wrapped yarn
6. The eyelets on the machine are approximately the size of a dime. 
The finished swatch, knit on 26 stitches, measures 6.25X4.25 inches in the patterned areas after steaming and pressing. 
In a different needle arrangement, 
the loops are secured by the next set of transfers. 
Every other group of transfers is planned for single eyelets along the side edges. 
At the top of the swatch, rather than e-wrapping, the empty needles were brought into work alternately over 2 carriage passes, creating a pair of smaller eyelets 
A 2013 post looked at ladder “lace”, with the use of a card to aid with proper needle selection, yielding the bulky sample below. 
In this swatch, eyelets produced with hand transfers echo the movement.
Colored cell vertical columns represent locations for needle positions where stitches remain undisturbed throughout.
Arrows indicate the direction of the transfers made with a 3-prong tool in each 8-row stitch group.
Markings in DIY can be varied to suit. The 31-stitch swatch measures 8.75 inches, 22.25 cm in width at its widest point. The same 31X16 row repeat was knit on the standard machine, with a repeat programmed to help track transfers.
The result measured 4.25 inches at its widest point. This image shows the gauge difference side by side. This pattern is created by forming large eyelets as well. Symbols and charts exploring designs have evolved over the years.
Using the method seen in some of my latest posts: 
The series of double eyelets can be shortened, as seen at the bottom of the swatch.
The long floats created by the double empty needles are handled as described in the previous share.
The swatch was knit on 26 stitches, measures 6 inches in width. 
More inspiration may be found in the post on textures in needles out of workspaces.
Revisiting lace leaf design repeats 2 shared a 12X52 row design 
knit on 38 stitches. 
Lace punchcards_use on the Brother 260 Bulky offered a few methods for using both Brother and Studio lace published repeats.
This sample was used with a longer, 24X68 row punchcard using 2 carriages and extension rails.
The extension rails on the bulky have arms that are different lengths. The bulky rail is shown compared to the one for the standard, with a white tag on it. 
Their placement is easy to assess, but if the front arm has not clearly snapped into place with an audible noise, the rails can make it hard to push the carriage out to the needed position or even become flying projectiles.
Using 2 carriages
Knit some base rows.
The carriage used to select needles need not have a sinker plate in place.
Its end needle selection is cancelled, and it operates from the left side as the LC does on the standard.
It holds no yarn.
Deactivate its row counter.
Push in both its part/slip buttons.
The carriage used for the 2 knit rows separating design segments operates from the right, is set to knit, and does not advance the punchcard. Activate its row counter for future gauge calculations.
Knitting:
1. Lock the card on the first row as would be done on a standard machine.
2. COL, the first selection row is made left to right. Subsequent transfers can then be made by hand in the direction of the arrows on the card if they are available, or simply away from the carriage. All needles must be returned to the B position. When the KH carriage is set to slip, it is the selected needles that actually knit stitches. If the carriage moves across those same needles with no yarn in the feeder, selected needles will drop their corresponding stitches.
3. COR, set the card to advance “normally”, transfer selected needles to the left, and move the carriage itself to the left.
4. COL, transfer preselected needles to the right, and follow with a knit row to the right.
Continue to make transfers that the lace carriage would have made. In this instance, there will be 2 passes of the selecting carriage with no preselection, indicating the place for the next pair of knit rows from the right, end COL.
4. COR, knit 2 rows, or more if the lace pattern requires it, end COR.
Return to needle preselection with the selecting carriage from the left.
Although the bulky offered a single bed cast on comb, the ribber cast on comb and a single small ribber weight seemed to be the best way to ensure proper knitting. 
Areas where 3 stitches were placed on single needles needed occasional coaxing for the stitch in the next row to be knit through them completely.
The swatch was knitted on 37 stitches, for 2 full repeats in height, and measures 13X9.25 inches. 
Exploring a lace repeat in multiple ways: the punchcard repeat was developed from the hand transfers chart, shared with the corresponding standard gauge LC automated swatch, and hand transferred one on the 260 bulky.
The bulky swatch was knit on a multiple of 6+3 stitches, with a planned 2-stitch border on either side. A custom needle tape was in place to aid in proper needle selection. The repeat is easy to track once the pattern is established
From 2015, a hand technique, A block lace pattern on the machine
Ladder spaces meet cable crossings
This design was tested on both the standard and the bulky, on the same number of stitches, 31.
The design 12 row repeat: circles represent stitch transfer location with the corresponding needles taken out of work, while orange cells point to locations where empty needles are returned to work, becoming the center stitch in each new group of 3. 
The needle tape markings served served guides to actions, the cyan and blue dots mark empty needles in each group after transfers are completed. Check for any transfer errors, ie, the red dot marks a needle with a stitch on it that should be empty. 
The swatch measures 8.25 inches in width. Since all crossings are in the same direction, it is hard to know whether large pieces would have a tendency to bias. 
Its scale compared to its standard knit companion, which in turn measures 4.75 inches in width
Short rows
A leaf lace never fully completed, from 2017
Thread lace
2025 Returning to thread lace, adding bulky knit samples
Knitweaving
2026 This knit-woven loop sample was knit using a technique described further in
A return to loopy knits and Machine-knit fringes 4, long loop patterning
E-wrapping the edge loops both before and after coming around the straw made for a better side edge.
It will be a while before my ribber will be set up. In the interim, previous posts with related info
More on Brother DBJ, including KR 260 bulky KM options
carriage settings and tips
Revisiting drop / release stitch lace 1. 
More on Brother DBJ, including KR 260 bulky KM options
Any repeat suitable for a 2 color 24 stitch DBJ separation, published or self-drawn for a 4.5mm machine, is suitable for DBJ on the bulky.
At times, yarns, ie, 2/8 to 3/8 wools that knit stocking stitch at tension 8-10 on the main bed and are too thick for every needle rib on the standard may produce a fabric that is not too dense, and still has some drape at the lower tension settings on both beds on the bulky.
Electronic standard knitters can double the size of the repeat before separating the 2 colors and then work on every other needle on both beds, proceeding as usual for DBJ.
Thicker yarns begin to make too thick a fabric for wearables, but may work well for other uses.
If some drape is required, the ladder-back method becomes the preferred one in bulky KM DBJ.
I no longer have the bulky DBJ samples from my teaching days, my 260 KM is not set up, so, for now, this post will not include swatch photos.
As always, swatching is a necessity to determine whether the resulting knit meets our expectations, preferences, and often, patience.
To review: the 260 KH carriage will be familiar to Brother punchcard 4.5 mm machine users and has the option for creating thread lace (“split” cam button in center position), which is not commonly available in Brother models. 
The Brother 270 electronic knit carriage offers similar settings
There is no automatic method for eliminating end needle selection ie KCII, rather, adjustments for it are made on the underside of the carriage, as in other punchcard machines 
in terms of DBJ, the electronics allow for the familiar KRC 2 color separation 
KR 260 parts, as described in the ribber manual, and followed by possible settings for cam levers are illustrated below. The absence of lili buttons is immediately noticeable. There is no automatic every-other needle selection on the bulky ribber carriage shown, as opposed to that choice being available on the standard KM.
slip to right 
slip to left 
slip both directions 
tuck to right 
tuck to left 
tuck both directions
hand selection tools for either bed, 4.5mm on top, sometimes interchangeable 
every needle selector for standard, operates similar to Jac 40, EON here for use bulky, adjustable 
17.5-inch workshop cut model in plastic for 2X2 selection on bulky 
nowadays 3D printed custom options are also beginning to be available
The DBJ setting that requires the least intervention on either standard or bulky machines is the one produced with the separated motif being knit with the ribber set to slip all needles in one direction, and to knit every needle in the other. Reproducing the lili effect on the KR 260 is achieved with hand needle selection. For birdseye, where every needle is in use on an even number of needles in work on the ribber, select every other needle on the ribber beginning with the second needle on the right for the preselection row, and push up to the holding position. The ribber carriage is set to slip both ways and will knit hand-selected needles as it makes its way to the opposite side. Now select every other needle on the ribber beginning with the first needle on the right, bringing those needles up to hold. Stitches on those needles will knit on the ribber as the carriage makes its way back to the left and to the color changer. Colors continue to be changed every 2 rows, as in any standard 2-color birdseye fabric.
Ladderback or modified Jacquard is at times used on standard machines specifically for the effect created on the fabric’s reverse side, and most often used with bulkier yarns to be able to make a garment with more drape than it may have in regular jacquard, or to knit large designs with no long floats.
This technique on the KR 260 ribber involves hand manipulation of the ribber stitches to reduce the number of stitches formed on the ribber as well.
Ribbing is often set up to produce a band that is not hugely different in stretch and width than the body of a garment, with further transfers for the ladder back configuration when it is completed.
No more than one needle is usually in work on the main bed beyond needles in work on the ribber bed. If an additional needle on the main bed is required, it should be on the left-hand side.
The rib is knit as tightly as possible, and tension is loosened as one progresses into the jacquard portion of the piece.
Common arrangements are 1X1, 1X3, 2X2, etc.
When needles are arranged in “even groups,” ie, 2X2, 2X4, 4X2, etc, the lili setting or manual needle selection to emulate it on the 260 may be used.
Tuck settings may be experimented with as well, but tend to create a more noticeable vertical line between ribbed repeats on the knit face.
The larger the number of needles in work on the main bed between ribber needles in work, the more the main bed tension needs to approach that used for the yarn when it is knit single bed.
In the EON ladder back tension increases are usually necessary to accommodate the number of stitches knitting plain on either or both beds.
The hand needle selection must remain constant throughout the piece to maintain the birdseye backing or any of its variants, which are based on pairs of needles alternating functions every 2 rows. This is the illustration for the lili actions from one of the Brother ribber manuals: 
The second needle on the carriage side knits with each pass, and the last needle away from the carriage knits. When hand-selecting, the rule may be reversed.
Striper backing is achieved by selecting the same needle for each of the 2 colors used, slipping the opposite color needle locations. The first needle selection on the right is easier to track by marking the location of the first needle used on that side on the needle tape or needle bed as a guide for subsequent rows.
The row counter will show double the number of rows than if the fabric were produced in Fair Isle. Four passes of the carriages complete one design row. The motif will appear elongated to a degree depending on the yarn and techniques used. Ladderback and vertical stripe backings may produce vertical separation lines in the fabric that may be quite noticeable depending on color, tension, and yarn used. Watch closely for dropped stitches or split ones. Splices and knots in yarn may tend to break due to the use of added weights and tension. Plan on adding new yarn at the sides and using the yarn ends to seam up, or use Russian join before the point at which a new yarn end is required, and continue knitting. The latter has become my favorite even in lace knitting on the standard machine. A recent tutorial on the technique may be found here https://www.mybluprint.com/article/this-method-of-joining-yarn-ends-is-pure-magic
Check the alignment and oiling requirements of machines frequently.
Other backings: one color backing. The main bed is set as normal for DBJ, but the ribber is set to knit for 2 rows of one color and to slip for 2 rows with the other color. This means on any machine (unless using 2 electronic carriages as described in another post), the operator has to change the ribber settings every 2 rows. It will now take 4 carriage passes to complete 2 rows of knitting. Floats will be formed in the non-backing color and may be caught on the ribber on slip rows, so check frequently, begin with small repeats, and always test new yarns, or even a different color or dye lot in the same yarn on swatches before committing to larger pieces.
Patterned backing: selection of ribber needles in blocks of alternate colors, or selecting ribber needles in between those selected on the main bed, applies here as well. Yarn thickness and end product serve as guides as to whether the fabric serves one’s purpose or preference.
In large areas of solid color on the garment face, if bleed-through is noticeable, a pattern of 2 black rows alternating 2 white ones may need to be programmed, with color changes continuing as in pattern areas. If the goal is simply to match density or drape, then continue in settings used for the design area without color changing. Most punchcard double jacquard separations and “rules” apply to both standard and bulky machines.
Later posts: ribber bind-offs at first, and casting on. I was never quite content with ribbed edgings on my bulky knits. There are always several options for achieving a look that pleases us more, or a technique that will alter the unwanted results. In this instance, one is to knit a row on the main bed after several rows of waste yarn, continue with the body of the garment piece, rehang that first knit row, knit the rib upside down, and bind off. The latter can happen on the machine, by hand, off on waste yarn with a “sewing” needle, or removing the work onto hand knitting needles and going that route. The 260 ribber manual recommends the following method. 
Having the waste yarn U style with an opening on the right with the bind-off beginning on that side, or finding a way to mark the first needle on the ribber in the sequence, may make finding that needle position easier when the knit is off the machine.
This illustration, also from a Brother manual, slightly edited, shows the sequence for how the yarn is threaded through the stitches in numbered sequence according to stitch configuration for the ribbed fabric
Revisiting use of lace patterns Studio vs Brother machines
2011: There are several brand KMs still around and in use, most are no longer being manufactured. Questions often come up on how to use one KM brand pattern card on another. Card readers inside the machine are below eye level, so exterior number/other markings on cards or mylars reflect that, providing the knitter with a visual cue as to where they are in the repeat. If machines pre-select, the needle selection may not bear any relationship to the actual design row on the punched card or mylar as opposed to what one sees. In addition to this variable in lace one often has 2 carriages in use. It is possible to develop cards etc. from lace hand knitting graphs, but there is enough going on so a good place where to start experimenting is with pre-drawn ones. Lace preselection on any single row may have no obvious relationship to where the lace hole will ultimately end up.
Here are some random facts gathered from both sources and experience, they are applicable only if the knit carriage is set for plain knitting and no other function ie. slip or tuck is involved; plain knit rows do not advance the card reading mechanisms. In mixed structure fabrics, the rules change.
The Brother and Toyota lace cards can be used on studio punchcard machines as long as they are patterns which have 2 blank rows after each transfer sequence
Brother and Toyota have u shaped arrows to identify when to knit with the knit carriage, both brands read cards 7 rows down
The first row on Brother is transferred from right to left, while on Toyota it is transferred from left to right; Brother and Toyota cards are interchangeable provided the card is mirrored vertically (or a simple cheat: use carriages on opposite sides of usual)
For Studio knitting find the row number of the U shaped arrow and circle the 2nd and 3d row below that row that number to identify rows in which carriage is changed/set to knit
Brother knitting ends with 2 blank rows
Studio starts with 2 blank rows
on Studio begin brother card by locking card 4 rows before row 1, on row 3
Brother/Knitking lace carriage does not carry yarn, does not knit or trip the row counter; the stitches get transferred in the direction that the lace carriage is being pushed
Studio/Singer has a lace carriage available that transfers as it knits; on more complex laces one is sometimes instructed to set the carriage not to knit for a specified number of rows, the yarn may be removed, other adjustments are often required
though Studio and Brother lace cards are not directly interchangeable; aside from the numbering issue the transfer method is different, so a studio lace card working on a Brother or vice versa is a happy accident and likely to result in different fabric
Brother information is applicable to its new clone, Taitexma
A few references :
Machine Knitting: the Technique of Lace by Kathleen Kinder
Knitting Lace and A Machine Knitter’s guide to Creating Fabrics by Susanna Lewis
Machine Knitting: the Technique of Pattern Card Design by Denise Musk
John Allen’s Treasury of Machine Knitting Stitches
The Harmony Guide to Machine Knitting Stitches (their Colorful Guide to Machine Knitting Stitches does not include lace)
322 Machine Knitting Stitches (Sterling Publishing,1988)
2013 In this instance I am exploring the use of punchcards that are designed for transferring and knitting at the same time as seen in Studio simple lace in machines such as Brother, where the operation is the result of using 2 different carriages.
The studio card used 
the resulting fabric 
The method: both carriages are used to select needles, use lace extension rails on both sides of the machine. Cancel end needle selection on knit carriage underside if possible, or push end needles back manually if needed to avoid their corresponding stitches being transferred throughout the piece. Set up for knitting the pattern as usual, punchcard row 3 (marked in pencil) becomes row 1 of the design when the above card is used in the Brother machine. The arrows always indicate the direction the lace carriage will move across the knit to make transfers in the direction of that same arrow.
- 1. begin pattern knitting with COR, card locked, change knob on KC, no cam buttons in use. This will result in needle selection, but the fabric produced is in stocking stitch. The lace carriage is engaged on the opposite side, and moves toward the knit carriage to make the transfers, as it travels across the bed the now empty needles will once again be in the B position.
2. (lace carriage) travels back to the right and is released off the machine (same needle selection appears, but those needles are now emptied of yarn)
3. COL: KC moves left to right, knitting the single row, all needle hooks are now full, and new needle selection occurs
4. LCOL: makes transfers toward the knit carriage, and then makes a second pass to return to the opposite side and is released.
These 4 steps are repeated throughout the knitting, with the knit carriage knitting and selecting, the lace carriage following its selection to make the required transfers. Not every transfer row will match the direction of the arrows as marked on the studio punchcard.
If there is no pattern needle selection with the KC pass on any row(s), continue to knit until there is needle selection, and begin the process using lace carriage to transfer toward the knit carriage from the opposite side and once again releasing it after its second pass.
A caution: hesitation and reversal in the movement of carriages in Brother machines advances the card in the reader, and results in mistakes in patterning; if errors are to be corrected or such movements need to be made for any reason, it is worth locking the card, checking row numbers, remembering to release the card before continuing, and visually checking pattern after the next knit row.
2013: While working out yet another HK to MK lace pattern, I sorted out the following method for using Studio simple lace on the electronic KM. It is a method that does not work on the Brother punchcard to produce the same fabric, however; on punchcard machines, as either carriage is moved to select from the opposite side of the bed, the card will not advance on the first pass, interrupting selection. I tried a swatch and got a very different lace design; depending on the starting pattern the results may be interesting (do not use elongation), but not the ones intended to match any original.
The knitting samples shown below were knit on a Brother 910. On electronic machines, as seen in previous posts on knitting with 2 carriages, the mylar (or otherwise programmed) repeat advances a row with each pass of the carriage, no matter on which side of the bed the pass originates. Dropped stitches are harder to repair in these fabrics than in patterns for multiple transfer lace (there knitting can be unraveled to the start of a sequence where 2 or more knit rows usually occur), so checking transfers, gate pegs, and adjusting stitch size and weights matter even more. There is no need to mirror the image horizontally if using a mylar; draw repeat as it is on punchcard, all variation buttons down
start knitting with KC (knit carriage) on left, Lace Carriage (LC) on Right program pattern 
double length 
on the first row the LC selects, the next row it will transfer; LC always makes 2 passes first toward the KC, then away from it, even if those 2 rows in repeat have no needle selection. It is then removed from the bed to be returned to the bed on the opposite side after the knit row with KC that follows. In summary:
KC knits a single row to the opposite side
*LC is placed back onto machine opposite the KC to make 2 passes, is removed.
KC follows with a single knit row to the opposite side*. * to* steps are repeated
3 total carriage passes complete one row of knitting.
The preselection is repeated on the empty needles where stitches were just transferred.
The chart below shows actions and placement of carriages 
This sample was knit beginning with lace carriage on left, as can be seen in marked areas, the alternating repeats have a different quality in the sets of transfers marked red vs green
The successful swatch knit beginning with KC on the left, and LC on the right in the method described above 
April 2019 I attempted the same repeat on the 930 with img2track. I mirrored the repeat horizontally and elongated it X 2 prior to knitting it. The arrows in the chart indicate the movement of the lace carriage, beginning with the first preselection row from the left 
I had issues with the proper needles being selected (proofed also in fair isle), but with random stitches not being transferred. A switch in lace carriages, needle retainer bar, yarn, did not eliminate the problem. I finally had to perform some of the transfers by hand. This swatch also shows the joy of missed dropped stitches in lace knitting, the yarn used is a thin acrylic. 
Different year (2023), even thinner yarn, with the image mirrored horizontally on the 930 using the method described above, the new knit proof of concept: 
An interesting method using 2 electronic lace carriages found on youtube. The repeat used in the video is a variation of the one used in my sample above, programmed using img2track. The repeat is mirrored prior to knitting, there are extra knit rows to allow LCs to continue the pattern from alternate sides. The machine being used appears to be a 930. The requirement for mirroring of any pattern may depend on the model of electronic KM used to knit the lace and whether the download appears as drawn on the purl or the knit side of the piece 
A comparison of my repeat using a single LC and the Knitlabo pattern expansion including memo options for use with 2 lace carriages
Studio transfer lace on Brother bulky and standard machines 
Studio multi transfer lace punchcard use on Brother punchcard machines
112, 113 
113 has single rows between repeat segments, requiring added manipulation of the knit carriage
the 24X48 png
On a 930 with img2track use the # 1 variation key with the pattern repeat as shown, or flip horizontally before downloading.
Ayab knitters before the latest software release: mirror repeat, tile repeat width across the number of stitches to match the number of needles to be used in your final piece. There will be no needle selection at the end of each sequence, signaling the need to release the LC, knit one row, and continue with LC brought to the opposite side. This is a very fussy knit. At several points, it is loops formed on previously empty needles that get transferred rather than full stitches. They love to get hung up on gate pegs. It took a significant amount of time to produce a proof of concept swatch. It is a lovely lace. Knitting it on a punchcard would give one the luxury of frequent pauses and markings to make for additional clues
LCOL 9 passes, release
KCOR knit one row to the left
LCOR 7 passes, release
KCOL knit one row to the right
LCOL 5 passes, release
KCOR one row to left
LCOR 3 passes, release
KCOL knit one row to the right
In # 112 there are the standard pairs of rows between transfer segments. The punchcard pattern is composed of two 12-stitch matching vertical repeats, here 1 of the two halves is shown rotated counterclockwise. The additional extra knit rows in the Studio design have been eliminated. If knit as given this overall appearance will be different than that in the swatch pictured in the source. Brother machine knitters would need to track the midpoint location in the design, after the first 50 carriage passes, to place those extra knit rows, making six passes with the knit carriage rather than the standard 2. 
The 12X104 png, on a 930 with img2track remember to use the # 1 variation key 
If one makes a choice or is required to repeat the width of the design to the number of needles used on the needle bed, it is easy to accidentally use the pencil in a paint program when working between windows. This test swatch clearly shows selection errors on a side edge only. 
One way to check the repeat, handy when repeats are much larger or visually confusing: open the faulty one in Gimp, working in RGB mode, select by color and change black pixels to red, and make the white background color transparent by using Layer/Transparency/Color to Alpha. Open a new image, and carefully draw the design in repeat once more in the same location as in the first work window. Copy and paste the red pixels onto the black, revealing the missing pixels and the associated transfers on that edge. Fill red pixels with black, return the image to BW indexed mode, and save the new PNG to knit the piece. 
Redesigned for use on Brother machines with the LC operating from the left and the standard 2 knit rows between each design segment 
the 24X56 png 
knit mirrored horizontally on the 930, using a 2/18 wool 
comparing both versions 
a cousin version executed as a bulky knit
Yet another method, illustrated in Swatches based on adapting random online published repeats
Mesh experiments using thread lace punchcards. This image also illustrates the yarn lines created in the eyelet spaces: a single thread when single rows are knit between repeats and twisted double threads when 2 rows are knit between transfers. 
A later experiment Using StitchWorld #545 
Seaming, joining, picking up stitches on knits 1
This time of year I am usually producing machine knit felt hats for sale, on my 260 Brother bulky KM. They are knit sideways and require seaming on their completion. Photos of some steps in the process, taken a previous year: 
for a sense of scale before felting 
after blocking and drying
My customer handout:
Knitting has traditionally been felted to make it weatherproof, warm, and long-lasting. Examples include Scandinavian mittens, caps, and jerseys, Estonian multicolored jackets, closely-knit felted jackets worn around the North Sea Coast from the 17th century onwards, and knitted and felted Tudor caps.
Wool and hair fibers have microscopic scales, which all point in the same direction, and when such fibers are subjected to heat, moisture, movement, and friction, the fibers will become swollen and soft, and will move against each other in the direction of least resistance. Adjacent scaly surfaces cannot move against one another if the scales on each surface are opposed, and if they are forced to, the scales will lock. Felting is a progressive process that cannot be reversed, only halted.
These hats are knit (or crocheted) in very large, loose stitches. Their shape comes from varying the number of stitches along the surface of the hat, with many more rows on the brim area than on the crown. Most are reversible. In making them, I like to blend many shades of woolen yarn, sometimes adding boucles or mohair. The coloration and stitch structure varies whether viewing the purl or the knit side. The shaping is in the knit.
The large, loosely knit forms are felted by agitation and washing in hot and cold water until the desired shrinkage is obtained. The brim will fold and mold differently depending on whether the hat’s knit or purl side is worn on the outside. No two hats are exactly alike in size or color. They will retain their shape if folded flat and may be cared for as one would care for any fine, washable fabric.
If hand washing: use cool water only, mild soap, do not soak, some molding or blocking may be required.
There is a lot published on methods to graft open stitches using Kitchener. Hand-knit magazines both in Britain and here have begun to present joining a variety of pattern stitches with charts that visually clarify the process. A small portion of such a chart: 
With bulky knits such as my hats, I like to take open stitches onto circulars and sew them together by hand as shown below, beginning on right, and with the knit side facing me.
joining knit ending on waste yarn, purl side facing 
joining knit ending on waste yarn, knit side facing 
joining garter stitch ending in waste yarn 
Diana Sullivan offers youtube videos showing how to join pieces with waste yarn endings with their purl side or knit side facing respectively.
Seam-as-you-knit is an option for joining vertically. It is a technique that may be used to attach bands, parts of a sweater, or strips of knitting, whether for the sake of additional width, changes in color, or attached with purl side facing the knit side if that is the goal. The piece on the machine is always purl side facing. With each row knit, a “loop” is created on the carriage side, while a “knot” is formed on the opposite side as the row is completed. The process then reverses as the carriage returns to its original position. The technique may be done on either, or even both sides at once. The first piece(s) is (are) completed and taken off the machine. Begin the join to piece with the cast on row or waste yarn. For a test, with COR: pick up the first knot or loop on the completed piece. Hang it on the left end needle/ stitch on the cast on work (opposite the carriage). Knit 2 rows. Go to the next knot or loop on the completed piece, place it on the same left side needle/ stitch. You are hanging on the far needle opposite the carriage every 2 rows.
The knit fabric, purl side facing 
A one-eyed tool is inserted from front to back through either a loop or a knot, and hung on the first needle hook/stitch on the right, left, or even both sides of the piece every 2 rows. 
Joining “loops” generally works well in standard gauge knitting. On the bulky, or where a “tighter” seam line is needed, join “knots”.
The same method may be used to join the side edge of any piece of knitting to any portion or location on the one in progress.
When hems need to be hung at the top of a knit or within its body if only one color is used, if long seams are to be joined, or a width needs to be rehung for joining to match its mate, it is helpful to have yarn markers across the row, or periodically along the sides of the pieces at fixed intervals. These illustrations are from the Brother Knitting techniques Book
A block lace pattern on the KM 1
A friend recently posted a forum query on a published pattern that has led to my exploring another hand to machine knit transfer lace. The “flemish block lace” design from the second treasury of knitting patterns by Barbara Walker, p. 270 seemed to be the lace pattern motif used. Here is a partial detail from the fabric that began the discussion
Below is a chart for the Walker repeat produced with Intwined. The repeat is a multiple of 14 + 3 border stitches, the first row is purl, but I could not enter an all purl for row one and not have the remaining symbols altered by the program, which assumes in lace the first row is knit
the program’s generated HK instructions for one repeat plus 3 border stitches 
In attempting the machine knit version I chose to use the HK chart for my transfers as it stood, the directions of the transfers being mirrored vertically did not matter to me.
This design has “chains” traveling along some of the edges of the diagonal shapes. A lot of moving stitches in groups of 2 or 3 is required to achieve the look. It may be possible to achieve the fabric knitting with the aid of a lace carriage, but planning the punchcard or electronic repeat and correcting any dropped stitches pose special challenges. My first samples were knit on the bulky KM, working in width of the 17 sts illustrated above.
I began to test transfers by moving stitches every row. Interesting things happen when single rows are knit on the machine as opposed to the traditional 2 in multiple transfer lace, as well as the resulting shape being half the number of rows long. The eyelet yarn lies single, without the twist usually seen, and begins to look more like ladders (see previous posts on zig zag ladder lace).
knit side
purl side
with 2 knit rows between transfers (the missing eyelet in marked spot is due to operator error) the familiar look of multiple transfer lace appears
below the swatch image is flipped horizontally for a different perspective, approaching the original hand-knit inspiration
looking at charting differently, back to Excel: single repeat
checking alignment, adding border stitches
adding color
checking alignment, adding border stitches
The next consideration might be how to make executing the pattern easier on a standard machine. Needle pre-selection may be used to guide hand transfers. Working out the electronic repeat, represented by black squares:
the transfer directions
the chart in repeat , including borders
There is no transfer on row 3 of the repeat next to border on the chart left, it is omitted in the bottom of the chart, shown on the top half. End needle selection is canceled throughout. The resulting test swatch, one operator error transfer missing on mid left:
knit side 
purl side
One of the issues I encountered during the initial tests was that of occasional needles “sneaking”/ dropping back on the machine, so ladders rather than eyelets were formed. The needle retainer bar is old, and I like to work lace with the ribber off and a tilted main bed, explaining the possible cause.
Ladder lace
The inspiration: part of a magazine photo 
A slightly different approach than in the last post. The tale begins with a hand-knit graph: 
expanded to include alternate rows 
the “graph” paper version 
If a punch card is to be used, all colored squares represent punched holes. I used my 910, Studio mylar for my swatch. The mylar repeat and programmed numbers: 
A png for a single repeat used in the later post: 
The approach in the execution is a bit different from the previous samples. In this instance, colored squares represent the number of stitches to be moved/the number of prongs on the transfer tool to be used.
The pairs of transfers in the chart are made away from each other, orange to the right, and green to the left.
The transfers produce 2 empty needles side by side, they are left in work, as the next row is knit they will produce loops on each needle.
Side-by-side loops do not make stitches, so subsequent rows will continue the ladder.
It is helpful to use yarn that does not split and get caught in hooks, as that may partially knit on the next pass, creating a knit stitch and disrupting the ladder. Also, rows with loops should be checked to make certain they are in the pairs of needle hooks, not off either or both, before the next row of knitting.
Do not release the loops; when the next set of transfers is reached, treat the loop (where circles occur in the graph) as you would a stitch, moving it over on its own prong.
As with transfer lace, it bears taking the time to knit slowly and prevent errors rather than having to attempt “fixing” errors such as runs due to dropped stitches.
The resulting swatch on the standard KM (2/8 wool)
The punchcard: 
The related swatch knit on the 260 bulky KM 
The yarn is an alpaca too thick for the standard. I liked it at tension 1 for stocking stitch, but I had to increase the tension to 3.. to be able to manage the transfers, especially the ones over by 3 stitches X2.
for a sense of the scale difference between the 2 swatches. 
The punchcard was made from a roll purchased directly from Hong Kong, advertised specifically for Brother. The roll is continuous, with separations as seen in the image below. Numbering, however, is for Studio KM systems, so adjustments need to be made for using them on Brother KMs (ie. the first selection row will be row 3 as marked in the punchcard used in the swatch above). 
2022: Sometimes what works well on a small swatch does not in a larger one, or may simply require a different yarn, more attention, and slower knitting speed. The first trial at other yarn content included a yarn perhaps too thin for the effect (green), and one requiring maximum tension making the transfers with loops difficult. Once the initial transfers are made, this loop formation will appear in locations indicated in the chart. A visual check should be made as to whether there is a loop on each needle. If one is skipped, simply lift the yarn onto the hook of the empty needle. 
As the fabric progresses, the loops will appear on the top of the shafts of the selected needles and are treated as one would handle stitches in multiple-stitch lace transfers 
Shown again in the white knit 
After the transfers are made 
A yarn split on the machine may be seen in the center of this image. 
Yarn splits and dropped loops are quite visible in these tests. 
A return to a different 2/8 wool brought better results, again, splits can be identified in the fuzzy spots even if the ladders are formed correctly 
This last swatch was knit in wool rayon. The problem of splitting was eliminated, while dropped stitches were easier to miss 